Ross's Jeep that will take longer than Rob's to build thread...

[ktm racer 419]

if you guys are making fun of his welds you should take a look at some of mine. they may not be the prettiest, but they are all there

but i dont care , they are the only thing on my jeep that doesnt seem to break lols

 

[MoparManiac]

I find it funny because he tried to make fun of my welds.

 

[vetteboy]

I got fiddy cents that says you're gonna be doing more work to that upper link mount.

 

[MoparManiac]

Doubtful. Pushing it around the driveway isn't going to hurt it since that's all it'll ever do.

 

[rweaver138]

Alright I gave you money now buy parts and finish this damn thing!

 

[chedisme]

yea Whats up with this? Progress? Im almost willing to bet Ill have my 60 in my jeep before you get yours wheel-able.

 

[chedisme]

Oh I just had an awesome idea. Just paint red jeep black and call it done! no one will know the difference!

 

[foxwar71]

No work on the jeep lately, just buying cool parts for it. I decided to get some 3" travel Profender airbumps for the front though. Once those come in I'm gunna rebuild the upper coil buckets and make some fancy T&J-style mounts for the 7100's. I'm running outta fancy cool parts to buy, I gotta start actaully putting them on the jeep.

 

[twodoorXJ]

Putting the cool parts on is the hard part

 

[MoparManiac]

Beating the shit out of the cool parts is the fun part

 

[eflores]

whats the dealio with this build???

 

[foxwar71]

Cool parts and no updates. 50+ hr work weeks are kicking my ass. Ill make an update when the airbumps and 7100's are in.

 

[foxwar71]

Thats right, I decided to buy some Profender 2.0 3" travel airbumps. Got some 2.375"x.188" tubing to use as mounting cans, drilled and tapped for set screws to hold the bump in too. Cut off the stock coil tower and put the tubing thru it, I'll add some more plating and gusseting. Starting building mounts up for the 12" shortbody 7100's. The upper mounts will be like THESE. I got the inside sleeve/plate done, gotta make the outer plate to double sheer the bolt.

Note: The axle and shock is setup at full bump. The bump can is located at where it'll be too, the bump itself is still pressurized. The 3" tall piece of wood under it will be replaced with a 6" tall (to compensate for the 3" stroke) piece of 3.5" OD UHMW rod.

 

[cracker]

Why don't you just run coil overs at that point?

 

[MoparManiac]

Cause he's a dummy.

 

[foxwar71]

:gee:

 

[vetteboy]

I said the same thing.

How much uptravel to you think you're gonna get before you're into the bumpstops?

P.S. Don't make your bumpstop pads 6" tall unless you feel like bending whatever they're mounted to. Split the difference best you can between the top & bottom. HowTF do you have that much more space in there than I did? Is your jeep enormous?

 

[MoparManiac]

You're forgetting his big dumb truss and full high steer.

 

[foxwar71]

How much uptravel to you think you're gonna get before you're into the bumpstops?

P.S. Don't make your bumpstop pads 6" tall unless you feel like bending whatever they're mounted to. Split the difference best you can between the top & bottom. HowTF do you have that much more space in there than I did? Is your jeep enormous?

Theres gunna be like 4-5" of uptravel, 3" stroke of the bump and at least 1" of gap between the pad.


I was gunna do the lower pads like yours with some 1/2" B7 threaded rod and the ~6" tall UHMW. At full bump, that puts the meeting point of top and bottom roughly in the center of the coil. I want to try to avoid bringing the bump lower so it doesnt hang up the coil. I guess I could lower it another like 2" maybe, its not tacked in yet.

 

[kastein]

just duct tape a couple pieces of foam rubber to your oil pan and truss. I don't see a reason for airbumps.