Sprintex / Boostec Supercharger Install

[CobraMarty]

Tonight out driving noticed a few things with the hood vent. Driving on the freeway 55-60mph and the water temp was the lowest yet at 195* and the IAT was 95* on a 80* night. When stopped to park there was definitely hot air coming up thru the vent.
It seems that at speed the radiator air is being vented up and there is less under hood pressure so more cool is getting in thru the headlight area. Without the hood vent there is a higher under hood pressure and it is not allowing much air to come in thru the headlight area.
It seem good. I still need to attach some temp probes to the vent and underhood and near the airbox inlet. I will even tie a piece of yard to the vent and hopefully see it stand up.

 

[Redsnake]

Sounds like you're getting where you want to be w/this install and temps. I'd like to see pics from the top/rear of the GT500 hood scoop. Looks pretty cool installed and I'm a HUGE Mustang fan!!

 

[bpas328xi]

Sounds like you're getting where you want to be w/this install and temps. I'd like to see pics from the top/rear of the GT500 hood scoop. Looks pretty cool installed and I'm a HUGE Mustang fan!!

No prob. I'll take a few pics when I get the Jeep back from the shop either later on today or tomorrow.

I'm kinda a Ford fan myself Lol.

Here's my dad and my build on f150online for you to drool over.

http://www.f150online.com/forums/su...ers/459326-powerdyne-s-c-project-98-4-6l.html

This pic still makes me rofl.

http://www.f150online.com/forums/4739849-post43.html

 

[Talyn]

How do you know the O2 sensor sends out a wave.

Because that is how they work?

Maybe on Monday or Wednesday I'll get a video of me playing with the o2 offset, so you can see that I can get in the 12's while idling in closed loop.

Could you do a screen capture of the O2 output (OBDII)?

So why not just let the O2 sensor see rich while under boost and throw a code and CEL. Leave it be and just reset the code before inspection. There is no limp home mode.

If it gets rich enough (AEM telling PCM that the O2 sensor is showing lean) it will attempt to over correct and just dump fuel.

X2. The O2 offset table has worked great for me. In closed loop and in low boost I have a stable 13:1 AFR. It allows for a smooth closed to open loop transition. Open loop I am tuned for 12.5:1. Are you guy's making sure to offset the fuel table as well?

I have tried offsetting the fuel table as well. But in theory you shouldn't have to, only to keep the fuel trims as close to 0 as possible. I can get it to go very lean and very rich and keep on in either direction, but not in between.

 

[CobraMarty]

Has anyone tried Split Second products? AIC or FIC or Enricher?

 

[gradon]

I have experience with Split Second's PSC1-002(fancy map adjuster with a built-in 2 bar map), which is an FTC minus the timing calibration. AIC(additional injector controller) is perfect for the 7th injector, but won't be able to retard timing. The AEM is far superior in that it intercepts the pcm's injector outputs, whereas the FTC&PSC modify the map output. You don't need anything else other than the AEM, but are limiting its capabilities by choosing the 7th injector route over controlling all 6 and not using a 7th.
Chris: Do you want a pic of my lm-2's afrs while in idle with the o2 offset? Or do you want the screen shot of the AEM FIC o2 voltages? I don't have a smart phone or video camera, but my 10 y/o 2mp camera can shoot some video.

 

[CobraMarty]

My issues with the AEM is that it is not very intuitive about how to set the injector pules widths. You get some unknown signal from the ecu and then manipulate it either up or down and then send that signal to the injector not knowing the pulse width and then check the AFR and go back and readjust the injector table.

The Split Second at least the AIC for controlling the 7th inj is more intuitive. You have a map vs rpm table and you write in the pulse width you want. Then check the AFR. But at least you know what pulse width value you are using.

I'm not saying that the AEM won't work, it will but the logic to me is round-about.

But using the AIC then I would still need something to control the timing and modify the O2 sensor signal when it goes rich when under boost.

 

[gradon]

Another beautiful thing about the AEM is you change a cell and it changes the tune immediately. The Split Second, you change a cell(s), then choose the write function, and then have to wait 3 minutes as the software writes the data to the unit. I'm currently having issues with my aem hex file compatability, so I'm trying to get to the bottom of it(have uninstalled/reinstalled/updated version). . .

 

[gradon]

Well I finally connected to the AEM by using the x300.hex. I could've sworn I had used x3.81.hex before. The max offset volts I could use were -.6 to +.6 with setting the narrow band o2 table to a max of 1V(maybe I should try 2V, and then it'll let me offset it more). Anyhow, for a few seconds, inputting -.6(offset mode) would get me down to 12.5afr and then the pcm would slowly add back until it got back up to 14.7. The aem live data o2 voltage wasn't showing a decrease of .6v however. Going over to the fuel table with the offset still set to -.6, by adding 20-30% in the fuel table, the afrs would go down and the pcm would add back. Interesting enough adding .6v changed the afrs to 15.4 w/o the pcm changing/adapting. Maybe I should try a larger/adjustable resistor value and also disco the post cat o2(which happened to show volts above 1v at times), In neutral, in order to zero the trims, at idle/753rpm cell, I pulled -16%, at 1763, -21%, at 2521, -19%, at 2774, -12%, at 3026, -17%, at 3279, -12%. I guess the lt1 injectors rated at 24#@43.5psi and 25.5#@49psi are a bit large for closed loop afrs. I'll do some more tweaking and see what results I can come up with. Oh yeah, 2 aux fans blowing for 10 minutes after I shut her down was enough to drain the battery enough not to be able to start it again. I guess the last time I played in Neutral, I didn't give the pcm enough time to re-adjust, so I apologize to Chris.

 

[CobraMarty]

10 minutes to drain the battery, that shoots down that idea.

 

[gradon]

That just means my battery isn't fully charged/up to par. I was revving it in Neutral for like 20 minutes, starting at idle and slowly going up to 3.5Krpms and zeroing out the fuel trims with the above negative %s., and the temp got to ~220(why I left the fans on when I shut her down). I have yet to install the American Eagle twin 1"core aluminum radiator I bought last year--I have to buy aluminum welding rods and gas for my bro so he can weld the tabs for the 2nd e-fan like he did on the current radiator. I, like many in the know here, swear by the two stock 97+ e-fans(but can only speak for those with ax15s, though I do have a high-comp 4.6 that probably generates more heat than a stock 4.0). You can keep your Taurus and triple-threat set-ups and if one of mine fails, I'll buy a used one at the JY for less than $20(I have a spare).

 

[Talyn]

Interesting enough adding .6v changed the afrs to 15.4 w/o the pcm changing/adapting.

I have found that the PCM will take a while to make it richer if lean, but is just too happy to pull rich back to lean.

I guess the lt1 injectors rated at 24#@43.5psi and 25.5#@49psi are a bit large for closed loop afrs.

A good way to gauge the size of the injectors is to see what the duty cycle is @ WOT. Should be around 80%. You also may want to try to play with the injector dead time in the AEM to see if that changes the idle trims.

What Z file are you running?

 

[gradon]

Z file? I had to flash the FI/C with the x300.hex file in order to connect to it with my Windows 7 laptop. I attempted to update the firmware on my LM-2 and it finished the programming process, but failed the verification process, so now it doesn't work. Apparently I need to use somebody else's laptop and if it fails with theirs, I have to send it to Innovate(lame).

 

[Talyn]

From the AEM manual:

Z files (Handle fueling and firmware):
- Z104.hex: Used on older vehicles where multiple injector pulses are
not present
- Z107.hex: Updated version of Z104.hex, used for Scion TC
- Z110.hex: Used for newer vehicles that have multiple injector
pulses. Faster response time than other hex files.

Don't use Z110.

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

I remember that there was an issue with at least one of the Firmware updates on the F/IC6 right around the time I got my F/IC8. Several folk reported, on the AEM boards, that the F/IC would fail communication.

 

[CobraMarty]

Nothing is easy or simple.

With the supercharger on the Jeep there are a host of things that need to be addressed. Timing and boost timing retard. Fueling insrease by either larger injectors or '7th' injector. O2 sensor, Closed loop/Open loop control to prevent the ecu from leaning out the 6 stock injectors and removing the enrichment.

So what are the choices? Perfect Power, AEM FIC, ChrisTune ecu reprogramming, Split Second?

Perfect Power- the fueling worked but the timing issues was the problem.

AEM FIC- Can control the timing and fuel with the larger 6 injectors, 7th injector a bit difficult to control only 1 burst of fuel per 2 crank rotations, questionable about the O2 sensor control, confusing/non-intuitive tables, only forum support, no good usable programming available.

ChrisTune- can reprogram the ecu for timing issues and fuel if use using the larger 6 injectors, if using the 7th inj need an auxillary injector controller either AEM or SS. Needs to use a 2 bar MAP sensor.

Split Second- Has many different products, have to piece together. O2 enhancer, Aux Injector controller, no separate timing controller, their Fuel/Timing controller will do the timing but the fuel is inc/decr by adjusting the MAP or MAF sensors. Will build a Fuel/TIming Controller that will do the timing and will build it with the Aux Inj Controller in it. Can set it up with true tach signal sensing and then be able to get 1,2,3,or 6 aux injector firings per 2 crank revolutions. This is superior fuel distribution. Still need to control the O2 sensor with their Enhancer. Expensive$$.

Stand Alone ECU- expensive, not OBD or smog legal.

My goal was never to just put this all together right out of the box. The hardware is fine but the electronics is the issue. There are many options, none of which is perfect. Some better than the others. I just want the best timing and fueling control that I can put together. Many things on the burner, and this next week or two will get this resolved.

 

[urban yan]

AEM and a PM to o-g-s. done.
You have it easy; you're just trying to make it difficult on yourself.

 

[gradon]

I'll get to the bottom of what resistor will allow the o2 offset to work on my 96 obd2 without the pcm fighting it and hopefully it'll help you other guys out. Don't expect to get any help on the AEM forums. Bryson should be able to help you with some boost vs timing retard values.

 

[Talyn]

The AEM forums are useless and while their tech support does try to help their ideas didn't work and are inconsistent. One said it will work two others said it wouldn't.

 

[Boostwerks.com]

Nothing is easy or simple.

With the supercharger on the Jeep there are a host of things that need to be addressed. Timing and boost timing retard. Fueling insrease by either larger injectors or '7th' injector. O2 sensor, Closed loop/Open loop control to prevent the ecu from leaning out the 6 stock injectors and removing the enrichment.

So what are the choices? Perfect Power, AEM FIC, ChrisTune ecu reprogramming, Split Second?

Perfect Power- the fueling worked but the timing issues was the problem.

AEM FIC- Can control the timing and fuel with the larger 6 injectors, 7th injector a bit difficult to control only 1 burst of fuel per 2 crank rotations, questionable about the O2 sensor control, confusing/non-intuitive tables, only forum support, no good usable programming available.

ChrisTune- can reprogram the ecu for timing issues and fuel if use using the larger 6 injectors, if using the 7th inj need an auxillary injector controller either AEM or SS. Needs to use a 2 bar MAP sensor.

Split Second- Has many different products, have to piece together. O2 enhancer, Aux Injector controller, no separate timing controller, their Fuel/Timing controller will do the timing but the fuel is inc/decr by adjusting the MAP or MAF sensors. Will build a Fuel/TIming Controller that will do the timing and will build it with the Aux Inj Controller in it. Can set it up with true tach signal sensing and then be able to get 1,2,3,or 6 aux injector firings per 2 crank revolutions. This is superior fuel distribution. Still need to control the O2 sensor with their Enhancer. Expensive$$.

Stand Alone ECU- expensive, not OBD or smog legal.

My goal was never to just put this all together right out of the box. The hardware is fine but the electronics is the issue. There are many options, none of which is perfect. Some better than the others. I just want the best timing and fueling control that I can put together. Many things on the burner, and this next week or two will get this resolved.

The best thing you could do IMHO is get the AEM FIC + 40lb injectors and take it to an authorized AEM tuner near you. There are some very specific steps to take to properly tune a forced induction engine, and it doesn't take much to cause some real damage. This way all you have to worry about is the mechanical side of things and let the tuner do what they do best. Also just watching them tune it for you is a great opportunity to learn and pick up on the steps they take. This is exactly what I did nearly 10 years ago and still reccomend it today. Since then I've taken the intro and advanced tuning courses by EFI101 and still wouldn't mind taking my rig to get tuned by someone who does it professionally everyday. I might feel a little different if I owned a dyno however