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rugged ridge steering??

No we are not but the Rugged kit still uses jam nuts and you could at least flip the driver's side tierod for OTK...also your draglink TRE's and driver's side TRE are still coventional tierod ends.
 
Oh ok I got it now.
Is there any binding of the TRE with it set up like that?
 
With one side being flipped and one not? Well I've never seen it done with a solid tierod setup but I know for the Y steering (like stock steering, Currie, etc) you cannot flip the passenger side (besides, it is already out of the way anyway) so you just flip the driver's side to the top of the knuckle to get the tierod out of the way of the rocks.

Since the Rugged ridge uses the odd passenger side tierod you cannot flip that side otherwise the steering wouldn't fit. Since the rod end is solid with that bent piece. JCR and Rusty's you can flip just fine.
 
Check these out it is Dorman brand ; Dorman Shock & End Link Bushings: Size: .400" x .996" x .556" & .436" x 1.22" x .665"

Part Number: 31019


It is $4.95 here in CT at advanceautoparts. It looks like one of them will work by the measurements given on the site.
31019.jpg


I tried these today with the Rugged Ridge. There are two kinds of bushings in the pack. I used the tapered cone shaped ones and a 5/8 grade 8 washer underneath the bushing. Cut off the the bottom ring (opposite end of the cone) flush. Drill out the bushing to 1/2". The bushings seem small until you torque them down to 60ft lbs. My steering has never felt better ! And it even holds grease. Big difference versus no spacer. Even the S turns are a breeze. If it only lasts a month it will not matter. I will take 10 minutes to throw a bushing in any day with these results. :clap:

94 ZJ 5.2 RE 4.5" SF
 
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I see, I don't even have this same steering but the Rusty's is very similar. Basically the same in terms of the rolling. My new Moog TRE's I have in the drawer waiting to go on should limit the rolling alot. I'll take a comparasion pic of the difference in the quality of cheap TRE's vs. good quality stuff.
 
Oh yeah, Moog are beef for sure. Although I think it would have a very similar roll even if it was on the RR kit. Not sure about Rustys though. I had about an 1" of roll before and the joints seemed real tight.
 
My stock (cheap) TRE's have a circle hole that the stud can roll around it. The moogs have an oval hole which would seem to reduce side to side rolling. I'll take pics later to show.
 
Here is one of the (unknown brand??) tierod end that my Rusty's steering conversion came with. Below is one of my new Moog tie rod ends that I ordered from Summit. You can see how the cheap tierod end has a round hole (kind of hard to see with the grease) and that the Moog has an oval hole.

TieRodEndComparison.jpg


And here is what the cheap tierod end does when you over flex it while installing control arm drop brackets. Thank god this didn't happen on the road. I was testing out the XJ with the new drop brackets and then when I got back home I turned the wheel in my garage and it snapped! Garbage. If there is a god I've thanked him!

BrokenTRE.jpg


As far as I know the Moog TRE's are FORGED....not cast, which were apparently how the cheapies were constructed. Should have bought JCR 1 ton steering because I paid more than what the JCR setup costs after you factor in the cost of the replacement MOOG TRE's. Although I did not know about the JCR steering at the time. Glad I didn't buy Rugged Ridge though.

From what I've heard it appears that this is the line:

Rugged Ridge < Rusty's < JCR

Just for the solid tierod configurations. Not counting Currie's inverted Y steering which is absoultely beef as piss. That stuff is so thick!
 
So why does the new Moog threaded shank look bigger ? Interesting find with the different shapped holes...

Curt
 
I think it is just an optical illusion with the difference in color as well as the protective sleeve on the cheapy.

The locknut on the Moog is the same as the ones that work with the Rusty's steering so obviously the threads are correct and the right size.

I am going to swap on the Moog's as soon as I get my Go-Fer-It OTK D30 inserts welded. But I do not have a welder or a 1/2" drill bit! Then I can finally remove the swaybar once again and not worry about over flexing...it's sad I have to worry about overflexing with the noname asswhipe TRE's.

BTW the Moog threaded section MIGHT be longer, which wouldnt bother me at all! Also the Moog's do not have the tapered unthreaded part at the end of the "stud" part as the cheapy ones do....with mean the cheapies have less threads overall definitely!
 
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So, anyone have any bad opinions of this kit?

Read most of the first several pages and skimmed thru the rest.

Just looking for a summary LOL

1. Save your $$$ for a better kit...

2. If you can't wait look into the ZJ steering upgrade... or a Currie Lynk.

I need to get it off mine... it's not horrible, but it's sub par...

Curt
 
Cool Thanks.

As the pages went on the reviews seemed to go from good to desent to aghh to nope LOL

I just have a bit of bump steer and little dead spot of two with me at 6" lift. That and being on stock steering I need to get something better. Ill figure out something
 
So, anyone have any bad opinions of this kit?

Read most of the first several pages and skimmed thru the rest.

Just looking for a summary LOL

Your list would be alot shorter if you searched for someone that "liked" this kit.
 
So can the moog part be used with a RR set up? I need to replace my Drivers side TRE any ways and aMoog part looks far nicer. Can anyone post pics of the Spacer being used? And part numbers for the moog parts. Thanks
 
So can the moog part be used with a RR set up? I need to replace my Drivers side TRE any ways and aMoog part looks far nicer. Can anyone post pics of the Spacer being used? And part numbers for the moog parts. Thanks

RR has the TRE's custom made. You can't use any parts store part to replace them.

I sell the replacement TRE's and we should have our sponsorship re-upped any minute now.
 
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