Short arm vs Long arm

This is my rig.
702a2a05.jpg

(not my pic)

Have you ran this?

I have, it's grate. Do you know how much pressure is put on the upper? Have you ever see one fail? ( in real life)

enough pressure that thankfully my friends i wheel with arent stupid enough to run it.
 
Oh, we're talking about the IRO long arm kit now?

After my last experience with IRO i won't be buying from them ever again. The extra few bucks for a Serious long arm kit was an easy decision, especially considering that hokey-ass adjuster.
 
Yea, it's Metic 10.9...wait...a metric bolt belongs there...wait...meric 10.9 is more or less the equivalent of a standard grade 8. MoparManiac thinks zinc plated bolts are grade 8 LAWL!!!!!
 
This is my rig.
2aa5a9f1.jpg


fbf0392b.jpg


What's wrong with this?
702a2a05.jpg

(not my pic)

Is it because its different? Anything out of the norm. And you hate it.

Have you ran this?

I have, it's grate. Do you know how much pressure is put on the upper? Have you ever see one fail? ( in real life)

Evidently you haven't run it either!NO dirt/no rust and your in Oregon.:roflmao:
 
for the IRO fanboys... yes people have broken the one UCA bolt. yes some of them have posted about it.

oh and I'm just gonna leave this here
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1055578
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1056597

1.People is plural, both those threads reference the 1 person I referred to in my post.
2. That bolt is not broken, and as I said it looks to me like it was loose.
3. Loosen up your trackbar bolt and wheel it for a while and see how wallowed out that hole will be

You guys don't like the design, don't run it. If it was even 10% as failure prone as you guys post about, there would be more than 1 pic of a sort of failed bracket.
 
Evidently you haven't run it either!NO dirt/no rust and your in Oregon.:roflmao:
evidently YOU are a fawking moron. We dont have rust here.. welcome to the westcoast, where 30 year old domestic vehicles are worth more then 5 year old Imports on the east coast:wave:
 
anyone who has gone from long arms to short with db's? People say short is better, they are cheaper, yet the only people I've seen who have run both currently run long arms. Basic reasoning wins argument IMHO. Tube buggies should just hang their mounts eally low and run short links? As far as the iro caster adjuster, I've beaten that dead horse, but I've seen pics of a failure that looked to me like it wasn't properly tightened. I run that kit on the wife's wj and have had no problems with it.
Most start with short arms and drop brackets and move to long arms because everyone says long arms are better. Those same people aren't likely to spend the money going back unless the long arms are a big step down. Which they aren't. The question is, for easy trails, fire roads, etc, are long arms worth the extra cost? No, not really. Were it my Jeep, I'd probably stay at 30s/31s, lock the axles and get a winch.

Tube buggies vs XJs on the short/long debate don't belong in the same sentence. A full body XJ is limited in places to mount the links and as such no matter what design you get, there will be compromise involved. Buggies have no such constraints and can place the links exactly where they need to be to get the full benefit.
 
If you started with db's, went long arms and didn't like them, why would it cost money to go back? You could sell the long arm kit and make some of your money back.
 
Most start with short arms and drop brackets and move to long arms because everyone says long arms are better.........

That opening line speaks volume....

Back when I started building my Jeep in 1998, there was no such thing as long arms. Crap, a 3 inch lift and 33's was all the rage. A larger lift and 35's would put you in a monster truck category back then.

Controls arm upgrades over the stock pressed metal ones was also all the rage in 1998. Drop brackets soon evolved and were the cat's meow.

I bought some RE control arms as one of my first true up grades back then. Overtime I added the drop brackets. Years later long arms evolved. But for my type of mild wheeling, I couldn't bring myself to ditching my drop brackets, for what little gain or benefit I would get from long arms....plus I'm money ahead....
 
1.People is plural, both those threads reference the 1 person I referred to in my post.
2. That bolt is not broken, and as I said it looks to me like it was loose.
3. Loosen up your trackbar bolt and wheel it for a while and see how wallowed out that hole will be

You guys don't like the design, don't run it. If it was even 10% as failure prone as you guys post about, there would be more than 1 pic of a sort of failed bracket.
dude, gimme a freakin break. Yes, it's the same guy in both those threads. No, he is not the only one who has had it happen... and it was a separate failure example, I gave two, one of broken bolts and one of that stupid adjuster bending. You know what happens when you try and tighten a bolt down on a big piece of sheetmetal with a slot down it next to the edge? The two sides of the slot spread apart and the bolt loses tension because it doesn't have jack shit for the bottom of the head to press against. You can kinda half ass it by putting a washer in between, but the fundamental flaw is still there.

Wait, why the hell am I bothering to argue with you? You are an IRO fanboy. Unless you drop some engineering knowledge I should just assume you have no grasp of physics, logic, or mechanical design and let you run that hokey junk till it either breaks or you decide to sell your mall crawler. My bad.
 
If you started with db's, went long arms and didn't like them, why would it cost money to go back? You could sell the long arm kit and make some of your money back.

Because you cut off the factory lca brackets so that your long arm isn't hitting it... Once u go long arm it's a lil harder to go back to stock.
 
If you started with db's, went long arms and didn't like them, why would it cost money to go back? You could sell the long arm kit and make some of your money back.
Raise your hand if you keep your old parts after upgrading.

I know I don't unless it can be used as a spare. And as Maxx pointed out, most long arm kits have you cut your stock mounts off. Even if you don't have to, most would anyways to eliminate the extra snag point.
 
You gave 2 examples, claiming people have posted about both, yet linked 2 threads about the same guy? Claiming examples and actually having them are 2 different things. My xj runs re radius arms, the wife runs the iro setup on her wj. We've run trails like slick rock, deer valley, and the rubicon with no problems with the caster adjuster that fails everyone else(or at least the 1 guy you iro haters use as your example)? Must just be luck. Use your computer engineering and Internet bs to convince someone else that it doesn't work and falls apart. I've seen it put to the test, and it's held up fine. Not a fanboy, just someone with real world experience and no problem with the product. See you at the mall.
 
I gave two examples of how it can fail... one breaking bolts, one bending the adjuster. This is not difficult to understand unless you have severe reading comprehension issues.

yes, I only gave evidence for one (the adjuster bending.)

I brought no computer engineering into this, because there are no computers involved. Perhaps you should reread my post, I said physics and mechanical design.
 
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