Steering Gearbox

[Cruzin Illusion]

My steering gearbox is loose and I am looking to replace it. Any suggestions on which type of gerbox to replace it with? Stock? AGR?

 

[Roll-over]

did you try adjusting it?

 

[Cruzin Illusion]

I was told that the Jeep Gearboxes where not adjustable

 

[Roll-over]

On my '90 I have adjusted the worm gear meshload to compensate for wear. Just use the adjuster screw on the sector shaft cover. The box on mine was ready for replacement but I needed another month or two out of it... that was about 15000 miles ago. hth

 

[nate]

You can't just adjust that top screw if you want to do an adjustment. That will just mess up the box even more.

PSC 621MR box is around $325. That's what I run. I love it.

 

[Roll-over]

...from the FSM...

MESHLOAD ADJUSTMENT​

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1) Rotate steering wheel from stop-to-stop, noting the number of revolutions. Rotate steering wheel back to the center position.​

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2) Ensure sector shaft cover bolts are tightened to specification. Using an INCH lb. torque wrench, measure highest torque required to rotate steering wheel back and forth through the center position. Meshload must be adjusted if not within specification. See the MESHLOAD SPECIFICATIONS table.​

MESHLOAD SPECIFICATIONS TABLE​

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Application INCH Lbs. (N.m)
Cherokee, Comanche & Wrangler .......... (1) 4-10 (.5-1.1)
1) - In excess of worm bearing preload. Maximum preload is
18 INCH lbs. (2.0 N.m) on Jeep models or 16 INCH lbs.
(1.8 N.m) on all others.
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3) Loosen sector shaft adjuster screw lock nut. Adjust sector shaft adjuster screw to obtain correct reading. Tighten lock nut to specification while holding adjusting screw.

4) Reverse removal procedures for components removed. Ensure reference mark is aligned on pitman arm and sector shaft. Tighten pitman arm retaining nut to specification. On Jeep models, stake pitman arm retaining nut in 2 places.

In my case the worm gear was worn... after "reloading" it the effects were so good that I cleaned and repacked the box and 15000 mi later it's still good. Either way your advice of "don't risk breaking the broken one" seems a little on the funny side.

ps... If I'm wrong on this, let the flaming begin...
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[JaysXJ]

Uh Ohhhh, Your gonna get in trouble for posting FSM quotes!!!

 

[Roll-over]

Uh Ohhhh, Your gonna get in trouble for posting FSM quotes!!!

:gag::laugh3:

 

[sgtmack]

Adjusting the gear mesh at center will probably make things worse. The problem is the gears wear more in the center, so if you remove the play when centered, it will be too tight when turned. If it's worn out, replace it. A stock style replacment isn't terribly expensive, or a used one is cheap.

 

[Eagle]

Adjusting the gear mesh at center will probably make things worse. The problem is the gears wear more in the center, so if you remove the play when centered, it will be too tight when turned. If it's worn out, replace it. A stock style replacment isn't terribly expensive, or a used one is cheap.

Incorrect.

The box has less play over-center than off-center. If it is to be adjusted, the adjustment must be done with the steering box centered.

It is adjustable, as the quote from the service manual indicates. What that left out, however, is the rest of the chapter on adjusting the box. The over-center lash adjustment is only supposed to be done after the worm bearing pre-load has been set to spec, and that can only be done with the box out of the vehicle.

I have made minor adjustments to them using the over-center lash screw without checking the worm bearing pre-load. You should be careful not to go crazy and try to remove ALL looseness. The key is to take out almost all the free play as the shaft goes back and forth across the center position, but not to intoroduce any preload on the worm screw.

If the box is badly worn, you'll know it quickly enough because you'll tighten the screw down all the way and still have free play over-center. In that case, just replace the box. The comment about why worry about breaking a box that's broken would apply in this situation.

As for replacements, if needed, IMHO AGR boxes are grossly over-priced and lack quality control. I know two people who have bought them, and in both cases they arrived completely out of spec. One was much too loose -- to the point it was almost impossible to stay in one lane on the highway -- and the other was overtight and would have worn out very quickly if not adjusted. I also don't much care for their selection of ratios. The stock steering box is a fixed ratio of 14:1. Put in one of AGR's variable ratio boxes and you'll get 17:1 when going straight, which means you'll have to concentrate a lot more to keep going straight on the highway. I think their other offering for the XJ is 16:1, which I think is just too slow. Fine for low speed in a trail-only rig, but lousy for the street.

 

[Cruzin Illusion]

Thanks Eagle. Its nice to here about someone who has experience with the AGR. It seems not to many people run them. I figure it is due to the cost. I probably will go with a remanufactured gearbox. The price of a new gearbox is outrageous.

 

[Eagle]

I have seen good reports about a company called West Texas Off-Road for steering boxes. I haven't dealt with them myself.

 

[XJ_ranger]

I have seen good reports about a company called West Texas Off-Road for steering boxes. I haven't dealt with them myself.

home of the redneck hydro assist!

 

[flexj]

PSC has very good products and customer support. Tom is very knowedgable and extremely helpful even when asked dumb questions(who me, couldn't be) 817-270-0102

 

[XJcrazy]

Im going through the same problem with mine right now. My local guys wont even sell me an AGR. They say its garbage. Thats coming from one of the largest companys in the country.