So Cal desert rats

anyone know if i get 33x12.5x15 tires on 15x8 wheels, will i need spacers?

The back spacing is ??? That is something to consider...

I think you'll rub all over the place... but you might still get the tires... run what you have till the new lift goes on then put the KMs on... I miss mine...
They're going to be at least 3+ years old... maybe 4...
I found a place in the N.W. (Portland) that had 40 32" KMs new, but were old left overs... I think thry buy up old-new tires... they wanted full pop also.

Curt
 
Paul can you do the old indian trick of arching the starter or solenoid ??

Curt


All Done, Thanks! Thought I had a Dr's appointment so I got right on it. But yesterday I found out I don't go in till Sept. 8th.
Got it going a few times like that, but this last time it was done. :skull2:
Had Ma tow Me home in the Chevy:scared:, it was here in the cove. I did get it at NAPA so they gave Me a New One, works Great.:wave1:
 
so... since they are both about the same price, what do you think would be better until i can afford the other: 6.5" lift with 31's or 33's with my current 3.5" lift? Any disadvantages to lifting if first (besides looking funny with small tires)?
 
33's will rub like a bitch.Did this on this wifes jeeps, front wasn't that bad cause i cut them out, but the rear was the big problem.You can bump stop it so you have NO DOWN TRAVEL, oh joy, but it you may as well jump up and down on your A$$ in the street.KNOW what i mean?
We have done a lift before with only 31's on it, yes it was a 6.5 lift.YES it did look funny, but i don't think he cared cause he knew he was buying tires as soon as he could just like you.I would go lift first then buy tires.NO biggie.

But what do i know.LOL.I just beat mine as much as i can.But i have fun doing it.LOL
 
Hey Aaron here is a link you should read, it is about the RC long arms.I love my RC lift so you know i wouldn't just bad mouth cause other people say so.NOT my style.LOL.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1062551
I guess they are having trouble with the joints on the long arms.I also hear on the IROC long arms they're have trouble with the adjuster bending on them.I'll look for that if need be.

yeah, i've heard that they fixed these issues very recently with new joints, also worst case scenario is that i pay $200 to upgrade to Currie joints when these fail. still a good price.

Now... i need to figure out if i want to install a more expensive 242 SYE or find a deal on a 231 to swap in (cant use the 242 Full Time setting with my lockers anyway). anything else i need to consider?

PS. this is happening very soon, probably ordering today.

PSS. Tone, that was me that honked at you on Jefferson earlier, if you didn't see me. :wave1:
 
Aaron if you go with the 231 you can pickup one at the ecology yard in 1000 stumps for $120! I have the RC old short arm 6.5 on mine. It's been in service about 7 yrs. I have had good luck with. I have to change the LCR bushing every two yrs. I would go with long arm! It appears you get more bang for your $$ with there kit!
 
yeah, i've heard that they fixed these issues very recently with new joints, also worst case scenario is that i pay $200 to upgrade to Currie joints when these fail. still a good price.

Now... i need to figure out if i want to install a more expensive 242 SYE or find a deal on a 231 to swap in (cant use the 242 Full Time setting with my lockers anyway). anything else i need to consider?

:wave1:

I know they are talking about adding the better joints to the kit, just don't know if they did it yet.
I use my 242 in full time with my lockers, didn't know or was told i couldn't.
I got room when your ready to do it.
 
All Done, Thanks! Thought I had a Dr's appointment so I got right on it. But yesterday I found out I don't go in till Sept. 8th.
Got it going a few times like that, but this last time it was done. :skull2:
Had Ma tow Me home in the Chevy:scared:, it was here in the cove. I did get it at NAPA so they gave Me a New One, works Great.:wave1:

Cool... :thumbup:

Curt
 
yeah, i've heard that they fixed these issues very recently with new joints, also worst case scenario is that i pay $200 to upgrade to Currie joints when these fail. still a good price.

Aaron... I offer this thought on rod ends... personally I like a grease-able heim...most don't...
Again personally I'm not a big fan of J.Joints... I know TONS of folks have used them and some have issues many don't...
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/johnnyjoints.aspx
John uses snap rings & thicker washers when things get sloppy...

If I were to go in another direction I'd get a end similar to R.E. or Ballistic's...
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Forged-Chromoly-263-Ballistic-Joint_p_1636.html there might be others also...
Washer-less thread in with locking set screws... grease-able... forged chromoly... you adjust the pre-load on the encapsulated ball...

Again just my thoughts... check out the links... see the difference...

Curt
 
I hear you Curt... If money wasn't an object, i would be going a different route. As it is, $1300 to my door for a complete 6.5" long arm kit is right in my ballpark. I can always look at upgrades down the road.
 
Didnt see you Aaron and my radio was up loud so I didn't hear your ass! Was either going or coming from/to home depot to get metal to get metal to make my brackets for the new seats. Thanks Paul for helping out I'm gonna sit my ass off once these are in tomorrow :)
 
I hear you Curt... If money wasn't an object, i would be going a different route. As it is, $1300 to my door for a complete 6.5" long arm kit is right in my ballpark. I can always look at upgrades down the road.

Money isn't and object... :sunshine:
I agree... I was referring to SHOULD you need to replace the ends something like the Ballistic rod end might be another option...

Hopefully you get it soon...

Curt
 
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