rabitz
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Portland, OR.
good job, man! awesome progress
Red Rocket
- Thread starter bmikes
- Start date
bmikes
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- portland or
Thanks for the comments guys. I really do enjoy all of the work, even though sometimes I get frustrated.
Dustin, no I didint weld the upper lip. I was going to, but with it touching the bottom of the frame rail there was like a 1/4"~.300" gap, do I decided screw it. I did weld about 75% of lower lip to the inside of the frame rail though, so I think that will help a lot. Either way, there's no way those are coming off
One thing I noticed last night while taking the rear axle out, is that the parking brake cables are different length on the '99 axle. The drivers side is short, and the passenger side extends all the way over to meet the box that is mounted on the drivers side inner frame rail. On the '93 axle both parking brake cables are the same length because the joining box is in the middle in the transmission tunnel. I didn't get a chance to look, but does anybody know if you can take the cables from the '99 axle and instal them into the '93? Both axles are the c8.25 FYI.
Dustin, no I didint weld the upper lip. I was going to, but with it touching the bottom of the frame rail there was like a 1/4"~.300" gap, do I decided screw it. I did weld about 75% of lower lip to the inside of the frame rail though, so I think that will help a lot. Either way, there's no way those are coming off
One thing I noticed last night while taking the rear axle out, is that the parking brake cables are different length on the '99 axle. The drivers side is short, and the passenger side extends all the way over to meet the box that is mounted on the drivers side inner frame rail. On the '93 axle both parking brake cables are the same length because the joining box is in the middle in the transmission tunnel. I didn't get a chance to look, but does anybody know if you can take the cables from the '99 axle and instal them into the '93? Both axles are the c8.25 FYI.
Bronzewyrm
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Independence,or
I had the SAME problem with mine when I did the swap. you can pull the cables and swap them . it will take some 4 letter words, and some time. but there not too bad at all.
Bronze.
Bronze.
bmikes
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- portland or
Cool. I might just get new shoes in there while I'm at it. Thanks for the help guys!
Bronzewyrm
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Independence,or
IF your dong all that, it might be worth a trip to the JY for A ZJ Disk upgrade. no real point in buying new shoes when you can go to disks for the same price
Bronze.
bmikes
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- portland or
Hmmmm I'll look into that. Got any links handy? 
bmikes
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- portland or
Got a little work done today. Worked on getting the front axle ready to go so that on Thursday when the uca mount gets here I can weld that on and toss it in the jeep. Here's a quick run down of everything.
In order to slide the truss over the drivers side uca mount you have to get that bushing out. I chose to drill out the rubber bushing which allows the metal sleeve that the bolt goes through to come right out. Next, I used a sawzall to make two cuts through the metal bushing, while being careful not to cut into the casting. Then I just tapped that metal bushing right out.
Step two was deleting the passenger upper control arm mount. Pretty easy and self explanatory, just use a cut off wheel, plasma, cut off torch, or sawzall to cut the mount away from the axle tube. Then grind smooth.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/
14/04/09/dysahequ.jpg
The next thing I did was test for the truss, just to see where all I needed to remove paint.. And well.. I took off a little more than I needed to. But I figure it was flaking anyway, so self etching primer and paint will be better than the current flakes.
Test fitting
Resorted to using some emery cloth to getting the hard to reach places
I didn't get a picture of it, but I welded the stand up section to the truss bridge before I welded the bridge to the axle. To do it I set them both on the axle, adjusted it all to line up, and tacked the vertical plate with holes to the bridge, then took it off and made a few good tacks alternating sides to ensure it wouldn't warp and become misaligned. Then I welded the entire length of it, and filled the holes on top. After that, I finished welding the truss to the axle.
I prepped it all for paint, laid down two layers of self etching primer, and then coated it with rustoleum bloss black. I'll get pictures of it tomorrow after it's done drying.
So now the jeep looks like this
Things I still have left to do:
-install shackles/leaf springs
-swap transfer cases after I put the 41 tooth speedo gear into the '93's tcase that has the sye on it.
-swap e brake cables from the 99 to the 93 c8.25. (And look into zj disk brakes for it.)
-weld the uca mount to the truss when it arrives.
- reinforce the uca mount on the frame
-install front suspension (track bar, axle, coils, steering, control arms..)
- put on my brake lines from the '93 (bleed brakes)
- trim fenders for 33's
- make rear bump stops, maybe fronts too..?
And then it should be drivable then it's on to bumpers and sliders.
In order to slide the truss over the drivers side uca mount you have to get that bushing out. I chose to drill out the rubber bushing which allows the metal sleeve that the bolt goes through to come right out. Next, I used a sawzall to make two cuts through the metal bushing, while being careful not to cut into the casting. Then I just tapped that metal bushing right out.
Step two was deleting the passenger upper control arm mount. Pretty easy and self explanatory, just use a cut off wheel, plasma, cut off torch, or sawzall to cut the mount away from the axle tube. Then grind smooth.
14/04/09/dysahequ.jpg
The next thing I did was test for the truss, just to see where all I needed to remove paint.. And well.. I took off a little more than I needed to. But I figure it was flaking anyway, so self etching primer and paint will be better than the current flakes.
Test fitting
Resorted to using some emery cloth to getting the hard to reach places
I didn't get a picture of it, but I welded the stand up section to the truss bridge before I welded the bridge to the axle. To do it I set them both on the axle, adjusted it all to line up, and tacked the vertical plate with holes to the bridge, then took it off and made a few good tacks alternating sides to ensure it wouldn't warp and become misaligned. Then I welded the entire length of it, and filled the holes on top. After that, I finished welding the truss to the axle.
I prepped it all for paint, laid down two layers of self etching primer, and then coated it with rustoleum bloss black. I'll get pictures of it tomorrow after it's done drying.
So now the jeep looks like this
Things I still have left to do:
-install shackles/leaf springs
-swap transfer cases after I put the 41 tooth speedo gear into the '93's tcase that has the sye on it.
-swap e brake cables from the 99 to the 93 c8.25. (And look into zj disk brakes for it.)
-weld the uca mount to the truss when it arrives.
- reinforce the uca mount on the frame
-install front suspension (track bar, axle, coils, steering, control arms..)
- put on my brake lines from the '93 (bleed brakes)
- trim fenders for 33's
- make rear bump stops, maybe fronts too..?
And then it should be drivable
then it's on to bumpers and sliders.
AwesomeXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Vancouver WA.
Bummper & slider party ?
bmikes
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- portland or
Hmmm maybe!
AwesomeXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Vancouver WA.
I got all the steel required for my rocker replacements and front/rear bumpers. Just no welder or fab skills. Hint hint wink wink
bmikes
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- portland or
Alright guys... Need help. I know that my cross member is in the right place because it is holding up my transmission, and all the stock mounting holes line up. That's how the Clayton directions said to instal it. But... Now my axle is like 4"-5" too far back.. You can see by where the track bar mount is, and where the spring perches are compared to the bump stop. Also, the joints on the upper control arms have about 3.25" of thread on them, and I have roughly 1.75" of thread exposed on both ends, and the bottoms are almost all the way collapsed, and my pinion angle is horrible.. Idk what's going on..
Plus, the bolt hole for my upper control arm on the axle still doesn't line up. I'd have to extend the length by like another 3/8-1/2 an inch to get them to line up.
But look at where the axle is sitting, it's under the big part of the oil pan..
Plus, the bolt hole for my upper control arm on the axle still doesn't line up. I'd have to extend the length by like another 3/8-1/2 an inch to get them to line up.
But look at where the axle is sitting, it's under the big part of the oil pan..
bmikes
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- portland or
I will in the mornkng
- Location
- NE Texas
As the Axle droops that low, It pulls back, I do agree 5" is too much, If your joints are all out as far as your comfortable with, I would Call claytons tomorrow.. Maybe you got the wrong Cross member? Or the arms are too short..? There are a few variables...
- Location
- NE Texas
x2 Somethings being overlooked
bmikes
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- portland or
I know the pictures suck, but that's the best lighting I could get for now
Bronzewyrm
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Independence,or
im just going to throw out a guess if I follow all this correctly. id bet you have a cross member setup for the ax15. this looks familiar...
Bronzewyrm
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Independence,or
clayton's website lists the
AX15 PN: 4801020
AW4 PN: 4801010
check your invoice/box. I think you either got ax15 arms, or ax15 cross member setup. just depends on how they do things.
Bronze.
AX15 PN: 4801020
AW4 PN: 4801010
check your invoice/box. I think you either got ax15 arms, or ax15 cross member setup. just depends on how they do things.
Bronze.
