~Scott

I've got to work tonight but may have a free hour or so this weekend if you don't have it done by then. Let me know.
 
I've got to work tonight but may have a free hour or so this weekend if you don't have it done by then. Let me know.

Planning to finish tomorrow, but thanks.

~Scott
 
So, you're having a problem installing a u-joint? You don't need a u-joint tool or a C-clamp, you need a socket that's slightly bigger than the D/S yoke hole and aonother one that's slightly smaller. Remove the c-clips, rest the bigger socket on a vise anvil, driveway concrete, flat rock, etc, center the u-joint/yoke on it, put the smaller socket on the upper end of same yoke axis, smack with hammer to drive u-joint out. Repeat as necessary until u-joint(s) are removed. Put capless new u-joint cross into yoke, insert one cap into one side, drop cross into cap until needle bearings are "engaged" on crosspin, tap it in until flush with yoke, insert other cap into other side making sure needle bearings are "engaged on crosspin, tap cap on until flush. Put smaller socket on one cap and tap until slightly below where clip engaged, insert clip. Repeat for opposite side. If they both are deep enough to accept clips, you successfully got the crosspins into the caps without laying a needle bearing over. Install other clip, give each yoke 3 or 4 smacks with a hammer to center up the joint, it should rotate by hand now fully installed. Put it back on the Jeep. If the caps won't go deep enough to accept both clips, you layed a needle bearing over. Remove and repeat, being more careful to keep the crosspins engaged with the needle bearings as you tap the caps in.


I've done several u-joints in the dirt at camp this way,, it just takes patience and care. Persevere, young Padwan.
 
Thanks Doug, It's not that I'm having trouble installing u-joints, its just that it's hard to do while the shaft is still under your rig so I can't pop them out with a sledge...and my c-clamp that is big enough is broken.

I'm just trying to remove the old one from the driveshaft without popping the joint at the t-case. I'll get a new c-clamp today though (hopefully HF will warrenty it) and SHOULD have my rig moving around tonight. (Brakes are almost done, just need to cut and bubble 3 more lines and attach to new prop valve, then bleed the system)

~Scott
 
Thanks Doug, It's not that I'm having trouble installing u-joints, its just that it's hard to do while the shaft is still under your rig so I can't pop them out with a sledge...and my c-clamp that is big enough is broken.

I'm just trying to remove the old one from the driveshaft without popping the joint at the t-case. I'll get a new c-clamp today though (hopefully HF will warrenty it) and SHOULD have my rig moving around tonight. (Brakes are almost done, just need to cut and bubble 3 more lines and attach to new prop valve, then bleed the system)

~Scott

Why don't you pull the DS out? I can have my front out in about 15 min and I have a fully belly skid.

-Alex
 
Why don't you pull the DS out? I can have my front out in about 15 min and I have a fully belly skid.

-Alex

Because to do that I have to pop out the u joints up top. It doesn't bolt up like the front DS or SYE shafts do, it's clipped in on all ends of the u-joint at the t-case...and I don't need to/want to replace that joint. There's no reason to pull the shaft if I'm not replacing both joints.

~Scott
 
What kind of yoke do you have on your transfer case? :confused:

Willy
 
Because to do that I have to pop out the u joints up top. It doesn't bolt up like the front DS or SYE shafts do, it's clipped in on all ends of the u-joint at the t-case...and I don't need to/want to replace that joint. There's no reason to pull the shaft if I'm not replacing both joints.

~Scott

WTF kind of XJ you working on here? On the front shaft, you have the two "C" tabs at the fwd end, and 4 8mm bolts at the t-case end. The entire CV assembly comes off attached to the shaft. How is your aft shaft configured? It should be either 2 u-bolts or a companion flange with 4 15mm or 5/8" bolts at either end. With no SYE, it just slips out at the t-case end.


I don't understand what the problem is with pulling the shaft to make it easier. Replacing u-joints with the shaft in the vehicle seems moronic, unless there's something here that's specific to your particular rig that I'm missing.
 
Maybe I wasn't clear...but this is what I'm talking about.

shaft.jpg


Correct me if I'm wrong but to remove the shaft I have to pop the clips, and pull the u-joint out...which in turn means to put it back I have to press it back on. What I'm saying is since I'm not replacing or doing anything to this portion of the DS (the u-joint) there is no need to remove it. I was simply using the front DS being easy to remove as an example, as opposed to the rear not being just a few bolts to pull it off.

~Scott

EDIT: I think I may understand what you guys are talking about...does the whole t-case end pull out of the t-case? If so, I did not know that...
 
You don't have to remove that u-joint. Pull the driveshaft out of the transfer case. You don't have an SYE. The only thing holding it on are the straps on the differential yoke, which it sounds like you already removed. It pulls straight out of the rear of the transfer case. :twak:

Willy
 
You don't have to remove that u-joint. Pull the driveshaft out of the transfer case. You don't have an SYE. The only thing holding it on are the straps on the differential yoke. :twak:

Willy

Well I never planning on removing that u-joint...but good to know. I had a feeling it pulled all the way out but wasn't 100% sure so I just didn't try. (Last thing I need to do is accidentally damage something)

I feel edumacated now. :banghead:
No more painting without a mask for me! :skull1:

~Scott
 
Well just in case I bought a u-joint tool with my 20% off coupon at HF just now, and got a replacement c-clamp for free (gotta love their warranty).

:thumbup:

~Scott
 
Sounds like your all set. I have to stay away from HF myself otherwise I would spend most of my jeep budget there every payday:eeks1:.
 
Finished the rig so it can drive...just came back from a test ride.

I either have bad driveline vibes, or no shocks makes a big difference. Either way, tomorrow I hope to have the shock mounts welded on.

My brakes are trippy, they go all the way to the floor with almost no pressure but they'll lock up in a second. It's really weird not having pressure (yes, I'll bleed them again after some drive time to get the bubbles out).

~Scott
 
How were the 4.88 gears? Seems weird your getting brake lock up even with bubbles in the line. Did you turn the rotors and run new pads and such on the new rear axle? If not maybe your just wearing through the coating of rust.
 
How were the 4.88 gears? Seems weird your getting brake lock up even with bubbles in the line. Did you turn the rotors and run new pads and such on the new rear axle? If not maybe your just wearing through the coating of rust.

Rotors were turned but old pads and both front and rear accumulated light rust while sitting on the rig exposed. It'll wear off I'm sure, it's just weird having a super soft pedal but still have brakes engage in the XJ.

Blah I'll tighten up my lugs before work, and take a drive to see how it feels...and MIGHT drive it to work.

~Scott

P.S. Hey James, any chance you wana help me weld the shock mounts on around 7pm today?
 
Hey Scott,

I don't get off of work today until 4:30. I will have to check with the boss (wife) to see what we have planned for the evening. If I'm free I would be happy to give you a hand. I will let you know if I am.

James
 
Hey Scott,

I don't get off of work today until 4:30. I will have to check with the boss (wife) to see what we have planned for the evening. If I'm free I would be happy to give you a hand. I will let you know if I am.

James

Yeah I drove to work today, I don't get off till 6, but I definately need shocks...haha

I can't go over 40mph without being scared of bumps and turns.

~Scott
 
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