Sound System Install Question

[Rjackson32]

I planning on installing a sub and amp in the rear hatch area of my '98 Cherokee Sport and I need to know the easiest/best way to get the power line into the engine bay. Do I need to drill through the firewall. If so,where is the best place to do so.

 

[kubtastic]

Easiest:
I run power through through the driver's side. I didn't have to disassemble anything - just look at it from both sides and then drill. The factory wiring follows essentially the same path to get inside. Use a grommet and then maybe some duct tape for good measure.

 

[Gridikal]

Duct tape?



Use one of these for best results: Firewall bushing

 

[Rawbrown]

There are a few bushings to choose from. in fact I think there is big one just on the driverside of the tranny tunnel bout halfway up. punch through it with a coat hanger sharpened to a point and fold the back end around the wire. use a little spit or water to lubricate it and it should go through pretty easily.

 

[Rjackson32]

Use one of these for best results: Firewall bushing

Can / How would I use one of these If I brought the wires through the drivers side bushing (the biggest one visible)?

 

[kubtastic]

now you're talking about 2 different bushings. You drill a hole for your own bushing, or just poke a hole through rubber and use a pre-existing one.

 

[01_XJ]

there was a pre-existing grommet on the driver side of my '01 XJ. if you pop the hood and look at the firewall you will see one going in pretty high, which goes into the dash i believe, then there is one a little lower which is the one i used. it was big enough to fit my 4 gauge through there, so check it out. hope that helps

 

[katarn444]

I do not know if I would put the amp in the hatch. The extra weight might cause problems, especially if your struts are on there way out. Also airflow might be a problem. Just a thought.
Katarn

 

[KSXJ]

I ran mine through an existing whole on the driverside. Then followed the door jam to the storage under the rear seat, where I installed my 500w amp. Then stuck the speaker wire through the crack in the back of the seat to the cargo area. So if I ever need to have more cargo area, I just unplug my speaker and I am good to go. Leaving the amp and power still hooked up.

 

[dakotus]

The extra weight of a 6 pound amp?

 

[katarn444]

Yes because it is not really six pounds, it is six pounds at the end of a 4 foot stick which is much different. I am not saying it will not work just saying that the struts will have a harder time opening it and keeping it open, especially in the winter. Go for under the seat.

A side note, my hatch would not open, I took out the two speakers and the interior panel and the thing would fly up. I does not take much to keep the hatch from coming and staying up.

Katarn

 

[Rjackson32]

Why would the amp be at the end of a four foot stick? I dont understand.

Thanks for the ideas guys, keep em comming.

Oh, are you saying that I should mount my amp on the hatch door itself? I was either going to mount it to the back of the seat or under the seat. So no additional weight would be on the hatch itself. There will also be no speakers in the hatch becsaue there are only existing speakers in the sound bar and front doors....Can I put speakers in the door?

 

[KSXJ]

I agree, the hatches have enough problems. But you probably could put some stronger arms. Even though 6lbs isn't much, it is still extra weight on a already flawed design.

As far as a 4 foot stick. Imagine a teeter totter. Now, one side has a shorter board than the other. Put a heavy item on the long part. With you pushing on the short board It will be harder to get it off the ground. Just like it will be harder for the arms to push the extra weight up.

They real quest is, why would you want it on the hatch. It would go up and down with the door. So you would have to have extra speaker wire for the door just to open. Or if you ran it up and around through the hinges, that is extra cost in speaker wire and a ton of extra time for no gain. Just my opinion.

I love mine under the seat. like I said, easy to remove the speakers and it hides the amp away from the unsuspecting thief.

 

[planefixer]

I have my amps, x-overs and EQ under the rear seat.I ran the power cable under the passenger side (most direct route to the battery) door jambs and behind the kick panel.Drilled a hole in the firewall,ran the cable (4 guage) through and installed a rubber grommet at the firewall for protection.My sub box has quick disconnects for when I need more cargo space.

 

[katarn444]

I planning on installing a sub and amp in the rear hatch area

Maybe I misunderstood Rjackson. He is going to put the amp in the cubby hole maybe? I thought he was talking about putting in the hatch itself. dunno

Katarn

 

[Rjackson32]

Maybe I misunderstood Rjackson. He is going to put the amp in the cubby hole maybe? I thought he was talking about putting in the hatch itself. dunno

Katarn

Right, I am either going to mount the amp under the back seat or drill it into the back of the back seat. I am not sure yet. However, for the original question of getting the wires from the engine bay into the cabin, is it better to just poke a hole in one of he pre-exisiting rubber grommets or drill a hole and use a metal gromet from crutchfield like this http://www.crutchfield.com/S-G0o6RsBkyK1/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=710&I=211FWB4&search=firewall

 

[dakotus]

Yea
"in the hatch" doesnt mean "on the hatch door"
Stuff it under the rear seat. I have an amp there and it runs cool all day long.

 

[01XJ75FJ40]

Hello,

Just wondering why all you guys are drilling.....you don't need to. Run the power cable along the bottom of the doors, underneath the trim/molding on the passenger side. When you get to the kick panel you will see the cluster of wires that goes into your door for the power windows/locks. Fish your cable through that and pull the grommet/rubber expandable hose out of the hole (on the outer side of the door) a little and pull the cable through. Then you can fish it inside your front quarter panel between the two sheets of metal. In the engine compartment there is already a hole big enough for it to pull through and leads right to your battery. I have size Ott cable (about as big around as your thumb) and I fit that through. Took be about 10 minutes.

Morgan

 

[01XJ75FJ40]

Oh yeah, you were wondernig about amp, etc placement. I built a sub box for 1 12" sub. I made it shallow but extends the whole width behind the back seat (for appearnace reasons). So the box is only about 12" deep but the width of the jeep inside and is as tall as the back seat so it's flush. In essence the sub is centered in the middle of the box but to either side of it are "dummy cavaties". I placed one amp in each side with computer fans cut into the sides that face the wheel wells to circulate air. One amp is a 500w PPI running all MB Quarts and the other 800w PPI amp is running the 12" and I have never had any overheating issues. The DSP unit and electronic X-over are mounted under the seat where the tire jack and tire iron used to be.

Morgan

 

[Rocker]

I ran my power wires through an existing grommet on the passenger side firewall and then under the front seat and carpet to a 4 way amp (for the speakers) under the drivers side rear seat. Had to do a little depth adjustment w/bfg but works perfectly and doesnt overheat. My sub has its own amp attached to the box. Its power wire follows the same route and then goes over the drivers side rear wheel well and exits under where the oem spare mounts. I used a 15 amp electical plug to connect to the sub amp. I managed to connect the amp turn on lead, ground and power all into the plug. I can unplug the sub and amp as a unit and remove them both when I need more room back there.