SAS Swap Jap Crap? I got a 94 Nissan Hardbody that needs to be SaS'd up.

[DigJeepsBrah]

I priced out what it would cost to replace my Upper control arms, all control arm bushings, inner and outer tie rod ends, ball joints, CV's, Brakes, front shocks, new torsion bars, and add a idler arm brace... Needless to say for the time and money invested (slightly over $1000.00 before shipping) *was going to do this in preparation for a 3" lift, but I heard it's just too hard on parts and not worth my time or money to lift it on the IFS, and I'm not a hillbilly so I don't believe in body lifts* I'm pretty sure for that price I could do a 3 link and a solid axle. Has anyone messed with Toyotas or Nissans? This project at the moment is taking priority over my Jeep because the Nissan is my work truck/solo adventure truck.. Meaning a lot of times I get work in the mountains I end up staying up there for as long as the job takes and sleeping in my truck and finding sh!t to wheel, and places to camp. It is the season for me to get back into some full time work again unfortunately.

If anyone is willing to help me with this anything out of $1,200 dollars we don't use in parts is yours to keep if you're interested. I'll keep the beer and bud rollin' the whole time, and keep you fed too. I'd be looking to break ground on this project on April 1st(ish).. I also haven't done a build like this, so if my offer seems way off let me know. I just know I don't know of anyone personally that can offer any kind of help, and I know a shop will bend me over sideways and backwards.. That is unless this is a misconception of my own and someone can recommend me a shop that could do it for that price parts/labor. ehhh.. need some advice to say the least.

(fenders are off cause the old ones were rusted through, I bought some fiberglass baja fenders off craigs for 100 bucks, sweet deal on 400 dollar Hannemann fenders)

 

[time2getdirty]

1200 will be very very very very tight. You have to buy an axle, fix that axle, new suspension and instillation. Leaf springs would be cheaper but you also have to worry about steering and driveshaft and all te maitanance on the axle you are putting in.

 

[YELLAHEEP]

" I'll keep the beer and bud rollin' the whole time......"

Yeah cuz that shit helps with build quality and time efficiency...... :laugh:


I'm with 'Dirty ..... $1200 is gonna be on the tough side to make happen given the fab work involved. But hey...... I love being proven wrong in these cases!

 

[jimgrms]

" I'll keep the beer and bud rollin' the whole time......"

Yeah cuz that shit helps with build quality and time efficiency...... :laugh:


I'm with 'Dirty ..... $1200 is gonna be on the tough side to make happen given the fab work involved. But hey...... I love being proven wrong in these cases!

Good Luck

 

[time2getdirty]

Seeing as you are a bud man, you might be able to get something worked out with H.O.R.E....

 

[DigJeepsBrah]

" I'll keep the beer and bud rollin' the whole time......"

Yeah cuz that shit helps with build quality and time efficiency...... :laugh:


I'm with 'Dirty ..... $1200 is gonna be on the tough side to make happen given the fab work involved. But hey...... I love being proven wrong in these cases!

The beer and the bud just happen to be here anyway. It's just good incentive. :rtm:

Like I said, if 1200 seemed a bit off, please correct me if I'm wrong. I've never gotten into anything quite this. I need to get it done, so I'm all ears. This isn't an optional pipe dream kind of a thing. This needs to happen. :wave:

 

[UnlimitedMatt]

Seeing as you are a bud man, you might be able to get something worked out with H.O.R.E....

Hahahahahaha.

I got a second hand buzz just walking in to that joint (pun intended).:smoker:

 

[time2getdirty]

Seeing as you are serious here is some advice and instruction. Take it as a grain of salt because I have no first hand exerience.

Search search search.
Find a few builds of what you want. Figure out your entire parts list and buy all of the parts. Have the axle rebuilt (either do it yourself or have a hop build it to make sure or is the same gear ratio and everything is fresh so you don't swap and end up still in the same boat of needing to replace stuff)
Have your plans mapped out before you even touch the Nissan and then find a shop or friend who you feel is capable of turning a wrench and laying a bead overhead.
Have them do the conversion and then your done.

Remember something's to consider: wheels, gearing, brakes, suspension, driveshaft, steering, frame modifications, money to deal with unexpected problems during the process and afterwards when stuff goes wrong a month down the road.

 

[YELLAHEEP]

Also......... you're going to have to lift the rear along with doing the front. Most of those SAS budget builds under Toyotas and Nissans tend to add quite a bit of lift when leaf packs up front are used. IFS front end frames tend to set pretty low and can limit axle travel, and you also wanna ensure the oil pan isnt going to be at risk of contacting the new axle diff on up-travel.

Why not just sell the Nissan and get another XJ? Or if you need a truck, look for an earlier Toyota?

 

[time2getdirty]

Why not just sell the Nissan and get another XJ? Or if you need a truck, look for a MJ?

FIFY

 

[YELLAHEEP]

I didn't include the MJ because his Nissan is an extra cab and that can be hard to give up. MJ's worth owning as a DD/work truck are HARD to find too.

 

[DigJeepsBrah]

Seeing as you are serious here is some advice and instruction. Take it as a grain of salt because I have no first hand exerience.

Search search search.
Find a few builds of what you want. Figure out your entire parts list and buy all of the parts. Have the axle rebuilt (either do it yourself or have a hop build it to make sure or is the same gear ratio and everything is fresh so you don't swap and end up still in the same boat of needing to replace stuff)
Have your plans mapped out before you even touch the Nissan and then find a shop or friend who you feel is capable of turning a wrench and laying a bead overhead.
Have them do the conversion and then your done.

Remember something's to consider: wheels, gearing, brakes, suspension, driveshaft, steering, frame modifications, money to deal with unexpected problems during the process and afterwards when stuff goes wrong a month down the road.

I have a lot of details knocked out to a degree; Bonney motorsports sells the hangers, I need a 80-91 Grand Wagoneer D44 without the vacuum disco, flat top knuckle and a high steer arm for the passenger side, I can use the shock towers off the waggy, 4.56 gearing in the front and get a H233B out of a pathfinder with 4.6's for the rear. I imagine the front driveshaft will just have to be custom. Use Toyota leaves, or maybe the waggy leaves for the time being unless I can afford to do a 3 link with a tracbar set up. I'll have issues with the VG30 motor doing a 4 link set up with the oil pan.. The Waggy's bolt pattern is the same as the Nissan's so the wheels will swap over.. There's all kinds of SAS Nissan builds on line I've done a lot of research, I just need help putting it all together and I don't have access to torches or welders..

Also......... you're going to have to lift the rear along with doing the front. Most of those SAS budget builds under Toyotas and Nissans tend to add quite a bit of lift when leaf packs up front are used. IFS front end frames tend to set pretty low and can limit axle travel, and you also wanna ensure the oil pan isnt going to be at risk of contacting the new axle diff on up-travel.

Why not just sell the Nissan and get another XJ? Or if you need a truck, look for an earlier Toyota?

I'm expecting a 3"esque result from the SAS up front. I'll probly to a cannibalized bastard pack out back or a shackle. I'm not entirely sure what all I would be able to make fit, but if all else fails for the time being, I know I can source 3" shackles.

I'm partial to the Nissan to be honest for a few reasons; The boxy goodness, the king cab(just so nice to have a bit of room behind the seats, don't get this in the early Toyota's), the bed and the option to take the topper off and really load the SOB up if I need to.

I don't have the scratch for a new ride anyway... I really dig MJ's and would love to go that route but I do think it would be pretty bad ass to have a SAS'd King Cab Hardbody on 33's. The body is super rust free, I only paid 1800 bucks for it(even had to get a small loan from my folks I was so broke), I got it with low miles(96k), it's been ultra reliable, it replaced my 96 ZJ that had never ending electrical gremlins and she got me through some tough times when I was living in a house that I couldn't hardly afford my 1200 dollar a month rent note after my ex and I broke up and I was still locked into another 11 months worth of lease and I was going to college full time and working full time.. That Nissan deserves it. I don't think I'd be able to bring myself to sell her.

Although I really really really want an early solid front axle Toyota. The Toyota Hilux is probably the sexiest vehicle ever...ever.

If the dude down the street from me sells his I'll buy it. Blue on white with a little body rust, steel front bumper with a recovery hoop and a winch, dark tan soft topper, solid front axle, standard cab long bed. It looks like a freakin Tamiya Bruiser, it's awesome. I wouldn't even fix the body rust. It adds too much character. I'd just spray it with WD-40 and keep a cover over it. Just to keep the "look" LoL!

 

[in4aride]

Why ditch the IFS? I mean the SAS would be super groovy. But you dont need it. Sound slike for what you do, the comfort of driving and reliability is of big concern.
Why not do a newer IFS swap? Something off the newer Xterras or whatever.
I just dont see going with a SAS when you dont NEED the SA.

 

[DigJeepsBrah]

Why ditch the IFS? I mean the SAS would be super groovy. But you dont need it. Sound slike for what you do, the comfort of driving and reliability is of big concern.
Why not do a newer IFS swap? Something off the newer Xterras or whatever.
I just dont see going with a SAS when you dont NEED the SA.

I'm trying to get away from the constant aligning and all the weak consumable parts like TRE's, CAB's, CV's. That crap gets expensive to replace. Another reason to ditch the IFS in favor of a SAS swap is lift.

Lifting an IFS is garbage, huge stresses on the CV's, requires torquing the torsion bars and causes them to wear more quickly, to achieve the lift you also need new UCA's to maintain your camber angle and the truck will literally never hold an alignment again, then you go through tires more quickly.. IFS is just silly, and I see no ride benefit at all.. I prefer the ride of my XJ over the ride in my D21 to be honest, but that's probably because the D21 needs shocks and torsion bars, and it has a MUCH longer wheelbase so by the time the back tires hit anything it's a shock to the spine.. LoL

 

[in4aride]

you sir need to rethink ifs. Lots of ways to obtain lift. And you still have have those wearing parts on sas.
seriously. Look into its stuff. A lot has changed in 10 years.

with waggy front, what is width difference gonna be? Pitman arm/steering box alignment?

 

[DigJeepsBrah]

you sir need to rethink ifs. Lots of ways to obtain lift. And you still have have those wearing parts on sas.
seriously. Look into its stuff. A lot has changed in 10 years.

with waggy front, what is width difference gonna be? Pitman arm/steering box alignment?

The difference in width is actually pretty nominal. I think it's a 1.5 inch difference IIRC.

Steering I don't know about yet. I've been unable to locate anyone in Colorado with a SAS'd D21 to go look at and take pictures of. When I hear of swaps I don't often hear of steering box issues. Everyone swears by Calmini's Idler arm brace though.

I understand parts on the solid axle wear as well. Just not at the seemingly more and more exponential rate the parts on an IFS system will prematurely wear with bigger heavier tires.

Not to mention sourcing newer parts for more common cars that there's more demand on the supply for. I can't imagine I'd be anywhere near my initial price point trying to revamp the IFS with newer Xterra stuff. Part of the nice thing about this build will be the time spent reconditioning junk yard gems, making everything fit together, finding the parts. Cause all the parts I need are off of obsolete vehicles to 90% of Americans there's no worry about getting bent over simply because there's a demand for the parts because there's still a million Xterra's on the road.

You're right, I don't have a need for an SAS, but after I do it I'll find one.

IFS is silly, and there's a lot more consumable parts and weak links.

Nissan missed out on a killing to be made.

They should have done an American left hand drive quad cab 2.8 I4 Turbo Diesel with a solid front axle.

That would be soo nasty.

 

[in4aride]

IFS is silly, and there's a lot more consumable parts and weak links.

:gag:


Didnt think it would be that close in width, thats nice. If you do leaf springs up front, how long are they going to need to be? What vehicles at a JY will fit the proper measurements. Can you weld on the parts yourself?
If 3/4 link, where are coil buckets and shock mounts going? Is there any x-members that are in the way of an articulating driveshaft?

Bear in mind if you are rebuilding a front axle and gearing the rear to match, youll be close to your 1k budget very, very quickly.

What size tire are you planning on going with?
Would it be cheaper to find a ZJ d30 and drum 8.8 both with 3.73 to toss in? Then you can use readily available axle components, wheels, etc on your truck.

 

[DigJeepsBrah]

:gag:


Didnt think it would be that close in width, thats nice. If you do leaf springs up front, how long are they going to need to be? What vehicles at a JY will fit the proper measurements. Can you weld on the parts yourself?
If 3/4 link, where are coil buckets and shock mounts going? Is there any x-members that are in the way of an articulating driveshaft?

Bear in mind if you are rebuilding a front axle and gearing the rear to match, youll be close to your 1k budget very, very quickly.

What size tire are you planning on going with?
Would it be cheaper to find a ZJ d30 and drum 8.8 both with 3.73 to toss in? Then you can use readily available axle components, wheels, etc on your truck.

There's a bunch of IFS related hangers and perches that need to be cut off the frame. Leaf springs will be the most economic route for the time being, I do worry my already long wheelbase turning radius will suffer. A 3 link would be truly ideal, as it would seem to me the exhaust and/or oil pan may be in the way for that IIRC. Gearing will end up @ 4.56 for the front D44, and 4.6 in the rear (H233B Pathy gears) I'm under the assumption that I can use the waggy front springs or make a toyota bastard pack. No cross members in the way of a flexing drive shaft... I can not weld myself. I've arc welded a few times, but I've just never really had access to the stuff. I can't see going bigger than a 33x12.50R15, and I figure with 4.56/4.6 gearing and a standard tranny I should be right on the money for 33's.

 

[YELLAHEEP]

I dunno man..... Sounds like you're over thinking this SAS project for what you initially stated your reasons were for wanting to do it. A D44, lockers, 4:56's, 3 link..... Are you building a crawler? Or a DD/work truck that will handle the mountain highway commuting and light trails?

A Late model TJ LPD30 will fit better with a leaf sprung SAS and a simple OTK steering set up would work better than a D44 high steer on flat tops...... You're gonna end up with a pretty tall rig with the direction your plans are evolving into.

A waggy D44 diff housing is more to the center of the axle and overall larger and longer than the D30..... The D44 is gonna be a bigger clearance issue overall.

 

[YELLAHEEP]

And LOL @ Mike comparing apples and oranges by posting that IFS buggy pic...... Light unsprung weight and custom over-engineered special application parts costing thousands go into those suspensions......nothing like adding an after market lift bracket kit and retaining stock parts, then adding bigger tires. :laugh:

I did the IFS dance with my 3" lifted '91 S10 for 5 years before switching to the XJs simplicity and solid axle. Replacing lower ball joints and idler arms every 4-6 months got real old and expensive. Dragging the dropped torsion bars over everything sucked as well.