rock krawler 3 link....reviews

BlackJax said:
The mounts ripped in half. The welds were not the issue, they stayed put. It's the material itself that was the weak point. He is probably the best welder I know. I've been welding since I was 11 years old.
Click to expand...

Im sorry man but I call BS on that one w/o pics... 1/4" mild steel ripping in half... :bs:
 
I have the setup on my heep. Nice., the arms are beefy as hell. I guess it would flex a lot if i got long enough shocks and some steering that wasn't stock.

Problems:
I have now broken all of the grease zerks that came with it.
Mine didn't come with sleeves and I crushed my frame rails a bit.
I have very rough roads where I live and it clunks a whole lot. I figured this was because of worn upper CA bushings, but i have since replaced those with new and there was little change.
I ripped the Passenger side LCA mount off of the axle because of the additional stress there.
Removing the stock UCA frame mounts was a MAJOR PITA!
 
goodburbon said:
I have the setup on my heep. Nice., the arms are beefy as hell. I guess it would flex a lot if i got long enough shocks and some steering that wasn't stock.

Problems:
I have now broken all of the grease zerks that came with it.
Mine didn't come with sleeves and I crushed my frame rails a bit.
I have very rough roads where I live and it clunks a whole lot. I figured this was because of worn upper CA bushings, but i have since replaced those with new and there was little change.
I ripped the Passenger side LCA mount off of the axle because of the additional stress there.
Removing the stock UCA frame mounts was a MAJOR PITA!
Click to expand...


The grease zirks it comes with are a joke. I couldn't find replacements for them anywhere. So I said fawk it and I drilled out the existing and upped the size to a standard. Now I can find plenty of replacements and they don't break if you blow on them like the ones they came with did.

I did find it odd that when I called RockKrawler to see about replacements that one of their techs said it wasn't possible to drill them out and up the zirks to a standard size. He tried to make me feel like an idiot for even suggesting the idea. I didn't appreciate that, but thats history now.

In all, I like the kit and my jeep flexes like mad. I am a bit concerned on the upper arms mount at the frame rail, with it only being bolt in there. There is a lot of stress on that single mount (I know cause I struggled with the axle to get the arm installed), so I will be upgrading that part of the install.

My kit didn't come with the crush preventing sleeves. I guess it was an add-on they gave out later on. I can fix it easily myself tho.
 
goodburbon said:
I have the setup on my heep. Nice., the arms are beefy as hell. I guess it would flex a lot if i got long enough shocks and some steering that wasn't stock.

Problems:
1. I have now broken all of the grease zerks that came with it.
2. Mine didn't come with sleeves and I crushed my frame rails a bit.
3. I have very rough roads where I live and it clunks a whole lot. I figured this was because of worn upper CA bushings, but i have since replaced those with new and there was little change.
4. I ripped the Passenger side LCA mount off of the axle because of the additional stress there.
5. Removing the stock UCA frame mounts was a MAJOR PITA!
Click to expand...

To start with.. flex is very good with stock(ish) steering (TRE's, etc.) and trackbar... but go and change everything to HEIMS and its unbelievable!

1. I never even installed mine in the kit b/c I new they would just get ripped off on the first rock... RK even recommended not installing them when I spoke with them until being used.

2. Me either.. but I havent noticed any issues with the frame rail being crushed

3. clunks? what version of the kit do you have (krawler joints all around)... if so that's the nature of the beast running heims or KJ's all around. My whole steering is heims and makes interesting noises until I got used to it.

4. I DEFINETLY RECOMMEND installing atleast some JKS LCA skids when installing this.. the stock mounts are weak and boxing them in helps A LOT.

5. Yeah I know your feeling.. I did the whole thing w/ an angle grinder and a sawzall... Only to remember after I was finished... why not just use a plasma cutter :tears:


WAXER:

All the techs I've talked to have been pretty knowlegeable, or if they didnt know what they were talking to they found someone who did... dont know?

As for the upper mount.. mine didnt seem to be under near the stress you're talking about? at ride height I can remove it very easily? I have however changed the krawler heim to a new QA1 heim b/c the RK heim isnt the greatest quality IMO.


ALSO:

I've considered stitch welding the upper frame mount on the unibody? bad idea? OR atleast on the outside of the frame rail... the inside is pretty close the to fuel lines, etc.
 
uncc civilengineer said:
WAXER:


As for the upper mount.. mine didnt seem to be under near the stress you're talking about? at ride height I can remove it very easily? I have however changed the krawler heim to a new QA1 heim b/c the RK heim isnt the greatest quality IMO.
Click to expand...

By stress, I mean the forces it's encountering while trying to keep the axle vertical. If I were to disconnect the upper arm from it's mount on the frame, the axle will want to tilt forward, which is why you must use a jackstand to support it before taking off the upper arm.

I like your idea of stitch welding the upper mount in as well. Those fuel lines can be pulled back quite a bit and can be wrapped up to make them safe. I'll take a look at this to see about getting that done.
 
I have had these for about 6 months and LOVE them. Here is a link to my install:
http://picasaweb.google.com/Jeppler3/LongArmsFrameRails
Heres some pics of wheelin right after installing them:
http://picasaweb.google.com/Jeppler3/PresedentsDayWeekend

I sleeved the frame rails at the same time, and also later boxed in the LCA mounts. I ripped the tiny zirk fittings off the first time wheelin. right away I drilled and tapped them for the larger normal size, but then ripped them off again. Later I welded the zirk holes up and relocated them to a better place and now it will be impossible to rip them off. You will want to take the krawler joint apart BEFORE the install and grease it up really good. TRUST ME, you cant get enough grease coating the ball in there unless you loosen the thing up. This will make a considerable reduction in the road noise transmitted into the cab as well. LIke everyone else, getting the old LCA mounts off the "frame" was the hardest part, but this is the same for any long arm kit. I got mine (LA upgrade) for $450 and it has been the best money spent on the jeep.

-Jerry
 
wishihad1 said:
so does everybody sleeve the frame rails like that before installing. i dont know if i have the access to that metal, or the ability to do it
Click to expand...

TNT makes sleeves that work very well, or you can simply by some 3/16" steel and box the rails. I used the TNT sleeves as a starting point and then boxed them in the end. Oops! I said TNT again, I'll probably stir up the RK fanboys with this one too. ;) :D

The LCA miniskid idea is a good one, it does add a lot of strength to the pathetic stock LCA mounts D30.

:listenmus
 
Shomsky462 said:
ive jumped my xj at pismo, wheeled the rubicon with them, etc...
my welds look like bird crap gorilla droppings and no cracking, no tearing, no nothing. ive just started to weld about a year ago and i installed my rk setup about 6 months ago. so yeah...
the rail? you mean the sheetmetal some call a frame? i would think that the "frame" would rip out/off if anything, but i dont know.

i like it and would recomend it.
-Shomsky
Click to expand...

Bird crap gorilla droppings, gonna have to remember that one :)
 
There's no reason why they shouldn't be, unless you do not know what you are doing (welding experience).

It was probably redesigned that way to reach a larger customer base, as not everyone is capable of welding.

I welded mine quite successfully and plan on doing the same to the upper mount (after plating the frame in that area).
 
Gotta bring this one back from the dead I have a strange problem with my kit my upper link and driveshaft meet with horrendous results as in Im taking chunks of the solid stock upper arm and the driveshaft yolk when they collide...I only happens when I get full stuff on the driverside and thats because my bumpstops no longer hit like they are supposed too... They seem to miss off to the the side of each other and I think that causing my problem...

Ive tried rockkrawler and theyre no help, Ive tried a local shop and he said because Im using a re trackbar the heavyduty one and re 4.5 spring with a .75 spacer that that causing all my problems he said that because i didnt get the kit I just got an upgrade that it wouldnt all work together...Ive dialed some more caster in Im thinking about 6 degrees or so I know that I have pinion vibes from the front trying to get the yoke away from the upper link..I have also moved the trackbar as far as I can to the passenger side as I could but then I hit the header and dented it a little so I moved it back over...


Ideas anyone Im beginning to think the install was done wrong...:worship:
 
themud said:
Gotta bring this one back from the dead I have a strange problem with my kit my upper link and driveshaft meet with horrendous results as in Im taking chunks of the solid stock upper arm and the driveshaft yolk when they collide...I only happens when I get full stuff on the driverside and thats because my bumpstops no longer hit like they are supposed too... They seem to miss off to the the side of each other and I think that causing my problem...

Ive tried rockkrawler and theyre no help, Ive tried a local shop and he said because Im using a re trackbar the heavyduty one and re 4.5 spring with a .75 spacer that that causing all my problems he said that because i didnt get the kit I just got an upgrade that it wouldnt all work together...Ive dialed some more caster in Im thinking about 6 degrees or so I know that I have pinion vibes from the front trying to get the yoke away from the upper link..I have also moved the trackbar as far as I can to the passenger side as I could but then I hit the header and dented it a little so I moved it back over...


Ideas anyone Im beginning to think the install was done wrong...:worship:
Click to expand...

I have no issues whatsoever and even w/ a LP Waggy 44... I'm at 6" w/ full heim steering also..
 
i had a similar problem when i first did the install, but after dialing in a little more caster (at about 6*) its all good now.
I also have RE 4.5 springs & am running ACOS set at nearly mimimum lift (so maybe 1.25"). i also run about 3.5" of lower bumstopping. Perfect stuff with 35's.
Hmmm.... sounds wierd that no matter what you are adjusting, you cant seem to find a solution. But id look into a little more bumpstopping for sure..... i think you may find your answer there.
 
uncc civilengineer said:
I have no issues whatsoever and even w/ a LP Waggy 44... I'm at 6" w/ full heim steering also..
Click to expand...
That's why you won't have any problems. With a hi pinion, the pinion/ujoint sometimes hits the upper link depending on the specific setup.
 
mattyj said:
i had a similar problem when i first did the install, but after dialing in a little more caster (at about 6*) its all good now.
I also have RE 4.5 springs & am running ACOS set at nearly mimimum lift (so maybe 1.25"). i also run about 3.5" of lower bumstopping. Perfect stuff with 35's.
Hmmm.... sounds wierd that no matter what you are adjusting, you cant seem to find a solution. But id look into a little more bumpstopping for sure..... i think you may find your answer there.
Click to expand...


The guy the shop who looked at it said I dont have enough lift he thinks I should be at least at 6" I dont want or need to go that high Ive dialed in so much caster that Ive got front vibes at 70 from the front as far as bumpstops Ive got RE 2" lower bumpstops and under that Ive got 3 count em 3 hockey pucks per side for a total of 5" of bumpstops and cant get the damn things to hit one another they miss one another and just kind of skip off the sides...It almost seems like the axle is rotating or moving side to side under compression and that is messing with the bumpstop geometry, I was told it could be my trackbar but I sure as hell dont think Im the only one with a RE trackbar and a rockkrawler 3 link and be the only one having problems...

I also dont understand how my trackbar could be causing the problem?? they arc seems fine at least on the stuff part?? It seems like I have to thread the driveshaft yoke inbetween the headers and upper link and there is just no damn room to stuff it up there...Btw I have borla headers with their down pipe...
 
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