Ripping out the A/C, questions.

JKTXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Boise, ID
OK, my A/C compressor locked up 2 years ago and I have come to grips with the fact that I am not going to fix the A/C in this rig. So, I wanna remove it... namely the cooler in front of the radiator. I would like to get that out of there so that I get more airflow through the radiator at crawling speeds on those hot Moab days of wheeling. Can I just have the freon evac'd and then pull the lines and remove the cooler? I assume so since I am not worried about contamination getting in the lines (the A/C never will be used again). Could probably even pull all the lines and stuff too, right? I am sure this shouldn't be a prob, but want some advice before I do it and go "uh-oh." BTW, not interested in converting to on board air, already have CO2 which I like far better. TIA, JP
 
JKTXJ said:
OK, my A/C compressor locked up 2 years ago and I have come to grips with the fact that I am not going to fix the A/C in this rig. So, I wanna remove it... namely the cooler in front of the radiator. I would like to get that out of there so that I get more airflow through the radiator at crawling speeds on those hot Moab days of wheeling. Can I just have the freon evac'd and then pull the lines and remove the cooler? I assume so since I am not worried about contamination getting in the lines (the A/C never will be used again). Could probably even pull all the lines and stuff too, right? I am sure this shouldn't be a prob, but want some advice before I do it and go "uh-oh." BTW, not interested in converting to on board air, already have CO2 which I like far better. TIA, JP

Being one of those types who likes their creature comforts I would have the AC fixed but thats your choice. To remove it I would have the system evacuated then while at the AC shop thats doing it I would pick up some of the plastic plugs that come on most ac components to keep stuff out and cap the lines going thru the firewall to the box inside so that if you change your mind later on or resell it it is not an irreversible thing. Start removing the components and tape the ends with duct tape on a good hot day after they have been in the sun and are hot, this should bake any moisture out.
Might want to put a switch in the electric fan ckt so you can turn it on from inside too. Tape over and mark any electrical connections and get them out of the way, no reason to do a hack job, box and label the components for possible future use. Thats about all I can think of..
 
I just butched into my trailrig's AC converting to OBA.

I agree with RichP, have a shop purge the gas...A good one will test it and keep it if it's good. Mine had no charge in it at all so I just removed everything between the pump and the firewall. I need to plug those ports ;) thanks for reminding.

I reused the condenser as a divorced tranny cooler. If yours isn't leaking, it's worth some $$ just by itself (as a BIG aux cooler or a crash replacement part)

Non-AC 4.0l have a bracket and pulley that bolt up in place of the AC pump.
 
Just a thought, but pulling the electrical connector at the compressor (in my 88), then turning on the A/C switch at the HVAC controls, will up your idle a little, broading the injector pulse and turn on the aux fan, through the A/C relay. Before I installed the bypass switch, to the thermo switch in my radiator, to manualy turn on the aux fan; When doing a lot of low speed wheeling, I´d unplug the compressor connector and turn the A/C switch on, idle would go up a little, the motor would run a touch richer and the aux fan would come on, worked well for me. The 94 may work pretty much the same.
 
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Thanks 8Mud!

I was going to wire my 89's fan into a toggle switch, but if it can be turned on at the dash AC switch, and it also fattens up the mixture, that's Real Good News.
 
The only real down side, is it does idle a little high, the inside fan stays on and it probably costs a little gas.
But if you don´t have a remote switch to turn on your aux fan, it is better than overheating.
 
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