Seaforam works magic.

I just seafoamed mine last night and it was quite impressive seeing all the smoke :) .
I poured about 2/3 of the bottle in the gas tank and the remaining 1/3 directly in to the carb.
Seems like it has better acceleration today and idles a lot smoother (but then again; that might just be wishful thinking).
 
I mentioned this stuff to my dad last night and he said they used to use ATF in the same manner and got very similar results back in the day... anyone else tried this?
 
ert01 said:
I mentioned this stuff to my dad last night and he said they used to use ATF in the same manner and got very similar results back in the day... anyone else tried this?
They used to use ATF or straight kerosene in the crankcase just before an oil change. Worked at a neighbors gas station when I was in HS and he bought alot of dodge and plymouth's with the slant 6's in them that had blown motors. He'd buy the motors out of wrecks and boneyards then put them in, dump whatever was handy, atf or kero, run em for about 20 minutes and then dump the oil and filter, new oil and filter then sell the car out front. While it was running Jess, his mechanic, would listen to it and when it started making a different sound he'd stall it with a hand over the carb.
 
Quoting a post that i read on MADXJ a while back. this thread was talking about freeing stuck lifters and cleaning out engines.

mike mueller said:
Good ole ATF. I remember years ago people pouring a qt right
down the carb on a running engine to clean up the valves. It
would pour out a ton of smoek, but afterwards the engines
run much better.
ATF is for the most part SAE 10 oil with alot of detergents
and dispersants in it. I used to do the 'mega' oil change
routine whenever I got something new:
#1 4 qts oil, 1 qt kerosene, & filter for 15 minutes.
Kerosene is the prime ingredient in most engine flushes, and
breaks up alot of the crap inside
#2 4 qts oil, 1 qt ATF & filter for another 15 minutes. The
ATF would mostly be used to get any remnants from #1 into
suspension
#3 Regular oil & filter change


-Tim
 
SCW said:
??? What the hell are you talking about?

Because of the large amount of dissolved oxygen in water it can actually compress a little bit. Not enough for most people to measure, but it does. Oil cannot compress, which is why it is used in hydaulic rams, etc.

I really don't think this has anything to do with hydrolocking. You can even spray a little water down the TB and cause the temps in the combustion chamber to climb, burning off a lot of crap. Water injection is somewhat common especially in military vehicles, but it doesn't mean you drown the engine in water and lock it up.

I'm no expert (ask anyone) but I think you gets hydrolock because water don't burn like gas does.
 
Fish'nCarz said:
I'm no expert (ask anyone) but I think you gets hydrolock because water don't burn like gas does.

i think its because water doesnt compress like air/fuel, so when the piston comes up, the top goes boom.

maybe a combo of the two.

-Tim
 
its actually a combination of the non compressing factor (acts like a door stop)and the fact it wont burn away instantly (wont clear the path for the moving piston) like gas does that locks up the engine. If you ever do this to a engine you will definatly know what im talking about
 
about the people who pour the seafoam in the throttle body or use a vac line, not sure if you ever noticed but if you pour water into your intake manifold (off the car) the water doesn't go into all 6 outlets when level, from what i saw favors the front side; this would be different when mounted but i think it is pretty unlikely that an equal amount is making it into all cylinders (manifold designed for air not liquid) and your likely dumping 2x as much into some cylinders and next to none in the opposite ones (especially using an offcenter vac line).... that just seems like a problem...

on another note whats better to use in the crankcase short term pre-oil change MMO or Seafoam??? have heard gooad about both for cleaning it out
 
miketyson said:
on another note whats better to use in the crankcase short term pre-oil change MMO or Seafoam??? have heard gooad about both for cleaning it out
Seafoam could be risky if the engine has been severly abused and is loaded with parrafin, carbon, sludge....that might brake loose using seafoam. In a well maintained engine it is probably OK, but also probably not needed. I would play it safe and use MMO, but only if the drain period went too long or the engine needed some clean up due to prior abuse.
 
Last edited:
Fish'nCarz said:
I'm no expert (ask anyone) but I think you gets hydrolock because water don't burn like gas does.

Couple of thoughts here on pouring any liquid into the intake of an engine. First It sounds realllllly risky, period. That said the normal fuel feed to an engine Carb or FI is a liquid, gasoline or diesel. The trick is to vaporize, boil, evaporate,gassify,or flash.... most of it before or while it gets compressed and to control the flow rate so that you don't have liquid in the cylinder at or near TDC, less one should hydrolock and blow the engine to the nearest graveyard. A good thing would not it be!

I was astounded to recently hear about using a water mist in the intake feed of a running engine (First I had heard of it) to clean up the combustion parts and areas, but after some reflection I can see how it could be very useful in small carefully controlled quantities.

First it has nothing to do with dissolved oxygen in the water. Not enough O2 there do anything significant. Second the following is from a Chemical reaction enginering perspective and some knowledge of changes that water undergoes when you heat and compress the p$ss out of it!

So here goes:

Water is a polar molecule, and oil and gas and probably most of the seafoam ingredient(s) are mostly non-polar (yes ethanol is polar and there may be some polar alcohols or ketones in the seafoam and there is now ethanol in the gas). Oh, also diesel fuel has nitrogen based (partly polar) proteins (amino acid functional groups) in it which is why it makes such and excellant cleaning solvent.

Some soils (polar soils) are far more soluble in water, as they are more polar, than they are in nonpolar oils and fuels.

Next, water tends to split into H+, OH-, H and OH free radicals in increasing amounts as the temperature and pressure increases. At combustion temeratures the water, if used in carefully limited quantities may be at a supercritical fluid state where it is no longer a liquid or a gas (it has a density above the super critical fluid state where the gas and liquid densities are the same). There is actually a patented hazardous waste incineration technology that feeds hazardous waste organics like PCB's into high temperature high pressure water reactors (at 450 F and 400 PSI as I recall) where the split free radical water components literal burn the chlorinated organics into stuff like HCl, and CO2.

Think of it this way, the water forms OH free radicals that react with unburned solid carbon deposits, producing an easier to burn, volatile C-OH alcohol.

Interesting to note here that it may (does) run rough as that carbon burns off, which also happens when gas gets contaminated with water. Also note worthy is that methanol and other alcohols as well as ketones like MEK (a polar ketone) are found in some fuel injector cleaners.

Lastly, I have heard on occasion wild stories about engines that added traces of water to the fuel feed, purportedly burning water to increase gas mileage, so now I am wondering what happens to the mileage and combustion expansion energy release when a small amount of water is added? They do make steam engines after all!???? Be intersting to do some thermodynamic calculations on the energy released as the water turns to vapor at combustion pressures and temperatures.

Anyway, back the topic, the question then is how to SAFELY control the water or seafoam, or ATF or snake oil blend feed rate and not blow up or damage the engine!

My thought would be to do it more slowly (and therefore more safely) by adding a soluble emulsion mix of blended DI water (20%), alcohols (30%), ketones (10%), aromatics like toluene (20%), and polyalcohols like a Glycol ether (20%) Ingredient in 409 and fantistic cleaners) and then add like a pint of that snake oil mix to about 4-5 gallons of gas in the gas tank, then run it at a fast idle (2 to 3000 rpm) for about an hour. Then top off the tank with a full load of good gas and drive it while it finshes cleaning the injectors, carb, and valves, etc. By soluble emulsion I mean a formula that would totally dissolve and disperse the water in the fuel blend.

I once ran a few gas tank fulls of pure MTBE (recently outlawed fuel additive, now replaced with 10% ethanol) Methyl Tertiary Butyl Ether in the gas tank (back in the early 80's, talk about high octane!) and it cleaned the hell of out my old dodge engine. Unfortunately it ate the rubber in the carbs float neddle assy and flooded the engine after about four tank fulls. My 6 quarts of oil turned into 8 quarts before I figured it out. :bawl:
 
First time I did my seafoam treatment I went on a trail into the woods. The second time I just did it at night in my driveway.

When I put it in my crankcase I had maybe a few more oil drops.....but when I changed the oil and went back to Valvoline Max-Life it stopped the new leaks and it just has a few oil drips like before.
 
I was a nonbeliever in Sea Foam when I was first told about it several years ago. I have used it in several vehicles and it always made a noticeable improvement.

I can see why a lot of folks are hesitant about letting a small stream of it being sucked into a vacuum line but the rate is slow. You pour it to fast and you'll bog the engine down. Why not just look at the other uses on the can and try those before you do on your XJ? I've used it on lawn mowers, weed eaters and leaf blowers and it has helped them too.

I also run their Trans Tune before an AT fluid flush with good results.

updates_redcap.gif


I know everyone here swears by PB blaster but, I soak nuts and bolts daily for a week with their Deep Creep and so far not any have twisted loose or broke (I know my time is coming but, so far so good)

Deep-Creep-small.jpg


Now, I have no clue if this stuff works worth a chit but, if it was cheap enough and I worried about bugs (which I don't) then I might try it.
BBG-all2.jpg
:roflmao:

No, I don't have stock, sell it, know anyone that is involved in the company or anything else that would put coins in my pocket.

I tried it on a '97 S-10 ZR2 when the engine was surging up and down and the dealer didn't fix it under warranty after 3 attempts. $5 or $6 (back then), 1/2 hr and it never surged again.
 
splitz said:
NEVER, and I mean NEVER put your vaccum tube inside the can to suck the Sea Foam out. If you do, you WILL "Hydrolock" your engine.
I did this and nothing bad happend. That is how I stalled the enigne when I was done pouring it into the brake booster hose.
[qoute=Ecomike]
Couple of thoughts here on pouring any liquid into the intake of an engine. First It sounds realllllly risky, period. That said the normal fuel feed to an engine Carb or FI is a liquid, gasoline or diesel. The trick is to vaporize, boil, evaporate,gassify,or flash.... most of it before or while it gets compressed and to control the flow rate so that you don't have liquid in the cylinder at or near TDC, less one should hydrolock and blow the engine to the nearest graveyard. A good thing would not it be!

I was astounded to recently hear about using a water mist in the intake feed of a running engine (First I had heard of it) to clean up the combustion parts and areas, but after some reflection I can see how it could be very useful in small carefully controlled quantities.

First it has nothing to do with dissolved oxygen in the water. Not enough O2 there do anything significant. Second the following is from a Chemical reaction enginering perspective and some knowledge of changes that water undergoes when you heat and compress the p$ss out of it!

So here goes:

Water is a polar molecule, and oil and gas and probably most of the seafoam ingredient(s) are mostly non-polar (yes ethanol is polar and there may be some polar alcohols or ketones in the seafoam and there is now ethanol in the gas). Oh, also diesel fuel has nitrogen based (partly polar) proteins (amino acid functional groups) in it which is why it makes such and excellant cleaning solvent.

Some soils (polar soils) are far more soluble in water, as they are more polar, than they are in nonpolar oils and fuels.

Next, water tends to split into H+, OH-, H and OH free radicals in increasing amounts as the temperature and pressure increases. At combustion temeratures the water, if used in carefully limited quantities may be at a supercritical fluid state where it is no longer a liquid or a gas (it has a density above the super critical fluid state where the gas and liquid densities are the same). There is actually a patented hazardous waste incineration technology that feeds hazardous waste organics like PCB's into high temperature high pressure water reactors (at 450 F and 400 PSI as I recall) where the split free radical water components literal burn the chlorinated organics into stuff like HCl, and CO2.

Think of it this way, the water forms OH free radicals that react with unburned solid carbon deposits, producing an easier to burn, volatile C-OH alcohol.

Interesting to note here that it may (does) run rough as that carbon burns off, which also happens when gas gets contaminated with water. Also note worthy is that methanol and other alcohols as well as ketones like MEK (a polar ketone) are found in some fuel injector cleaners.

Lastly, I have heard on occasion wild stories about engines that added traces of water to the fuel feed, purportedly burning water to increase gas mileage, so now I am wondering what happens to the mileage and combustion expansion energy release when a small amount of water is added? They do make steam engines after all!???? Be intersting to do some thermodynamic calculations on the energy released as the water turns to vapor at combustion pressures and temperatures.

Anyway, back the topic, the question then is how to SAFELY control the water or seafoam, or ATF or snake oil blend feed rate and not blow up or damage the engine!

My thought would be to do it more slowly (and therefore more safely) by adding a soluble emulsion mix of blended DI water (20%), alcohols (30%), ketones (10%), aromatics like toluene (20%), and polyalcohols like a Glycol ether (20%) Ingredient in 409 and fantistic cleaners) and then add like a pint of that snake oil mix to about 4-5 gallons of gas in the gas tank, then run it at a fast idle (2 to 3000 rpm) for about an hour. Then top off the tank with a full load of good gas and drive it while it finshes cleaning the injectors, carb, and valves, etc. By soluble emulsion I mean a formula that would totally dissolve and disperse the water in the fuel blend.
[/quote]
X2 :looney:
 
SCW said:
You can even spray a little water down the TB and cause the temps in the combustion chamber to climb, burning off a lot of crap. Water injection is somewhat common especially in military vehicles, but it doesn't mean you drown the engine in water and lock it up.

That's the way my Grand-pa and my dad taught me to clean out the engine. Get a small bottle (20oz soda bottle works great) Just slowly add (at operating temp of the motor) through the carb/ TB at a rate just below making the motor gasp and use 1/2 to all the water.

Yeah, I have been thinking about using the sea-foam too, just haven't yet.
 
Just as an observation...reading through many posts here and other boards.....I read where people have had good luck and others warning that loosening or removing crude that may be sealing or holding things together may do more damage than good or maybe cause it to leak worst. Maybe I have missed them...but I cant remember reading anyones post saying for sure that seafoam has done more harm to their motor. My XJ has 260k....naturally I am cautious of using it on mine. However I do plan on giving it a try. It already leaks here and there.
Does anyone have definate stories of bad results?

Tim
 
Big Red said:
"Happy to be able to help out a Veteran Member" -- Wow, I'm not used to such comments on this website Zice!!!

I'd like to think that my comments are value added, even if many times it has a comic value with my comments or the "nice" feedback I get from others here. Glad I could help.

We can learn a lot from this site from the newbie to the novice. We learn in life from our own experience and from what others have experienced. It's very beneficial when someone else can relay their good and bad experiences and we can piggy back on that so as not to go down the wrong path.

:cheers:

Troy

Wow, that statement is like a breath of fresh air! Too bad this same attitude is not being displayed in the members forum right now. Thanks for bringing out what this site is TRULY all about, and sorry for the hijack. :D
 
I used seafoam in my gas tank about 3 months ago. This time I am using B-12 Chemtool in my gas tank, which actually lists it's ingredients on the can, which are:

Toluene, methanol, Acetone, 2-butoxyethanol, mixed xylenes, isopropanol, and methyl-ethyl-ketone.
 
Back
Top