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Rough Country 6.5" long arm - first impressions

Thanks for the tip, that's the part Im missing.
 
On you problem with the tranny mount on the CM. I bought the tranny mount for a YJ which is centered as opposed to the offset XJ mount. It mounted perfect. Before that it was just a smidge off, like 1/8 to 1/4" to the side. I think I have the PN somewhere and I will post it. You think RC would just add it to the kit.

Dave
 
I went to install the lift yesterday and as I'm setting everything out I noticed I'm missing 2 X-flex joints.
One Upper and one Lower!

Let the Fun begin.

I called up RC and the guy was extremely polite, took my information and said they would call me on Monday to get the parts sent out.

Decided to install the cross-member
First the Trans mount did not fit, so I picked up a 4 cylinder version to get this moving.
Then the Exhaust mount just before the Cat was hitting, so I pulled that out.

I installed the 2 center bolts on each side of the Cross-Member, and when I went to install the side plates I had issues with buggered factory anchor nuts as well as one hole in the cross member was slightly off.

I'm running out to pick up a tap set to clean the threads and then I'll clearance the one hole that was a little off.
 
WraithKWK said:
I went to install the lift yesterday and as I'm setting everything out I noticed I'm missing 2 X-flex joints.
One Upper and one Lower!

Let the Fun begin.

I called up RC and the guy was extremely polite, took my information and said they would call me on Monday to get the parts sent out.

Decided to install the cross-member
First the Trans mount did not fit, so I picked up a 4 cylinder version to get this moving.
Then the Exhaust mount just before the Cat was hitting, so I pulled that out.

I installed the 2 center bolts on each side of the Cross-Member, and when I went to install the side plates I had issues with buggered factory anchor nuts as well as one hole in the cross member was slightly off.

I'm running out to pick up a tap set to clean the threads and then I'll clearance the one hole that was a little off.
Click to expand...


Yea, CM bolt alignment was a bitch. I just enlarged 3 of the holes and ran a tap through the factory frame nuts. I argued with RC about the trans mount alignment, but as some said above, it's off by about 1/8. RC says this is normal and that once it's actually in place, it'll sit right, but they're definitely mistaken. I checked the pull on the motor mounts before and after, and it's not insignificant once the RC CM is on. I'm not too concerned as I've got bombproof mounts, but there's no good excuse for the poor alignment.

I gave up entirely on their leafs. They were nice and flexy but nothing doing, I couldn't get that 2" back. My RE leafs are holding me up real nice, but they're super stiff. I just swapped to a D44 that has flush shock mounts, so those N2.0 shocks are about 3.5" from topping out at rest, but when I lift an axle with a jack, it won't top out the shock before the Jeep flips over :) I've got about 2" up-travel and about 3.5" down :( which works out to barely over half my shock travel.

All that said, my problems are all about the rear end. The front end articulates like a mofo, and rides surprisingly smooth. I think the upper control arms are a little too long, but tightened all the way back they JUST set my caster correctly.

At this point, I've decided I'm going to go one of two routes.
1. Remove one or two leafs from the RE pack, or use the RE main leaf and RC lowers, and also drop the front leaf mount 3". This would level out my axle nice, and while the RC lowers with the RE main would lose me about 1.5" lift, the 3" drop mount will gain that back exactly. That should give me easily more spring articulation than my 10" shocks will allow for.
2. Tri-link. Will be moving into a new house at the end of the month. Has garage! I'm way too excited about having a garage again. I figure once I have a shop with a welder, building a tri-link won't be that much work. Besides which, I'd kinda like to go with coilovers now.

I think I really like the RC Long arms, and the x-flex joints seem pretty decent. The CM needs some new holes for sure, the leafs are too soft to get the full 6.5" lift, the N2.2 shocks are garbage, but the 2.0 so far seem to be decent. The longer shackle and shackle drop are bomber for sure, like the rest of their structural components. Just really piss poor quality control and a few small design issues.
 
I think by the time I finish this install we should take pictures and write a "how to" for anyone else who buys this kit.

For me the Passenger side of the CM Both Front and Rear holes needed to be opened up with a half inch drill bit. Then I had to open up the holes on the passenger CM side plate as well.

The Tap I used for the Frame Anchor nuts was a 10mm x 1.25 Tap

The Transmission mount I used was
Centered: $19.99 89 Cherokee 4wd 4 Cylinder
2

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Transmission-Mount/1989-Jeep-Cherokee-4WD/_/N-iuad5Z6o23q?itemIdentifier=4816_0_0_9202

The stock tranny mount on my Jeep was
Offset: $31.99 89 Cherokee 4wd 6 Cylinder
2

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Transmission-Mount/1989-Jeep-Cherokee-4WD/_/N-iuad5Z6o23q?itemIdentifier=4844_0_0_26700
 
WraithKWK said:
I think by the time I finish this install we should take pictures and write a "how to" for anyone else who buys this kit.

For me the Passenger side of the CM Both Front and Rear holes needed to be opened up with a half inch drill bit. Then I had to open up the holes on the passenger CM side plate as well.

The Tap I used for the Frame Anchor nuts was a 10mm x 1.25 Tap

The Transmission mount I used was
Centered: $19.99 89 Cherokee 4wd 4 Cylinder
2

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Transmission-Mount/1989-Jeep-Cherokee-4WD/_/N-iuad5Z6o23q?itemIdentifier=4816_0_0_9202

The stock tranny mount on my Jeep was
Offset: $31.99 89 Cherokee 4wd 6 Cylinder
2

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Transmission-Mount/1989-Jeep-Cherokee-4WD/_/N-iuad5Z6o23q?itemIdentifier=4844_0_0_26700
Click to expand...

Haha shit! I should have thought of this. Confirmed on my rig as well. I've got the 4.0L/AX15 mount and it's out exactly 1/8". Found a 2.5L version of the mount and it lines up perfectly. Fortunately my motor mounts dealt with the torsion just fine, but stock mounts would've been torn apart for sure.

Have you managed to get the kit tested yet? I'm interested to hear about the rear lift height as well as what happens to those leaf bushings. I figure 2 sets busting on me means there must be a manufacturing issue, so you'll probably see the same issue after some light wheeling.

Let me know. I'm keeping RC updated on the issues.
 
travisk said:
Before you install it, check the track bar heim and make sure that it's the teflon-lined version.
Click to expand...

Just talked to RC about this as well, as I didn't see any teflon parts for the heim. Was apparently phased out and the joint was updated without the teflon. My track-bar is holding up well so I assume I've got the new version.
 
Im stuck waiting on my missing x flex joints to get shipped and my sye.
at least another week or 2 to be able to drive it again. I will keep updating as I go.
 
Missing parts got ordered on Monday and showed up today.
If you ask me that is top notch service.

My IRO hack n tap SYE will be in on Tuesday.
 
Last edited:
Oh, always. I've absolute faith in RC's ability to replace parts. I'm starting to lose a bit of faith in their ability to solve a problem that isn't solved as simply as "fire out replacements".
Lemme know how those leafs go :). I'm really hoping they go in and give you the correct lift, and the bushing eyes don't fall out when the Jeep encounters it's first gentle breeze, cause then I can get mine replaced as well :).
 
Im confused on the bushings where the upper arms mount to the axle. There are 4many bushings that look like they would fit but the center hole looks like it would need a sleeve. Any tips on removing the stock bushings.
 
WraithKWK said:
Im confused on the bushings where the upper arms mount to the axle. There are 4many bushings that look like they would fit but the center hole looks like it would need a sleeve. Any tips on removing the stock bushings.
Click to expand...

There's nothing needed from the uppers or lowers. Just bolt through and done.
Your uppers should have rubber/poly bushings pressed into the axle, with metal eyelets. If not, your Jeep is missing parts :p. I usually just bust out my bushing hammer to slam in a new set.
 
My front TC yoke is hitting my cross-member, I was thinking it was because I installed my track bar without centering up the axle, its definitely way off to the side, but now i'm wondering if it has something to do with the trans mount issue.

Rear leafs are in, RC never bothered to modify the shackle relocation brackets to fit Renix years so I left them out for now. My shackles sit just a hair less that 90 degrees.

I also installed 4 degree axle shims cause I had them in the garage
 
Still have to install the SYE kit
 
Do you have a 231 or a 242, I have the 242. I'll post up some pics in a second
 
2013-08-24_16-50-10_669_zps853c60f9.jpg

2013-08-24_16-50-24_820_zps4105b862.jpg

2013-08-24_16-50-34_980_zpsba1e4431.jpg

2013-08-24_16-50-45_645_zpsb9634faa.jpg
 
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