Demonoid369
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Salem, OR
It's good to know parts can be pieced together. I've already got the 1ton steering but do plan to change the tre out for yours and the updated boots.
Stinky FAB VS. Rusty's Steering/WJ Conversion
- Thread starter hjeepxj
- Start date
It's good to know parts can be pieced together. I've already got the 1ton steering but do plan to change the tre out for yours and the updated boots.
hot_rod_hooligans
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Indianapolis
As you can see, most of my parts are already bought, but I'll be revisiting this mod in a couple years when I get around to my autocross MJ project. After getting the JKS spacers and then having to grind off a bunch of powder coat, I wish I would have went with a different spacer, I definitely would have had I known JKS started powder coating them. I almost pulled the trigger on your Centric rotors until I saw the shipping, shipping was almost half the price of the rotors.
Don't know what shafts those are, that's my buddy's Jeep from when he swapped JK 44s under his TJ, I'll have to ask him.
Last edited:
The way it was worded I wasn't sure if you had actually ordered the parts already, or if you were gathering pieces together still. I can't believe they would powdercoat those spacers though, since they absolutely need to be welded in place. I sure hope they aren't telling people to just bolt them in there.:shiver:
- Location
- Denver, CO
Why on earth would they powder coat their spacers? @stinkyfab you're probably on to something, they probably tell people to bolt them in... 
hot_rod_hooligans
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Indianapolis
Taken from JKS web page: "FAB Steering Knuckle Flange Spacer; Front; Machined spacer repositions hub assembly for WJ knuckle conversion; Fits between bearing/hub assembly and outer steering knuckle; Heavy gauge steel; Black Finish; Weld-on"
I was wondering the same thing when I got them, were they offering them as a "bolt-in" spacer now? I really didn't like that idea so I ground off the powder coat and welded them on. Afterward I got the Amazon page and started reading the reviews, looks like some time in the last year they started powder coating them. Had to go to their page to check and see if they were advertising them as bolt in, or that they were powder coated.
Edit: The shafts are G2, 35 spline
I was wondering the same thing when I got them, were they offering them as a "bolt-in" spacer now? I really didn't like that idea so I ground off the powder coat and welded them on. Afterward I got the Amazon page and started reading the reviews, looks like some time in the last year they started powder coating them. Had to go to their page to check and see if they were advertising them as bolt in, or that they were powder coated.
Edit: The shafts are G2, 35 spline
- Location
- In a strange land
It is nice to see that JKS finally got around to updating their description of those spacers.
I have probably deleted it all, but I had a series of email exchanges back and forth with them over that issue. The description used to read "bare" while they were shipping black finished.
Between the wrong description, wrong finish for a product to be welded on, and an completely unapologetic response they earned a return of their product and I made my own spacers. And mine fit better than theirs too. They had a really sloppy fit on the unit bearing.
I have probably deleted it all, but I had a series of email exchanges back and forth with them over that issue. The description used to read "bare" while they were shipping black finished.
Between the wrong description, wrong finish for a product to be welded on, and an completely unapologetic response they earned a return of their product and I made my own spacers. And mine fit better than theirs too. They had a really sloppy fit on the unit bearing.
I've never personally handled one of their spacers and I don't know what you consider really sloppy, but I can say that when I did the drawings for ours we had at least half a dozen unit bearings of various brands on the table to measure from and we ended up with about an 8 thousandths spread between them. Seems possible that they made their spacers on the high side of the tolerance and your bearings were on the low end.
Regardless, powdercoating a critical part that MUST be welded on is a very dangerous move. Even in a bolted on application it can cause major issues. Years ago a number of companies were selling high steer arms for D44s and D60s that were powdercoated and a ton of people found out the hard way why that was a bad idea. The coating between the knuckle and the arm would break down from the pressure, causing the arm to then be loose and eventually the studs holding the arm on would shear off. Just what you want in a steering component.
- Location
- Denver, CO
I'm glad to hear a company say this - I've wondered about this for years. :cheers:
- Location
- Thornton, CO
Dallas, how would you recommend clocking the lower TB bracket if the axle is not mocked up under the rig? There may also be an Artec truss in the way.
Last edited:
tow hook
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- western pa
I did my wj steering swap with u pull it knuckles 20$ each calipers 15$ each, brackets 10$ each, jks spacer kit, ruff stuff t.r.es 38$ each x 4 and .5 inch wall dom from a local supplyer for the drag link, tie rod, and track bar 150$ If I recall. rotors, and pads on sale @ advanced auto parts ( i.e. I worked there part time back then), could be cheaper if you did rock auto. the trac bar parts were also ruff stuff. works great, and wasn't a ton of cash. don't for get to buy an angle finder or 2. and I had a artec truss as well. to bad I can't post up a pic from my pc. i'd be happy to do it. if I could
tow hook
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- western pa
oh ya, you'll need a reamer too, or u can go cheaper by buying the inserts with the proper taper for one tons @ daves off road supply for 6$ each. you will need to drill your knuckles with a 1" bit
my set up
my set up
Last edited:
- Location
- Lafayette, CA
Can one use stock steering on a HP D30 if you do the WJ knuckle swap?
For a street Jeep it just doesnt make sense to do a steering upgrade at this time.
For a street Jeep it just doesnt make sense to do a steering upgrade at this time.
- Location
- Denver, CO
Not sure why you couldn't unless you ream out the knuckles like you need to for the bigger TRE's.
The XJ that is the subject of this thread will not be a street Jeep when finished. :guitar:
tow hook
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- western pa
tow hook
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- western pa
you could ream out the stock 30 knuckes, and taper them to a 1 ton set up, and buy the t.r.e. and tube from ruff stuff. and keep the stock steering style. other places offer the 1 ton steering as well, pre welded and bolt on minus the reamer part.
https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/1TS-UTK.html
the brakes make the upgrade worth wild for me
Last edited:
I've heard of people running stock steering with WJ knuckles just don't use the draglink knuckle arm and run it all under the tie rod arm if that makes since.
VAhasnoWAVES
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lake City, Mi
- Location
- San Diego
but that would be idiotic.
to start you'll have bump steer because the WJ lower steering arm sits lower than an XJ
you'll also have even worse clearance on the tie-rod because of this.
50% of doing the WJ upgrade is to improve the steering angles and trackbar angle on a lifted rig.
not worth doing without the steering.
to start you'll have bump steer because the WJ lower steering arm sits lower than an XJ
you'll also have even worse clearance on the tie-rod because of this.
50% of doing the WJ upgrade is to improve the steering angles and trackbar angle on a lifted rig.
not worth doing without the steering.
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
That's not true! I just did this and the tie rod is in the same location.
- Location
- San Diego
no it isn't.
