relocating the battery

[dennisuello]

i want to move my battery to the rear of my XJ to make room for York under the hood. i would have just gotten a longer + cable and grounded the battery to the floor in the back, but I have couple accessories running directly to the battery now (winch, lights). how should i go about wiring them? i need iseas.

thanks

 

[giranger]

Not sure on the wiring but I did the same thing, check out my site grapeape.myjeeppage.com hope this helps, you just kinda have to click on the tech pages to see everything. theres two pages just for OBA and the other two tech pages should be the rest. Also you can use welding cable for the battery cables, cheaper at around 0.80/foot. Thats upgrading the wiring in the process. Good luck and ask if you have any ?'s Jeff CamoXJ

 

[4ward]

You can use the welding cable like suggested and run it to a remote post in the engine compartment. That's what I'm doin'.

Sean

 

[dennisuello]

You can use the welding cable like suggested and run it to a remote post in the engine compartment.

where did you get the remote post and how did you mount it?

 

[STRYKER]

I got a really neat tool box for the driver's side under the spare on my stepside made outta diamondplate. I plan on building a matching diamond plate box on the passenger side and running a couple of Optimas and an isolator in it. Just need the hot to the location it comes from in stock location and a ground to chassis....right? I wire everything else thru the ignition to avoid a clutter at the battery.

 

[5-90]

As long as your ground chain is solid thruout the vehicle, you can ground ALL of your batteries to the chassis and be fine, and only need seperate the "hot" leads for any splitting purposes (backup/deep cycle/whatever else needs some sort of isolator.)

Remote posts for power distribution can be had from Gall's Public Safgety Supply (www.galls.com) for reasonable prices, I don't use anything smaller than a 5/16" post size. They are brass, so corrosion is a minor issue (if at all) and there is little to no galvanic action from heat and dissimilar metals (most contacts are copper, and brass is mostly copper anyhow.)

I do highly recommend getting happy with cable sizes - a larger gage wire or two won't make enough extra weight to really matter with our application, and it's easier to run them once than twice! I use 2/0 welder cable for ALL main power, and I haven't even moved the battery yet...

5-90