Started the Front HP Dana 60

Scrappy said:

I think it needs 17s, the housing needs to be swapped and I would still need a third member.

That would be a lot of $$$
 
fishinghookai6.jpg

xtrastrongiy4.jpg

sinkersn8.jpg
 
You guys aren't "worried" about the welded knuckle and "C"?

I dunno, can't get my head wrapped around that for some reason.
 
cracker said:
I think it needs 17s, the housing needs to be swapped and I would still need a third member.

That would be a lot of $$$

Since it was setup for mid engine, once you flip the housing (drivers drop) the 3rd will be correct. Then it's a simple matter of cutting off & flipping the inners.

I was close to making an offer on it a couple weeks ago, but Garry talked me out of it.

Not to mention, with CTM stubs & Ujoints, & Yukon inners, it doesn't have balanced axles:laugh:

Paul
 
He says 15s will work. I want to know how those knuckles come off. I don't think cutting and wacking at it with a sledge will work on those things but we'll see.

Thenall I would need is a True Hi 9 :shocked:

-Avery
 
Root Moose said:
You guys aren't "worried" about the welded knuckle and "C"?

I dunno, can't get my head wrapped around that for some reason.


Trophy trucks and Class 1 buggies run similar knuckles with no problems, and they beat the crap out of them. As long as they are well built, which the Spidertrax knuckles look like they are, there shouldn't ever be a problem.

Has anyone run across the diameter of a 33 spline Dodge stub shaft?
 
Goatman said:
Has anyone run across the diameter of a 33 spline Dodge stub shaft?


Rich, 33 spline axles have a major diameter of 1.41".

According to the old SAE handbook, all modern axles are known as 24-pitch. If the shaft had a 1-inch circular pitch diameter (the mid-point between the major and minor diameters), it would exhibit exactly 24 splines (or teeth). The distance between the centerline of adjacent splines remains constant, so as the diameter of the shaft increases, so does spline count. For examle, a 35-spline axle has a major diameter of 1,500 inches; a 40-spline axle is 1.708 inches in diameter.
 
I'm wondering how the strength compares between my 33 spline Tera/Dutchman stub and a 35 spline Spicer. I'm thinking it should be about the same in the splines, but should be stronger in the yokes. Since I'm sticking to 37" tires for now, I'm hoping it will be pretty bullet proof................... :)

I just have to get used to that damn air locker. :D
 
You can plug in the spline count values into Moser's calculator and then subtract the value of the lower quality Spicer stub. Generally, the induction hardened 1541h stubs are 15% stronger than OEM stuff. 4340 will be much more, maybe 30% (that's a WAG).
 
Looks like there is about a 15% difference in strength between 33 and 35 splines, so if the better alloy shafts are 15% stronger than Spicers, my 33 spline stubs are equal strength to a 35 spline Spicer. The yokes are still stronger, which helps eliminate yoke/u-joint failure, those yokes are beefy looking.

BTW, what's the spline pitch of our 19 spline, 1.23" diameter D44 stubs? :D
 
Goatman said:
Looks like there is about a 15% difference in strength between 33 and 35 splines, so if the better alloy shafts are 15% stronger than Spicers, my 33 spline stubs are equal strength to a 35 spline Spicer. The yokes are still stronger, which helps eliminate yoke/u-joint failure, those yokes are beefy looking.

BTW, what's the spline pitch of our 19 spline, 1.23" diameter D44 stubs? :D


Is that front 60 you have built with Dodge unit bearings? How else did you get 33 spline stubs?
 
Goatman said:
I'm wondering how the strength compares between my 33 spline Tera/Dutchman stub and a 35 spline Spicer. I'm thinking it should be about the same in the splines, but should be stronger in the yokes. Since I'm sticking to 37" tires for now, I'm hoping it will be pretty bullet proof................... :)

I just have to get used to that damn air locker. :D

Just wait for Cracker to get drunk swap 'um out for his 300M stubs.
I'd be happy to help.

Paul
 
Paul S said:
Just wait for Cracker to get drunk swap 'um out for his 300M stubs.
I'd be happy to help.

Paul

That's it, I'm going to start using wheel locks :D

BTW, those 300m shafts were set up for extra turning angle and extra material to strengthen the yolk.
 
CRASH said:
Is that front 60 you have built with Dodge unit bearings? How else did you get 33 spline stubs?

Yup, that's what it is. It's Tera through and through, with Tera knuckles that accept D44 high steer arms, 1/2 ton brakes, and unit bearings. It has Tera 35 spline inner and 33 spline outer axle shafts, and I was told that Tera gets their shafts from Dutchman. No hubs or drive flanges to mess with...........it's like a way over grown XJ D30. :)

Next time I get a spare $1700 I'll think about some 300M CTM stubs and axle joints. :confused1 :looney:
 
Why does Tera have to be so ghey?
 
CRASH said:
Why does Tera have to be so ghey?

Because they're from Utah? :dunno:


I guess the ball joint knuckles aren't so bad, since Currie and Dynatrac also use ball joints. The knuckles are perfectly flat on top, so off the shelf D44 arms are designed to work, while D60 arms are meant for king pin knuckles. The knuckles use 1/2 ton brakes which are prefered for weight and because they'll accept 15" rims. Don't know why they use the Dodge unit bearings rather than Ford, I guess because the Dodge are 33 spline and the Ford are 30 spline......not so bad, unless you spend the extra dough to have the Ford hubs changed to 35 spline and then get the more expensive 35 spline stubs. The knuckles and inner C's themselves are pretty beefy. They do have the option of using Chevy spindles instead of unit bearings, so you can get 35 spline stubs. Overall, I liked the Tera knuckles while I was thinking about building a front D60, a good combination of strength and cost.

I don't have to worry about breaking a hub........ :)
 
Back
Top