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Reloading and 'lead-free' primers . . .

ZomBrady

Chubby Chaser Extraordinaire
NAXJA Member
Location
Albuquerque
So, I've started reloading and my worry-wart of a wife is concerned that our kids will be exposed to lead residue from the shells I collect for reloading. I've done a little research and 'see' that there are 'lead-free' primers out there. . .

So do any of you have experience with 'lead-free' primers? Are there any brand-names that you recommend?

Thanks.

~Brady
 
I'm not a doctor (nor do I play one on the interwebs) but I thought only the lead vapors were a (minimal) danger when inhaled....? In indoor ranges without proper ventilation you are required to shoot only jacketed bullets- no restrictions on primers. If she's still concerned about the brass just wash them before, uh, ingesting.

My kids are my prime brass sorters, so I'm clear over here on the other side of the fence from you.
 
"Lead-free" means they don't use lead styphnate in the primer cake anymore, although I don't know what they do use. Granted, I think it's only a problem if you shoot large quantities of rounds indoors, and the ventilation sucks (that's just a guess - someone please correct me if I am wrong!)

Lead styphnate replaced potassium perchlorate (I think) due to the chlorate primers being corrosive - lead styphnate doesn't promote corrosion.

As far as a favourite brand, I think by now most primers are 'lead-free' - although I still favour CCI primers.

If you're worried about lead, switch to a hollow-point or a TMJ pill, which will have the jacket over the base of the bullet and will help to prevent lead ablation on discharge - which usually frees up more lead into the atmosphere than the few microgrammes you get from the primers.
 
Lead from reloading is kind of part of it, basic safety measures need to be followed, no eating, drinking or smoking when it's going on, keep your hands away from your face once you start. Wash well when done and that includes your clothes. Just did 600 rounds on thursday nite, 400 FMJ and 200 SWC for the .45. Now I load both jacketed and lead rounds. As for expended primers, I though mercury was a bigger issue, honestly I have not looked into what they are made of lately so I may be wrong but I've been reloading since 73-74. I'm going to be doing another 500 today/tonight for the .38 and get all that brass reloaded and off the bench.
I do one thing though, on my deprimer station I have a plastic rattle can lid that I line with a paper towel, a wet paper towel, mostly to eliminate dust from the primer just dropping out and hitting a hard surface, instead they come out and hit a wet surface, that towel does get pretty nasty after a few hundred get done.
 
As far as a favourite brand, I think by now most primers are 'lead-free' - although I still favour CCI primers.

CCI primers are nearly as hard as European primers...and have caused quite a few light strikes. Not my first primer choice. I'd pick up Winchester or Remington.
 
CCI primers are nearly as hard as European primers...and have caused quite a few light strikes. Not my first primer choice. I'd pick up Winchester or Remington.

Hm. I may not be a high-volume reloader, but I've not had any trouble with CCI. Maybe I haven't used up l my luck after all...
 
Hm. I may not be a high-volume reloader, but I've not had any trouble with CCI. Maybe I haven't used up l my luck after all...
....,or maybe the gun you're using hits hard enough to fire the primer. Military primers are also harder then standard commercial primers, and some guns have a problem with light strikes on mil-surplus ammo.
 
....,or maybe the gun you're using hits hard enough to fire the primer. Military primers are also harder then standard commercial primers, and some guns have a problem with light strikes on mil-surplus ammo.

I think that's pretty much what the issue is, too. Reduced power springs in 'tuned' guns tend to have issues with that. Mine all run full power everything for that reason (and other reliability purposes). Yes, I recovered them from the bottom of the lake. It was a bitch, but I got my firearms back. ;)
 
ECKSJAY: 'Hope there wasn't too much corrosion damage;) Probably aught to check those springs! Even on the stainless guns, the springs aren't :D
 
They turned out immaculate. :D

Got my 1911 outta the muck. The 870 still needs to be cleaned up...and the stock melted in the fire, so no pics of it yet. :D:D:D
394893354_Una83-M.jpg


Added bonus while I was down there. Look what I found. ;)
485803413_TBXHz-M.jpg
 
....,or maybe the gun you're using hits hard enough to fire the primer. Military primers are also harder then standard commercial primers, and some guns have a problem with light strikes on mil-surplus ammo.

Could very well be. Gimme firing pins with nicely rounded front ends and good strong springs to drive them. If it doesn't go "pop," I want it to be because of something I did wrong, not because the firearm isn't working properly (ramped up to a 18# recoil spring on the 1991 - dumping a mag just makes it kinda vibrate in my paw. Feels nice...)
 
My understanding is that CCI primers were (no longer) slightly larger in diameter than other brands, causing them to hang up slightly before being completely seated in the primer pocket. A firing pin would frequently seat the primer instead of setting it off.

I no longer use CCI if I can help it either because regardless of the reason, I have had 100x more problems with CCI than Federal or Winchester.
 
My understanding is that CCI primers were (no longer) slightly larger in diameter than other brands, causing them to hang up slightly before being completely seated in the primer pocket. A firing pin would frequently seat the primer instead of setting it off.

I no longer use CCI if I can help it either because regardless of the reason, I have had 100x more problems with CCI than Federal or Winchester.

I reload about 10,000 rounds of .45 per year and about 4,000 .44 mag and specials per year as well as maybe 2,000 .38's, I've pretty much just used CCI since 73 when I started. In all that time I have had [knock on wood] -0- misfires. I think the main reason I have not used any other brand is my Speer and Nosler manuals don't list any others. Plus I have never walked into a store in the NE that had any other brands in the 1,000 primer boxes. Though looking at my shelf I do see a 1000 primer box of Winchester WLR rifle primers.
 
My arsenal is slowly growing and I'd like to get into reloading.

I use to help a friend reload shotgun shells way back in the day and I understand the general principle but looking for a more detailed write up thats dummy proof b/c well I'm a dummy :)

Also I currently own a 12ga, and .40 cal pistol, and I just picked up a 7mm-08 rifle yesterday all of which I'd like to reload.

I have my fathers OLD MEC Jr. shotshell reloader but its quite rusted and beaten up so I think I am going to be looking at a new reloader.

For shotgun, I will be doing both slug and pellet reloads so I need a recommendation on a reloader for that.

I also need a recommendation for a reloader that will be suitable for both pistol and rifle reloads as well. I currently have a .40 cal pistol, I will probably end up with either a 9mm or a .45 1911 in the near future and probably a .30-06 in the near future as well.

Also if anyone has a website that has a good write up on reloads that would be awesome.

Thank you my crazy gun loving NAXJA brothers
M
 
There are basically 3 types of rifle/pistol presses, single stage, means you have one ram and one station to hold 1 die, you change the die at each step of the reloading process.
Second has a turret that holds 4-8 dies, you rotate that for each stage. Allows you to put all 2, 3 or 4 pistol dies in the turret at once. Third kind is a progressive, thats generally setup for one caliber and gives you a completed round for each pull of the handle.
Mine is an old 1970's something Texan Turret.
As for the procedure, first I decap and resize in the press with the resizing die then clean the primer pockets out. Then it goes in the tumbler/vibrator where it gets cleaned up, 4 hours or so.
Then I pull them out and run it thru the expander to open the neck up. Then I sit in front of the TV with my RCBS primer tool and prime 100-500 rounds.Then the powder measure gets filled with powder, it hangs off the side of the turret, powder in, into the press, bullet is put into the neck and the press pushes the round down to the correct depth and crimps the round in place.
Rifle takes a few steps more to trim to length, resizing is a bit harder, I reload for my .308, 8mm mauser, 30-06 and used to reload our SKS when we had it.
Stuff needed: GOOD powder scale, good press, dies for caliber, priming tool which may come with the press or may not, I prefer my RCBS hand held one, powder measure and powder trickler, very important when doing high power loads so you get it right. A good speer, Nosler or other reloading manual with the bullets you are going to use.

Shotgun reloaders, MEC is a good bargain, simple and easy to use, yours is probably still good, they have not changed in many many many years.
 
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question, should i look into a loader that does both lead and steel shotshell for shotgun?
Also can I do both slug and shotshell out of the same press as well??

And thanks for the info on the pistol/rifle setup. Have any recommendation for a single stage press, what company makes a good press for the money??

Thanks a lot for the help. Just getting started so all of this is new to me :)
 
Are you comp shooting with your shotgun? Those are the ONLY guys I know who benefit from loading their own shotshells...FWIW

Ya, kind of, walmart has federal 7 1/2 and 8 for $25 per 100 rounds. As far as steel vs lead shot, any shotgun reloader will handle both, all they do is drop the oz of shot into the hull.
As for starter presses, RCBS makes both a single stage and a turret last time I checked. I do prefer the redding press or the Lyman press over the lee.
Here is a good starter kit
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...ading presses&cm_ite=netcon&rid=0180101070502

here is a decently priced progressive though you will need a bunch of other stuff and a good scale is important, you don't need a $500 electronic one either, just a good balance type.
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...ct&cmCat=Related_IPL_216557&id=0003093211015a
 
For metallic cartridges, I lreally like my old Rock Chucker. It's open enough to handle full-length rifle cartrdiges (I've had buddies over loading 7m/m Mag and some of the big H&H jobs;) and, while it's a single-stage from the factory, it can be upgraded with a turret kit to go progressive later. I just don't load enough for the upgrade to be worthwhile to me (and most of what I've been loading is target rounds anyhow. I load more for quality control than anything else - plinking ammo is MILSURP.)
 
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