Replacing Lower Control Arm Mounts

NW99XJ

NW99XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Gresham, Or.
I've been toying around with this idea for a while now....
My lower CA mounts are beat to hell. Not broken, but still, I should prob do something about them before it's too late.
I want to get some opinions/different points of view.
Here's the options I'm looking at.... lemme know if you have any experience, or preferences on any of these or what has worked well for YOU in the past.
Right now I'm leaning towards either the Artec (for the features) or Ballistic (for the price)
NOTE: I know some of you have "Brand Preferences" - I'm not looking for that.
Nor am I looking for the typical "why don't you cut them out yourself"
(i will take that into consideration if you have a CAD template or something similar to offer)
I'm looking for actual testimonials here....
Thanks in advance.

CLAYTON OFFROAD $69
MADE FROM 1/4"
AB-HDFL.jpg


TNT CUSTOMS $25
MADE FROM 3/16"
lowercontrolarmmountsSTD.jpg


BALLISTIC FAB. $35
MADE FROM 1/4"


CURRIE ENT. $35.00
MADE FROM 3/16"
CE-7111.jpg


RUFFSTUFF $30.00
MADE FROM 1/4"
IMG_0507.jpg


LIQUID IRON IDUSTRIES $24.50
MADE FROM 1/4"
image.php


ARTEC IND. $55
MADE FROM 1/4"
imagemagic.php


RUSTY'S $59
MADE FROM 1/4"
RC-LCM1_3.jpg


>
If there's something I missed, please feel free to post it up.
 
Thicker is better. Built in control arm skids are worth the price. XJ's don't have caster adjusting bolts, so you can skip the last two from Rusty's/Artec.

Supporting NAXJA sponsors is always a good idea. My JCR Offroad DIY bumper just showed up today.
 
NW99XJ said:
My lower CA mounts are beat to hell. Not broken, but still, I should prob do something about them before it's too late.
Click to expand...
How fubar'd are they?

If they aren't tweaked and bent too bad, I'd suggest just boxing them in. JKS sells their "Mini Skid's" that are weld on. They tie the two sides together, and also the axle tube itself. Just another thought.
 
I don't have any but I do plan to do this to mine but do you have any scrap metal that's 3/16 or 1/4? If so I would imagine it would be cheapest and best to buy the cheapest thickest ones without skids and just make your own skids from the scrap metal and weld it on.
 
I have the TNT ones - got them as part of a D44 truss project. I have not changed or repaired anything on them since 2007 and they are still straight. And I wheel a lot. :flipoff:

Any of the ones listed will be miles above the stock sheet metal jokes. Replace them whatever you do. The TNT's have worked great for me.
 
@Torx:
The stock ones are still straight, meaning they're not bent over and/or ready to be sheared off.
....HOWEVER, the ends that protrude past the diameter of the Control Arm End are basically completely folded over and curved/flared out, from being drug over rocks and what-not.
So at this point, whenever I hit rocks/obstacles, they drag over the control arm ends themselves. Not the most ideal situation I know, hence why I need to do something about this.
I WOULD much rather stick with the thicker (1/4" material) variety, I know 3/16" is still a far cry better than the sheet metal stock of whats on there now.... but 1/4" would give me that confidence that I'm not going to have to worry about them for a while (if ever.)
Making my own skids for them after the fact IS something I can and will do.
Good stuff so far guys, keep it coming.
(i'll try to get a pic or two up soon of what the current condition of these things are.)
 
I would go with Ruffstuff. Specially since they are having a sale right meow!
 
I run the ballistic ones as they came with the xj front axle bracket kit I bought for my Dana 44 swap. They've been hit several times and are no worse for wear.
 
I have experience with at least 3 of the products in your list.

I used the brackets that I believe were from Currie. (It was a long time ago.) The only thing "wrong" with them is the cut was for a 3" radius and the XJ Dana 30 is 2.5". I was sleeving my Dana 30 at the time so this worked well for me. Check to make sure as this might have changed. Otherwise good product.

I currently have Ballistic mounts for my rear axle (4-link). They are massive which is both good and bad. They are still 1/4" which is good but there is a lot of un-needed material.

I currently have Ruff Stuff mounts on my front axle, which happen to be zero degree offset for my 3-link. These are also for a 3" axle tube or larger so again, not sure if they have 2.5" radius for the Dana 30 and I'm too lazy to look. These are good mounts also.

One issue is several of these are not sold as XJ replacement mounts but are generic mounts that you typically mount level with the axle tubes. Stock mounts position the joint lower than the tube as you know.
 
I used ballistic coil/control ARM mounts. I had a terrible experience with them. I had a whole thread over it. And the product description didn't match the actual product. Everything works, it was just so much of a hassle, i wouldn't want to deal with it again.
Search thread titles for "ballistic fab" and I'm sure youll find my thread
 
I wouldn't box in the stockies, once they failed on me they were just garbage, like literally garbage, wtf. anyway I have the last ones you listed, work fine there is some play in that stupid slot the bolt fits in but when your sitting level the bolts are pushed forward all the way, I only notice travel there when towing or doing major crawling but it goes right back. no worries!
 
0tagg78 said:
I wouldn't box in the stockies, once they failed on me they were just garbage, like literally garbage, wtf. anyway I have the last ones you listed, work fine there is some play in that stupid slot the bolt fits in but when your sitting level the bolts are pushed forward all the way, I only notice travel there when towing or doing major crawling but it goes right back. no worries!
Click to expand...

if you use the TJ style mount you also need to use the TJ's Cam bolt Caster adjuster at the axle as well. This will prevent the play you speak of.
 
I have the rock krawler lca mounts and love them. 1/4" thick, built in skid for $75. I bought mine off quadratec but you could probably find them cheaper if you look. Qtec p/n is 16189 8114.
 
Devilfrog said:
if you use the TJ style mount you also need to use the TJ's Cam bolt Caster adjuster at the axle as well. This will prevent the play you speak of.
Click to expand...

There is such a thing as a cam bolt eliminator. But, I agree on why run that when you can run something that does not have the cam adjuster.
 
Johnnie Walker said:
There is such a thing as a cam bolt eliminator. But, I agree on why run that when you can run something that does not have the cam adjuster.
Click to expand...

yes, but from his post it sounds like he isn't using one of those either, but I totally agree ... why make it more complicated than it needs to be.

0tagg78 said:
I wouldn't box in the stockies, once they failed on me they were just garbage, like literally garbage, wtf. anyway I have the last ones you listed, work fine there is some play in that stupid slot the bolt fits in but when your sitting level the bolts are pushed forward all the way, I only notice travel there when towing or doing major crawling but it goes right back. no worries!
Click to expand...

In reality, you can easily make your own out of 3" x 3/16" wall box tube, a 9/16" drill bit and a 2.5" hole saw.
 
Last edited:
Well as much as I would have liked to take advantage of the 20% off sale at Ruff Stuff, When I called them this morning I was told they don't make the brackets in the 2.5" diameter version..
Yes, I suppose the 3" tube diameter version COULD work, by tacking them in place at the center of the tangent of the two arcs.....then filling in the gap as they're burnt in.
This isn't an "ideal" solution, and I'd rather do it right, than just "make it work" for this.
I also called Artec, and spoke with they guys there. They've very helpful. The R&D dept IS working on a NON-cam-bolt version, but it's still in the works, and they have no release date yet.
So, because I wanted 1/4" and some sort of skid material with the brackets, I have decided to go with the Ballistic's.... I even managed to get 10% off....hey something's better than nothing, right?
They should be here sometime this week.
I will of course be posting up pics of the whole process after they come in.
In the interests of keeping this thread up to date for others who may turn here for guidance, I would say lets keep the reviews and experiences coming.

*** thank you everyone for all your feedback ***
 
Figured I would share with you guys the reason I have started in on the research and subsequent buying of some new lower control arm mounts.......

Mine are TRAAAAAASHED!


At this point I will have to get in there with the grand daddy of all channel locks and try to bend this stuff back down JUST to get to the nut.


Seriously, that is gonna be a chore, sheet metal or not, these are still pretty stout.


They have served me well, but they are just not meant for, or designed to handle the rigors of more serious offroad adventures, and moderate rock crawling.


Luckily for me, my control arms ARE....had these been stock arms, or some no-name fly by night BS....I prob wouldn't be here to type this.
 
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