Rocker Arm Chatter. Pic/Vids and questions

[Ecomike]

IIRC it is easy to accidentally miss the lifter and drop the rod to the side of the lifter. Maybe more so on the lowest lifter. Can you use a magnet to retrieve the rod, and try again, to see if the lifter is really collapsed?

If you replace one lifter, replace them all, if you replace the lifters, replace the CAM as well!!!!!! At that point, you might as well replace the timing chain and gears, and have the head serviced, and new valve seals installed!!!!

Also be sure and use a high zinc, ZDDP, break in grease on the bearing surfaces and a high ZDDP break in oil.

 

[Ecomike]

Sure it didn't just go off to the side of the lifter?

I am thinking the same thing. When I did the 89 head job, IIRC one or two of the rods were easy to drop off to the side, probably because those two were the lowest lifters at the time. I also recall it being a little scary, like I might loose one of the push rods!

 

[DannyRoark89]

ya i was planning on inspecting all the bearings and seals and all that jazz, well if thats the suggested route maybe ill just be a noisy mofo for the next 6-8 weeks as i prepare for a stroker build. the time it takes to pull the head is the least of my concern but getting wrapped up in whatever is under the head is my concern now, i dont want to get in their and realize the hole damn thing needs a rebuild, and then drop some cash on that just to turn around and rebuild it again for the 4.7 build.

would there be a huge risk in just replacing the lifters and then driving it for the next couple months as i gear up for the stroker build. i am looking towards the end of august when ill park it for a week or so to do the build, i am capable of doing all the machining so i wont need to wait on a shop, but i will have to work around the 'expert' machinists schedule since i would feel 100% better knowing hes looking over my shoulder ready to hit me with knock out gas before i screw something up. but im confident in my abilities too.

i just dont want to do anything really besides the lifters right now. its like it happened at the lamest time. its that gray area between when it needs to be tore down and when you are able to throw down the cash todo it.

 

[DannyRoark89]

ya i was planning on inspecting all the bearings and seals and all that jazz, well if thats the suggested route maybe ill just be a noisy mofo for the next 6-8 weeks as i prepare for a stroker build. the time it takes to pull the head is the least of my concern but getting wrapped up in whatever is under the head is my concern now, i dont want to get in their and realize the hole damn thing needs a rebuild, and then drop some cash on that just to turn around and rebuild it again for the 4.7 build.

would there be a huge risk in just replacing the lifters and then driving it for the next couple months as i gear up for the stroker build. i am looking towards the end of august when ill park it for a week or so to do the build, i am capable of doing all the machining so i wont need to wait on a shop, but i will have to work around the 'expert' machinists schedule since i would feel 100% better knowing hes looking over my shoulder ready to hit me with knock out gas before i screw something up. but im confident in my abilities too.

i just dont want to do anything really besides the lifters right now. its like it happened at the lamest time. its that gray area between when it needs to be tore down and when you are able to throw down the cash todo it.

 

[bugout]

:new: I'm new here. I've finally gotten into an XJ...been waiting a long time. I'm in a 96 country with 200kplus. The guy I bought it form claimed that 30k ago he purchased cheap from a kid that ran it hot and cracked the head. He claims he replaced the head "verified" and the valve train "not verified yet". When the motor runs at idle, with the hood open, I here a faint "ticking" kind of like the sound a really small diesel engine makes. When I close the hood I can barley hear it and when I get in and close the door I can't hear it at all. Is this the typical lifter tick that I've read about 4.0s getting after 100k miles or something worse. I changed the oil the day I got it. He says he was running a 10-30 syn/blend. The oil was dirty but not burned. I put an oversized Purolator in there along with some Rotella 15-40. It's hot in Fla this time of year. The tick did not get any better or worse after the oil change but it did smoothe out the idle.

 

[cruiser54]

Run it for 3K miles and see what happens.

 

[bugout]

:new:What do you think SHOULD happen????? I was asking if this is normal? If not I would like to remedy it asap. I was desperate for an XJ and jumped on this one head first. This is my first and I havent figured out all of the little excenticities. What does yours do???

 

[MoFo]

It would be unusual to find an XJ without a little valve tick. My advice would be to keep the oil fresh and drive it like you stole it.

 

[bugout]

Anyrecommendations for pouring anything in the crankcase a couple days prior to the oil change? MMO, Seafoam, transmission fluid etc....I did run 1/3 of a can of Seafoam through the brake vacume booster line and didnt smoke at all. I suspect he did replace the head but cleaned and used the existing parts instead of replacing. Feelings???

 

[MoFo]

ya i was planning on inspecting all the bearings and seals and all that jazz, well if thats the suggested route maybe ill just be a noisy mofo for the next 6-8 weeks as i prepare for a stroker build. the time it takes to pull the head is the least of my concern but getting wrapped up in whatever is under the head is my concern now, i dont want to get in their and realize the hole damn thing needs a rebuild, and then drop some cash on that just to turn around and rebuild it again for the 4.7 build.

would there be a huge risk in just replacing the lifters and then driving it for the next couple months as i gear up for the stroker build. i am looking towards the end of august when ill park it for a week or so to do the build, i am capable of doing all the machining so i wont need to wait on a shop, but i will have to work around the 'expert' machinists schedule since i would feel 100% better knowing hes looking over my shoulder ready to hit me with knock out gas before i screw something up. but im confident in my abilities too.

i just dont want to do anything really besides the lifters right now. its like it happened at the lamest time. its that gray area between when it needs to be tore down and when you are able to throw down the cash todo it.

You have to pull the head off to change the lifters. You can recover the push rod while you are in there. The Victor Rienz head gasket at rock auto is the thin one you will want for the stroker. Might as well order 2 while you are there.

 

[Ecomike]

When the tick gets 100 times louder, then it will be TYPICAL!!!!! LOL

:new: I'm new here. I've finally gotten into an XJ...been waiting a long time. I'm in a 96 country with 200kplus. The guy I bought it form claimed that 30k ago he purchased cheap from a kid that ran it hot and cracked the head. He claims he replaced the head "verified" and the valve train "not verified yet". When the motor runs at idle, with the hood open, I here a faint "ticking" kind of like the sound a really small diesel engine makes. When I close the hood I can barley hear it and when I get in and close the door I can't hear it at all. Is this the typical lifter tick that I've read about 4.0s getting after 100k miles or something worse. I changed the oil the day I got it. He says he was running a 10-30 syn/blend. The oil was dirty but not burned. I put an oversized Purolator in there along with some Rotella 15-40. It's hot in Fla this time of year. The tick did not get any better or worse after the oil change but it did smoothe out the idle.

 

[Ecomike]

:new:What do you think SHOULD happen????? I was asking if this is normal? If not I would like to remedy it asap. I was desperate for an XJ and jumped on this one head first. This is my first and I havent figured out all of the little excenticities. What does yours do???

Normal is one hell of a lot louder, LOL. Enjoy it and take a chill pill. :wave:

Mine sounded like a high speed nail gun 7 years ago, it sounds like a loud sewing machine now, after going from 224,000 miles to 281,000. The rocker surfaces wear with age, and start to click from the looseness in the valve train. I could drive a bus through the slop in mine now, LOL. And it still runs fine. Just stick with the oil the prior owner was using, and change it at the proper intervals. Don't waste time and money fixing what is not broken. Drive it before it remembers it is a JEEP and other stuff starts giving you trouble.Hasta

 

[bugout]

:new: Thanks!!! Most friendly response Ive had yet!!! I think I'll stay with the Rotella 15-40 for now it's hot and humid down here and I get it whole sale from a buddy.

I've though about running an oil cooler beside the transmission cooler to help with the temps down here....trying to make it heat proof before I make it bullet proof.

 

[Ecomike]

:new: Thanks!!! Most friendly response Ive had yet!!! I think I'll stay with the Rotella 15-40 for now it's hot and humid down here and I get it whole sale from a buddy.

I've though about running an oil cooler beside the transmission cooler to help with the temps down here....trying to make it heat proof before I make it bullet proof.

Before you do that, check the exhaust system very closely for any cracks on the exhaust manifold (common on our jeeps) or leaks at the flange donut that blow hot exhaust on the block. Make sure the AC condenser and radiator fins are clean enough to eat off of, LOL.

If you are running synthetic oil, you really do not need an oil cooler. You might want to do a transfusion, 3 quart drain and fill of the AW4 transmission fluid (use Dex III)., I am assuming it is automatic?
And I suggest starting a new thread for discussions like this, and return this thread to the OP on valve train noise.

 

[bugout]

You assume correctly!!! The original AW4 with 200k plus on it or IN it