Short arm vs Long arm

[TRCM]

What is a mid arm ? tied searching, but got nothing.

 

[Darky]

I've hit my long arms but never been stopped by them. Doing it over again, I might go short arms and DBs just because they're easier to install...

For your use, I'd go short arms with DBs. Less expensive, equal performance for your needs, less modification done to the rig, meaning you can return to stock if wanted/needed in the future, easier to swap to another rig if this one gets wrecked, whatever.

 

[Mike1331]

I've hit my long arms but never been stopped by them. Doing it over again, I might go short arms and DBs just because they're easier to install...

For your use, I'd go short arms with DBs. Less expensive, equal performance for your needs, less modification done to the rig, meaning you can return to stock if wanted/needed in the future, easier to swap to another rig if this one gets wrecked, whatever.

not to mention ease of tranny maint. I'd hate to have to pull my crossmember and arms off just to change my tranny oil/filter. eff that noise...carry on

 

[Begster]

I have always liked my drop brackets, they give a great ride on road and flex a lot offroad. But, in the past few years, I wish I could say I've never gotten stuck on my drop brackets.

I wish I could say I wasn't stuck on this rock for 20 minutes because all I could do was pivot on my DB.

I wish I could say this rock didn't lift my entire drivers side off the ground, and almost put my Jeep on its side.

And I've had other times, just not as good pictures.


I'm one of the friend's MoparManiac was talking about. Had I been going faster the 1st time, I wouldn't have gotten stuck. Had I been going faster the 2nd time, I would have been on my side.

not to mention ease of tranny maint. I'd hate to have to pull my crossmember and arms off just to change my tranny oil/filter. eff that noise...carry on

Ya because its not like you could change the tranny filter/fluid while you're installing the long arm crossmember, and like never have to change it again...Because that wouldn't be logical...

 

[xjtrailrider]

Begster, do you think a skid under the DB would have let you slid off the rock easier?

I guess I've been lucky, I wheel terrain just like you are on and I crawl. I'm in no hurry when I wheel.

 

[NCCherokee]

There are a lot of people who will tell you to do it right the first time, and go straight to the 4.5" lift and longarms. Sometimes its good advice, sometimes not. Not knowing your wheeling background, i know that when i lifted my jeep, I could have easily built it to be more capable than my driving ability, so i started shortarms, stock axles, and 3.5" lift.

The upgrading process is a learning process. In my opinion, the whole "do it once argument" really only applies if you just bought a cherokee chassis, and are going straight to tons, custom triangulated 4 links, lockers, tubework, hydro, etc. otherwise, I think that going through the steps of upgrading your rig can really teach you a lot about how the components work, not to mention wrenching is fun.

If this isn't your first rodeo, and you have some seat time, go ahead with the 4.5" lift and longarms. That said, in a year, you'll be wanting to build a custom 3 or 4 link rather than something off the shelf. Good luck.

 

[Mike1331]

I have always liked my drop brackets, they give a great ride on road and flex a lot offroad. But, in the past few years, I wish I could say I've never gotten stuck on my drop brackets.

I wish I could say I wasn't stuck on this rock for 20 minutes because all I could do was pivot on my DB.

I wish I could say this rock didn't lift my entire drivers side off the ground, and almost put my Jeep on its side.

And I've had other times, just not as good pictures.


I'm one of the friend's MoparManiac was talking about. Had I been going faster the 1st time, I wouldn't have gotten stuck. Had I been going faster the 2nd time, I would have been on my side.



Ya because its not like you could change the tranny filter/fluid while you're installing the long arm crossmember, and like never have to change it again...Because that wouldn't be logical...

that looks like an idiotic line for your tire size. Long arms would have most likely gotten hung up on that ledge as well.

And changing your tranny fluid only once in god knows how many miles sounds highly illogical. you fail

 

[Porch951]

For me it was a pretty simple calculation:

Upper/lower short arms:
~$300-350 for decent adjustable ones
$200-300 for drop brackets
---------------
$500-600 for a good short arm setup with drop brackets

versus...
$750 for Serious Offroad long arms, minus an discount

It seemed like the extra price was worth paying, especially considering the teraflex joints and all that.

 

[ROBZ95Xj]

that looks like an idiotic line for your tire size. Long arms would have most likely gotten hung up on that ledge as well.

And changing your tranny fluid only once in god knows how many miles sounds highly illogical. you fail

so your saying with 33's not to do any of the fun lines? dosnt matter what lines to take rocks move, and as being one who has ran them trails, long arms would have easily slid over

 

[MoparManiac]

that looks like an idiotic line for your tire size. Long arms would have most likely gotten hung up on that ledge as well.

And changing your tranny fluid only once in god knows how many miles sounds highly illogical. you fail

You weren't there, as we all know pics don't always show the whole story.

I changed my trans fluid once every 75k miles and the thing was still shifting like new with 300k on it.

You failed hardcore.

 

[Begster]

Begster, do you think a skid under the DB would have let you slid off the rock easier?

I guess I've been lucky, I wheel terrain just like you are on and I crawl. I'm in no hurry when I wheel.

Which rock? The first one I don't think so, it just was holding me up on that side, I eventually was able to drive myself off it. Skid might have just provided a little big smoother surface to slide on, but who knows how much it would have helped.
It wouldn't the second time, which was a little weird. The rock edge actually got caught in the DB, and as I drove forward, it rolled the entire rock over and lifted the vehicle up. It was weird.

that looks like an idiotic line for your tire size. Long arms would have most likely gotten hung up on that ledge as well.

And changing your tranny fluid only once in god knows how many miles sounds highly illogical. you fail

Really, being on 33" tires (which how do you know the tire size?) and being able to make it up lines that a wrangler on 36's rolled over on right before me, or making it up a large rock face hill climb 1st try after an XJ on 35's tried for 1/2 hour and couldn't make it up first before me, and then when another buddy with 40" tires backed down, is idiotic? Geeze, I guess I don't know how to wheel then?

And read above for mention of the "ledge." The rock rolled over underneath the DB, and that is why the Jeep was lifted up on it. It was just a regular rock sitting in the ground like all the ones around it before.

Yes, the tens of thousands of miles needed between services is just staggering.

 

[TRCM]

There are a lot of people who will tell you to do it right the first time, and go straight to the 4.5" lift and longarms. Sometimes its good advice, sometimes not. Not knowing your wheeling background, i know that when i lifted my jeep, I could have easily built it to be more capable than my driving ability, so i started shortarms, stock axles, and 3.5" lift.

The upgrading process is a learning process. In my opinion, the whole "do it once argument" really only applies if you just bought a cherokee chassis, and are going straight to tons, custom triangulated 4 links, lockers, tubework, hydro, etc. otherwise, I think that going through the steps of upgrading your rig can really teach you a lot about how the components work, not to mention wrenching is fun.

If this isn't your first rodeo, and you have some seat time, go ahead with the 4.5" lift and longarms. That said, in a year, you'll be wanting to build a custom 3 or 4 link rather than something off the shelf. Good luck.

Been wheeling for 30+ years in various terrain. Drove a locked & loaded 450 hp dodge ramcharger on 40's for 13+ years thru everything from the mud pits @ Dennis Andersons place to the rocks @ Uhwarrie.

Been wheeling this jeep on 30's for the past 6 yrs while hunting with just a 2" BB style lift, and haven't had any real issues, but am starting to really miss the go anywhere abilities of more clearance and larger tires (getting old & would rather drive 1/2 mile across the stuff than walk thru it). I have even gotten a few guys in my hunting club looking at jeeps after having seen where I can take this one easily.

Just trying to avoid doing something then 6 months later wishing I had gone the other route. This is NOT a DD, and sees maybe 3000 miles per year, of which ~ 50% is off road, only because the trip there and back is over 200 miles.

As I said before in this post, the $$ difference right now to go 4.5" is less than $100 once I get the stuff needed for either method. If I go with the RC DBs instead of RE, and non-Bilstein shocks, the diff is maybe 300 bucks.

 

[rweaver138]

Heres my contribution: Do it once, get long arms and be done with it. Everyone who has short arms with drop brackets wishes they had long arms (whether they want to admit or not)

And here's my obligatory stuck on DB picture

 

[MaxxXJ]

Just thought I'd throw this out there... If you go iron rock Offroad you can keep your stock lca brackets and they are 100% bolt in long arms

 

[Mike1331]

Which rock? The first one I don't think so, it just was holding me up on that side, I eventually was able to drive myself off it. Skid might have just provided a little big smoother surface to slide on, but who knows how much it would have helped.
It wouldn't the second time, which was a little weird. The rock edge actually got caught in the DB, and as I drove forward, it rolled the entire rock over and lifted the vehicle up. It was weird.


Really, being on 33" tires (which how do you know the tire size?) and being able to make it up lines that a wrangler on 36's rolled over on right before me, or making it up a large rock face hill climb 1st try after an XJ on 35's tried for 1/2 hour and couldn't make it up first before me, and then when another buddy with 40" tires backed down, is idiotic? Geeze, I guess I don't know how to wheel then?

And read above for mention of the "ledge." The rock rolled over underneath the DB, and that is why the Jeep was lifted up on it. It was just a regular rock sitting in the ground like all the ones around it before.

Yes, the tens of thousands of miles needed between services is just staggering.

put your peter meter away dude as i don't give a damn what you've done that others haven't. And you said, "NEVER" and now reverting back to tens of thousands, which now becomes logical.

I'm not going to get in an LA vs short argument with you, we all know there's pros and cons to each and each require a different driving style.

For the op this just might be an easier and all around decent route.

And whoever pays almost 700 for short arms and DB's needs to check the classifieds a little more often as that's just foolish.

 

[Ronbo]

I was looking at a slew of Jeepspeed photos here the other day and noticed something. All these awesome race XJ's were breaking all the internet rules. DB's or radius arms out there competing and winning. Then I noticed that none of those guys e-argue on . They're just out there getting it done. Probably a good lesson in there somewhere.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

I was looking at a slew of Jeepspeed photos here the other day and noticed something. All these awesome race XJ's were breaking all the internet rules. DB's or radius arms out there competing and winning. Then I noticed that none of those guys e-argue on . They're just out there getting it done. Probably a good lesson in there somewhere.

probably not.

kidding...

but those guys dont have as many concerns for ground clearance. one example, the under axle truss. its a whole different can of worms not worth mentioning.





im surprised all these web wheelers havent made a before and after analysis. something like RTA score before and after DB removal/LA install. i doubt you would see a ton of difference. then it comes down to what is more cost effective (necessary?) considering the users conditions and needs.

 

[OutkastBoss]

I'm shure I'm just a blisfully ignorant noob but really anything over 3 or 3.5" (is that what was said ?) and you need d.b's or L..A's to not ride like absolute trash??

I guess I may get flamed for this but my 4.5" short arm seems to ride way better than stock and I D.D.
I am going to trim to 33's and don't feel the need for the d.b.'s (at least for ride quality)

but maybe I'm blissfully ignorant? It rides nice to me

 

[mini=man]

Wheeling isn't all about flex. Stability and clearance are bigger issues. No matter what you run, if it hangs down its going to get hit on something. Get over your egos and put away your massive e-penis. You can get hung up on both, but a long arm will act as a slider before it hits it's hang up point.

With that said, I would go long arms. I hate my short arms. It's like using a hatchet to cut down a tree, sure it works and some people may like how it does it, but it's crude and not really the right tool for the job. I didn't spend the money on DB because i see how they hang up in the area's I wheel so I want something better for my rig.

 

[commsys]

Upgraded to the Iron Rock Offroad long arm kit about a year or so ago. Still get giddy over the how well it flexes every time out, so it was worth it. Also, the ride is good. Upgrade,and never look back.