so how bad is this?

I still have a set of frame stiffys I'd like to sell....
But I'd still drive it like that, even wheel it (lightly)
My old blue chief, and the red two door have had much worse frame damage than that, and I've still wheeled the piss out of them, while daily driving 500+ miles a week, with no issue. You just want to work toward getting it fixed as soon as it's convenient.
Even my super rusty 2door with cracks on both sides of the frame you can see daylight through has yet to do the "fold like a taco" trick that everyone says will happen if you wheel more than 15 minutes with short arms and a Dana 35....
 
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I still have a set of frame stiffys I'd like to sell....
But I'd still drive it like that, even wheel it (lightly)
My old blue chief, and the red two door have had much worse frame damage than that, and I've still wheeled the piss out of them, while daily driving 500+ miles a week, with no issue. You just want to work toward getting it fixed as soon as it's convenient.
Even my super rusty 2door with cracks on both sides of the frame you can see daylight through has yet to do the "fold like a taco" trick that everyone says will happen if you wheel more than 15 minutes with short arms and a Dana 35....

the difference in your jeeps and his is his entire passenger side suspension is relying on that arm and frame bracket...where as yours have a stock suspension style.

if it were me i would remove it.... hammer back as necessary, add frame stiffys and reinstall
 
the difference in your jeeps and his is his entire passenger side suspension is relying on that arm and frame bracket...where as yours have a stock suspension style.

if it were me i would remove it.... hammer back as necessary, add frame stiffys and reinstall

Im trying to get another cross member from iron rock. I noticed my cross member bent when this happened. Im hoping I can get one under their warranty.
 
256, that does sound like a good plan for the fix.
But I still don't see that it's that dangerous, if the bolts are still tight. I doubt that being a little twisted made it that much more likely to fail, at least without some more serious abuse.
 
Why leave it? Plus the crossmember doesn't look too happy like that.

You need what I just got today.
aquvy7yd.jpg
 
The crossmember and passenger side frame rail are both weakened. Every time you go over a bump they are both moving. When the move in ways they are not designed to move they get even weaker. This needs to be corrected.

From this photo it appears that crossmember is poorly designed. Does it only attach to the OEM bolt holes? It should spread the load out further on both the bottom and side of the frame rails (using through-bolts with anti-crush sleeves).
 
The crossmember and passenger side frame rail are both weakened. Every time you go over a bump they are both moving. When the move in ways they are not designed to move they get even weaker. This needs to be corrected.

From this photo it appears that crossmember is poorly designed. Does it only attach to the OEM bolt holes? It should spread the load out further on both the bottom and side of the frame rails (using through-bolts with anti-crush sleeves).

Yes it does. IRO is sending me a new crossmember and bracket at no charge.
 
Are they also going to fix your frame rail? After all, it was their weak cross member design that caused the damage to your Jeep.

I'd be extremely hesitant to put the same style cross member back on there.
 
Are they also going to fix your frame rail? After all, it was their weak cross member design that caused the damage to your Jeep.

I'd be extremely hesitant to put the same style cross member back on there.


I'm hoping the framerail isn't as bad as I think it is. I haven't had a chance to remove the bracket and xmember yet.
 
Your response wasn't particularly clear. Were ou saying the linked crossmember only bolts up to the four OEM bolts?
 
I bet that "additional" one is the forward boss that the old BA/10 crossmember used.

Not really digging that for LCAs. It really needs that extra bracket inside the frame rail at minimum. See TNT Customs bellypan for reference.
 
I bet that "additional" one is the forward boss that the old BA/10 crossmember used.

Not really digging that for LCAs. It really needs that extra bracket inside the frame rail at minimum. See TNT Customs bellypan for reference.


I completely agree. I think it should at least use some sort of bolts that pass through the frame rail.
 
Your response wasn't particularly clear. Were ou saying the linked crossmember only bolts up to the four OEM bolts?

The brackets bolt to the factory holes, the crossmember bolts to the brackets using two bolts on both sides connecting to the brackets.
 
I know this setup is not particularly popular with a lot of veteran wheelers. It has done well for me up until I landed on a concrete slab at the Wilson County Fair. I don't typically encounter pointed concrete while offroading. In any case I am very pleased with their customer service. Zach emailed me today and let me know the crossmember and bracket will ship out no later than Monday.
 
This is kind of a bad picture but it shows my frame rail is no where near as bad as I though it would be. After i too off the driver side bracket it kinda popped back in place.

20131027_161751_zpsaeea569e.jpg
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I bag on the IRO kits all the time and that is actually a failure I hadn't even expected.
 
you're telling me the entire front suspension is relying on 6 crappy factory nutserts?

what a piece of garbage.

OP sell that crap, plate your uniframe, and buy another kit.
 
If I had the money I probably would but I can't really fork over close to a grand on long arms.
 
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