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Speaker suggestions?

IMO, the vibrations induced on the speaker cones are not great enought that you could tell a LARGE difference in sound quality...especially when other sounds are thrown in the mix( tires, engine, wind, etc.).

like has been said, you can get tight bass from a good set of components in an enclosure that has enough volume, like the above sound bar. however, by making these 6" or whatever speakers produce bass, the midrange will suffer.

IMO, a good set of components with the lower freq. filtered out with a cut-off of 100 to 175 hz is the way to go. dont cut off too high so you still get some punch, but not too low so that the midrange doesnt degrade and the speaker doesnt move too much.

then send the lower freq to a sub. if youre concerned about size, an 8" bazooka is not too big and gives good bass to fill in the lower freq. you wont be setting off alarms here and they come in powered and non-powered versions so you dont have to get an external amp.

I run an alpine 9833 head unit. alpine amp 75WRMS by 4channels, a set of FOCAL 5.25 polykevlar components in the front, a set of 5.25 Boston acoustics in the rear, and a 10" infinity kappa in a custom bandpass enclosure, and a 1 farad cap to keep the amp really happy.

The head unit runs the rear bostons with 27.5W RMS with the freq cut off at 200hz by control of the head unit. the front focals are on 2 of the channels of the amp @ 75W RMS cut off at 125Hz by control of the head unit, and the sub is powered by the other two amp channels bridged with a cut-off of 150Hz by control of the head unit. sounds clean, not too much bass and the mids are amazing.

There are two types of crossovers( filters) passive and active. Passive crossovers are attached on the high level imput to each speaker and filter out the freq. these consume power going to the speakers and are usually a network of resistors and capacitors and/or inductors. this type can be found in home audio speaker cabinets and are found in the little box that came with the FOCAL components(separate the tweeter freq from the mid freq). Active crossovers are on the low-level side, or in the amp/preamp/headunit and dont use any of the power going to the speakers to function. Active type are nice because you can often control the cutoff freq by turning a dial.

For example, in my alpine head unit, you have control of each channels filtering within the digital menu. you can set each channel to high-pass(for midrange speakers), or to low-pass(for subwoofer). you can set the freq of each cut-off, and the sharpness of each cut-off(2,4,6,12,24 DB/octave). additionally, i could do some of these changes at the external amp, but i choose to have them at my finger tips.

Speakers that are designed for low freq, bass, are usually not good at midrange sound because their cones are too stiff and their not compliant enough. speakers that are "full range" are a compromise and will not last as long with the low freq , large displacement, motions and the sound will become muddy.

my .02
 
For you guys doing audio upgrades, checkout www.partsexpress.com

They have all the pieces at great prices. It is a great source for all types of wiring products.
 
How about "crossover" is that the word you're looking for when you say "filter". That's what it's called a Crossover. It filters out certain frequencies. Many amps have one built in and you can adjust what's filtered. In my opinion just go listen to speakers. Speakers have come a long way since our jeeps were made. I think anything you put in there is going to be an improvement from what's stock. (that is if you have an older XJ)
 
WobblesXJ said:
How about "crossover" is that the word you're looking for when you say "filter". That's what it's called a Crossover. It filters out certain frequencies. Many amps have one built in and you can adjust what's filtered. In my opinion just go listen to speakers. Speakers have come a long way since our jeeps were made. I think anything you put in there is going to be an improvement from what's stock. (that is if you have an older XJ)
There is a difference between filters and crossovers. Big difference. Crossovers seperate frequencies and feed them to the appropriate speakers or amps. In some cases the crossovers step up the higher frequencies by adjusting the slope between the (ex tweeter and midrange) by about 8 octaves or so. Filters do just that, they filter or "block" certain frequncies from reaching the speaker. You are probley refering to the low/ high/ all pass crossover on your amp- provided its not mono. This could be mistaken as a filter but when in low pass mode you have different options and so on like db bass boost or whatever your manufacturers include on their amps. High pass will seperate out the low frequencies. Filters are also associated with sound quality loss, while decent grade crossovers are not.
 
crossovers...filters...whatever you call it. a crossover is a network of filters working together to "cross over" the freq that are allowed to pass to each speaker. a combination of a high pass and a low pass filter is a crossover. for example, the crossovers that come with 2- way components. either way..you loose freq. its weather its done on the low-level or high-level side of the circuit that makes it consume power or not. Filters like in a head unit(or amp), do so at a low voltage and then that loss in power is then compensated for within the unit so that the output stays the same...same power.
if you hook up a low pass filter at the speaker, say a sub, the power going to that speaker is less than the amp is sending it. that is a passive filter as it uses no external source(battery) to compensate for the power it uses to do the filtering.


all in all, just make sure you hook the speakers up in Phase...positive to positive, neg. to neg. on both sides and front to back, or your bass will suffer and itl sound like p@@
 
Yea i would go with Xplods upfront, i have 6"-9"s in my front and 5.5" Kenwoods in the rear, sound quality on my 55w deck is great, only problem is with 6"-9" xplods in the front you have some small friction with the window handle and the 3 way speaker system, but with sound who needs the window down anyway? :)

edit: not unable to close wondow just its a tight fit
 
Holy Cow! There are so many things in this post that are so wrong on soo many levels. Ya know I don't even want to get into it.
BigRedJeepster-- If you don't want to spend alot of money on a new system, but want better sound. Just go to Lowes or home depot, and get a roll of Peal and seal or at HD it is quick seal, from the roofing sections. Take off your door panels and remove the plastic from the door then seal the door inside and out with the peal and seal.
Then do the same with the rear hatch. You will notice a big difference.
If you replace your speaker, Look for a good 6.5 component set and mount them in your front doors, not in the hatch door. When you go to a concert do you sit backwards in you chair? Are your ears angled backwards? No, (at least I hope it's no).
By the way I have been into High end Car audio for the last 17 years.

I have been debating in my head if I should say this or not. why not --Cherokid- PLEASE stop typing! Your replies make me want to smack you. Subwoofers, play a very very important roll in ANY car or home audio system! And for the Record in My 99 Tahoe I have 2 component sets, Soundstream 6.5 SPL and Crystal 6.5's I have done sound sweeps with both sets going down to 40Hz, Flawlessly. I also have two 15 inch Elemental Design B315's. When I listen to my music and it sounds like I am sitting in the front row of a concert, it is great!!
Please go to soundillusions.net or find some audiophile web sites and read about car audio, then come back and spout some truth rather than puke. Crutchfield SUCKS!
Sorry if I sound rude, but when I have been doing car audio and home audio for so long it is like nails on a chalk board, reading some of these Audio posts. That is why I usually never reply to them.
My .02
Ron
 
xplod sounds like crap. Dont waste youre money and go with infinty's. Ive got 4 of em (5 1/4) that i bought at future shop and theyre driven by a kenwood unit. I bought a dynamat kit for my front speaker and it sounds excellent. But if you would like more bass, because infinity is known for its crystal clear sound, go with the rockford fosgate... both are pricey but worth the money.
 
Since some of the above advice is a little cheesy...to learn more about auto sound systems hang out at:

http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi

Just for everyone's info:

In my '89 XJ stock speakers are 5 1/4" - I installed 6 1/2" speakers on the doors.

I got creative and moved them forward as far they would go on the front door for better imaging. I don't know how much it helped, but now after it's all done the system sounds great!

I did have to cut the door's sheet metal and install plywood baffles with holes for the speakers. It was extra work for sure...I kinda always do things the hard way!

I went with - CDT Audio 6-1/2" 3-Way Full-Range Speakers - as the stock Jenson tweeters are really harsh - CDTs are known for smooth sounding tweeters. Your ears won't hurt and bleed after a two hour drive.

I also installed the same CDTs in rear but - in the 5 1/4 inch size. The rear speakers are used more for fill.

I checked out the 6 1/2 inch CDT speakers and they are going for $50.00 a pair. I think I paid about $100.00 for mine.

http://www.thezeb.com/p-CDT-Audio-CL-6X-6-1-2-inch-Full-Range-Speakers-101087.htm

This set looks a touch different then the one I installed but I'm sure they will sound great.

CDT you asked? I never heard of them either until hanging out at the above sound forum. Many people use them. I'm very, very pleased with the CDT speakers.
 
Ron4x4 said:
If you don't want to spend alot of money on a new system, but want better sound. Just go to Lowes or home depot, and get a roll of Peal and seal or at HD it is quick seal, from the roofing sections. Take off your door panels and remove the plastic from the door then seal the door inside and out with the peal and seal.
Then do the same with the rear hatch. You will notice a big difference.

Ron

Is he seriuos about this, i guess it seems like a good idea but what about in the summertime does that stuff get runny and gooey and never come off?
 
xjbmx said:
Is he seriuos about this, i guess it seems like a good idea but what about in the summertime does that stuff get runny and gooey and never come off?
Yes it works, no its not as good as d-mat xtreme or cascade- but anything is better than no dampning at all
-and NO you dont want it to be able to come off, the stronger the bond to the metal, the better it works.
 
xjbmx said:
Is he seriuos about this, i guess it seems like a good idea but what about in the summertime does that stuff get runny and gooey and never come off?

Yes I am Serious, and yes it comes off fine with acetone. And it does not get gooey and runny (at least here in Sacramento, 105 in the summer) I have had it in 6 vehicles so far w/ no problems. I have not had a need to take it off though, except for small places and Nail polish remover works great and does not hurt the paint. It actually works very good for an inexpensive dampener. It is just a cheap way of dampening. D-matt, cascade, and the others are better, but way more expensive. Me being a cheap bastard, and all.
Dampening does make a great big difference though.
-Ron
 
xjbmx said:
Is he seriuos about this, i guess it seems like a good idea but what about in the summertime does that stuff get runny and gooey and never come off?
i agree with this guy. i got gutter linner from home depo, basically exactly what he is discribing and it worked just like dinomat and it was recomended to my by a stereo shop.
 
as far as putting in new speakers i would strongly suggest getting an amp to power them. it makes a world of difference on sound quality and when set up correctly can make your speakers last longer as long as you dont turn it up to where they are distorting. if you are looking for a set of speakers that wont put a huge dent in your wallet but you want good sound quality then get some alpines or infinity's. personally i like MB Quarts and i wouldnt run anything else. also if your upgrading you might as well spend the little bit extra and go with components up front at least because they have better sound quality.

also the two easiest ways to ruin door speakers is by trying to get a lot of bass out of them and turning them up to the point where the deck is putting out a clipped signal. for people that dont know what a clipped signal is, its the point where the deck actually starts putting slight distortion out. this actually happens well before you reach max volume. on panasonic decks it happens at 32 on the volume. pioneer decks where the volume goes up to 40 is the same thing, for the ones that go up to 62 it gets clipped at around 55. pretty much ever deck on the market does this and there isnt a way around it.
 
Ron4x4 said:
, Just go to Lowes or home depot, and get a roll of Peal and seal or at HD it is quick seal, from the roofing sections. Take off your door panels and remove the plastic from the door then seal the door inside and out with the peal and seal.
Then do the same with the rear hatch. You will notice a big difference.
Ron

I went and got some peel and seal at lowes and stuck it inside and out both front doors.For $15 i would recomend anybody do this it helps A LOT. I have a kenwood x579 deck and sony xplod 5 1/4in speakers and it makes my setup really come alive. Now its time to do the back hatch....
 
~jeepin~ said:
Will that work with the back hatch molding. I put a set of 12's in the back now it sounds like a rusted pinto if i turn it up?

yes it works great all around the entire rig. i have it in my doors, on my roof, in my rear quarters, and on my tail gate. it made a world of difference and im running 3 type R 12's with a PG 1200.1 in a ported box and i hardly have any rattles
 
if you build ringed mounting plates for the rear, not only will you be able to fit a much larger speaker, but you will get a tighter seal around the actual speaker. It will improve bass response. you can even silicone glue the speaker down to get as tight a seal as possible for improved response.

Still...nothign will ever outdo actually having a sub.

My vote, however, is for Boston.
 
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