« Regearing/Relifting/RE6200- 35's DD Q's Ω

aroncull

aroncull

NAXJA Forum User
Location
North Denver, CO
I searched and read the stickies and the FAQ's and have spoke to people as well..

I need to clarify this all before i regear and complete my rear axle build up, basically- before i spend the money...

This is my Daily Driver, I drive 35 miles a day highway to work.
97 Sport I6 Auto-
Trails- rock not much for mud, regular Colorado trails otherwise [whats a regular trail?]


Plan-
Run 35's [i keep wanting them, and the wife says ok! actually she said you better- if your going to lift it higher "it will look funny if you dont" :D :thumbup: ]
currently running Metric sizing- 285/75/R16
will sell them along with the wheels and go to:

Baja Radial MTZ, 35x12.50R15LT, on soft 8- steel wheels. 15X8 with 3.75 backspacing.

Regear to 4.88

Rear end build up so far includes=
1. Dana 44 from 87 XJ
2. alloy axles 30 spline [to have spares]
3. teraflex rear disk kit
4. ARB locker
5. Differential cover/rock ring.

Front end is a D30 and i plan to build it up with a truss and axle shafts ect it will get regeared at the same time as my rearend.

Relift to RE6200 Not immediatly but within 6 months.

Options here are:
I spoke to Dirk at DPG and he put together a quote for a Hybrid kit mix of.

1pair of DPG TrailGunner Coil Springs
1pair of DPG Trailgunner leaf springs
RE9900 & RE9905 CA Drop Brackets & braces kit
RE 1550 & 1515 SS Brakelines
JKS or RE Ext Duty Trackbar (RE unit includes TB bracket)
JKS Adjustable/Articulating Lower Control Arms
JKS Adjustable/Articulating Upper Control arms
JKS Quicker Disconnects
RE U-bolt kit
DPG Adj Rear Bumpstop Plate kit
DPG Swaybar Disco cables.
RE 1383 Front Bumpstops.
OME long travel shocks [4]

Now, that is a very nice group of products- netting me true to about 5" of lift.
also providing a very nice street ride, and great off road as well [Dirk]. Cost is about $800 more then what i can get the:

RE6200 Kit for straight across, including the edlebrock/RE monotube shocks and shipping.

some mention the RE6200 kit as netting true to 6.5" of lift- and that 6.5 is a little too high [even with 35's] and COG is an issue.
The noise of the front end joints in the RE control arms, and having to rebuild them more often.

So in other words, i am confused about which route to take.

1. RE6200 as is with the RE monotubes [for now- bilstiens later] this saves me enough $ to include the SYE kit and a little more

2. Dirks hybrid-hybrid kit listed above for more $ but could be better all around


next- i plan on gearing to 4.88 for 35's on a DD. crash mentioned that is the way to go, others have agreed. will my highway suffer at all?
should i run 4.56's with the 35's for better highway and mileage?
or should i just pick the purse back up and stay with the 33's?

clearly i live AT the mountains and drive through them to get to the trails- would like to possibly pull a pop up camper too at some point

rig wieghs in at 4300# now. loaded for camping ect would put her around 4800 with full family and water and gas and blah blah blah you get the picture.

will 4.88's still be ok on 35's with that kind of wieght.

SYE plan on running an SYE with this set up and change.

steering Currently have the Currie correctlink stearing set up.

OBA Plan to install Viair heavy duty OBA kit similar to what ericsxj has- use this instead of the ARB OBA for air ups etc...

UM sorta hungry now and cant think aboiut much more so ill post this and possibly add more later or fix it if it doesnt make sense due to low blood sugar LOL:wave1: :eyes:
 
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As far as gearing goes I'm running 35" tires and 4.56 gears.That combination puts you to within 3% of how it is with stock tires and gears (235/75-15 tires, 3.55 gears).I have plenty of power and i get 19-21 mpg on the highway.
 
don't know if you have a stick or auto , but I'm running 4:88's with a auto and 32" tsl radials and @ 55mph i'm only at 22-2300 rpm's , so with 35's it would be even less.
 
Thanks for the replies guys!
Just for clarity since its lost in the huge post.. LOL
aroncull said:
This is my Daily Driver, I drive 35 miles a day highway to work.
97 Sport I6 Auto-
Click to expand...
 
I'd go strait 6200. The RE arms are better than the JKS. The DPG bumpstop plates I'm told like to bend according to the forums here, and Dirk told me himself he's kinda quick to deny the warantee on them. You want JKS disconnects - don't waste your time with anything else. The 5.5" kit does come closer to 6". I run 6.5" and 35's, it looks good and is VERY stable. I drive to work in the jeep 1-2 times a week at 75 mph (I commute ~45 miles each way). Superflex joints last a long time if they are greased even irregularly. Noise isn't something to be worrying about. Even if they do fail, it takes 10 minutes to rebuild one (I had to do one in JV this weekend, but it was due to my not tightening it down enough when I assembled it).

Do the RE trackbar, with mount and *ADD THE BRACE*

Don't forget you need to address steering at that height too. If you wanna wheel with that kind of lift, the stock geometry wont hold up very long.

Also look into getting a C-Rok or SBS steering plate.

4.88's and 35's works really well. I can drive 75, and I can tow my trailer. I'll pull 16-19 mpg depending on my right foot. :)

Rear is sagging here as its packed for a 3 day run, but you can get an idea of what 6.5" and 35's looks like

mojave%20road%202006%20145.jpg
 
I have a well seasoned RE 6200 kit and its still sitting strong at 6" and its at least 5 years old and has had the crap wheeled out of it for 3(since I had it). I am currently running a 33 and want to eventually go to a 35 but if I do I will lower it, its plenty tall now and 35s would push it over what I would like. I like the looks of the DPG rigs with 4.5"s and 35s and its what I will do if i go 35s.
 
Currently running the currie correctlink steering.. was planning to flip the tie rods, like Erics XJ did.. that should be good..

anyother opinions on what lift route to take...

I am leaning towards the RE kit as is due to $.. i can savee around $800. thats enough for part of the tire and wheels....
 
just wondering, have you considered the 6" full traction kit? for about $1600 its a 4 link long arm setup thats pretty durable from what ive read, that is the kit i will be ordering real soon to go with a set of 35s, seems the perfect height for 35s.
 
May I suggest that you look at the Ford 8.8 axle when you plan to swap in a D44 and add disc brakes?

The 31spline 8.8 is slightly stronger, if you look around, you´ll find one with disc brakes (so you don´t have to buy it), you can get alloys for the axle (Super 88 from superior), slap in 4.88 and a locker and call it a day.

Don´t forget to weld the axle tubes to the differential and perhaps add an axle truss. That´s the route I´m going, the 8.8 is under the rig (4.56, DL, disc brakes), further plans are a truss, the Super88 kit, a 4.88 ratio and a crane diff cover. This axle should work well up to about 37" tires.
 
Already have the rear dana 44, almost bought the 8.8 but chose not to due to additional fab costs for moving mounts and using junk yard brakes [not going to].
Also already have the Teraflex disk break kit $416 shipped from dv4x4.
And the axle shafts have been ordered as well. [jeepinoutfitters.com]
Rear end is on target.

Have not heard much of full tractions kit... the kit looks nice, but again, i am choosing between the RE 6200 or the DPG hybrid with DPG springs.. not interested in the long arm currently due to cost at this point.
I can get the complete RE6200 with edelbroke shocks for much less then any long arm set up with out shocks... Long arms are great but im not interested currently. [if i was to go LA it would likely be TNT's set up].

more thoughts guys...
thanks for the input so far.
 
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Any one with the Viair set ups have any suggestions for the set up?

Not sure where to mount it since i will also be installing an internal cage and the cubby hole may be blocked.
 
OK so i spoke to the Builder for the gearing and locker installs.
He recommended that i stay with the ARB Compressor for the locker and go with a CO2 tank instead- faster- and leave the whole Air compressor /ARB thing alone-- work it as its designed to be.


I have concerns about driving around with a CO2 tank in my Jeep every day to work [mounted of course] and when i tool around with the kids back there... not to sure about that... makes me want the OBA more.. but theennn theres that tank too.... *sigh*

Thoughts folks?
 
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aroncull said:
OK so i spoke to the Builder for the gearing and locker installs.
He recommended that i stay with the ARB Compressor for the locker and go with a CO2 tank instead- faster- and leave the whole Air compressor /ARB thing alone-- work it as its designed to be.


I have concerns about driving around with a CO2 tank in my Jeep every day to work [mounted of course] and when i tool around with the kids back there... not to sure about that... makes me want the OBA more.. but theennn theres that tank too.... *sigh*

Thoughts folks?
Click to expand...

another route if your ok w/ the loss of a/c would be converting that for oba
that what ive done but some times i do wish i still had a/c.....

as for the tank and oba i never carry the tank unless im going on a run but if i needed to i could use the a/c compressor alone its just slower

you dont need to carry the tank daily unless your wheeling every day or airing up your tires every day

my .02 cents
 
nickangus said:
another route if your ok w/ the loss of a/c would be converting that for oba
that what ive done but some times i do wish i still had a/c.....

as for the tank and oba i never carry the tank unless im going on a run but if i needed to i could use the a/c compressor alone its just slower

you dont need to carry the tank daily unless your wheeling every day or airing up your tires every day

my .02 cents
Click to expand...


OMG DUH!! LOL :doh:

thanks
 
Forgot one thing, i currently have the ACOS's and was a little confusinated about spring rates for the smaller springs or running the full length springs instead up [front].

the recomendations ive recieved where to remove them [ACOS's] and then run the spring that come with the kits [whichever kit i get] due to compression rates and ride quality...

any thoughts on that?

thanks
 
Remove them otherwise your front end will sit way too high.

ACOS will have no effect on compression rates, and the only effect they will have on ride quality is control arm angle.
 
cal said:
Remove them otherwise your front end will sit way too high.

ACOS will have no effect on compression rates, and the only effect they will have on ride quality is control arm angle.
Click to expand...

If i was to keep them i would run a shorter coil so that the fron was still a little lower then the back.. [hopefully]

anyways that was my plan.
 
aroncull said:
If i was to keep them i would run a shorter coil so that the fron was still a little lower then the back.. [hopefully]

anyways that was my plan.
Click to expand...


The RE6200 comes with 4.5" ZJ coils (net 5.5" on an XJ). They are a good spring rate and do well on and off road. I'd pull the acos instead. They are pretty but you don't want to lose function to gain form in this case.

-C
 
gregmondro said:
Here's my daily driver
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=271502

5.5" of lift (RE leafs+shackle from the 5.5" kit), Rusty Coils up front (I forget the spring rate, but it's a little higher then normal), no sways, 4.56s, sye, open d30, detroit softlocker in the rear d44. etc

I have no problem daily driving the thing. Gas mileage is tolerable, power is there, etc.
Click to expand...


Nice Ride!!

looks good to me.. sometimes the RE6200 looks huge and too tall on some and then normal and nice hieght on others....

cal: function would be proper spring rate with a taller coil in the front... less front end looseness? Thats what i imagine.

also guys... RE montube suck? i thought edelbrocks where ok.

OME are really that much better?

what about Bilstien 5100's?


thanks!!!!:eyes:
 
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