Rear shocks through floor with rear seat?

[slcpunk74]

I was looking at making a shock hoop under the back of my xj but I am thinking with the travel I could gain from running the rear shocks through the floor I might as well.
I was looking at this style setup but with the shocks slanted slightly back. Is slanting shocks back going to put a bind on them when they travel?

Any pics with this style setup while still keeping the rear seat(4door)?



pic is of Gearwhine on this sight. I hope its ok I used it... Let me know if its not cool I will take it off.

 

[slcpunk74]

I "MIGHT" not need to slant the shocks but I need the hoops to clear the rear seat

And I need to be able to sleep and move around in the back so a crossbar is not an option

 

[beakie]

I don't have a pic, but I have the same idea to use some longer shocks so as to skip anymore broken bolts and angled shocks in the future.
I had thought of doing something like that, but here's my thoughts.
Plate the wheel well with some 1/8", maybe 4"x12" heated up and some ballpean work to match the roundness of the well. Lay the 12" front to back.
Than bend up a hoop to attach to the plate so the hoop sits out over where the shocks would come up. The hoop would be angled in about 45*.
Only thing is you'd want something to re-enforce the hoop as it would want to push out towards the body... maybe some gussets top/bottom would help out.
End result is the hoop to allow the shocks to come through, and it keeps as much of the floor space as I could think of.

 

[Jess]

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86666&highlight=Shocks+through+floor

 

[slcpunk74]

I don't have a pic, but I have the same idea to use some longer shocks so as to skip anymore broken bolts and angled shocks in the future.
I had thought of doing something like that, but here's my thoughts.
Plate the wheel well with some 1/8", maybe 4"x12" heated up and some ballpean work to match the roundness of the well. Lay the 12" front to back.
Than bend up a hoop to attach to the plate so the hoop sits out over where the shocks would come up. The hoop would be angled in about 45*.
Only thing is you'd want something to re-enforce the hoop as it would want to push out towards the body... maybe some gussets top/bottom would help out.
End result is the hoop to allow the shocks to come through, and it keeps as much of the floor space as I could think of.

Interesting and confusing... I need pics to fully take it in though.

 

[slcpunk74]

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86666&highlight=Shocks+through+floor

I know of this link but I want two individual hoops as shown before without a crossbrace. That way I can keep my rear seat and still lay down in the back and what not:smootch:

So again NOT like this one with the brace

 

[slcpunk74]

I don't have a pic, but I have the same idea to use some longer shocks so as to skip anymore broken bolts and angled shocks in the future.
I had thought of doing something like that, but here's my thoughts.
Plate the wheel well with some 1/8", maybe 4"x12" heated up and some ballpean work to match the roundness of the well. Lay the 12" front to back.
Than bend up a hoop to attach to the plate so the hoop sits out over where the shocks would come up. The hoop would be angled in about 45*.
Only thing is you'd want something to re-enforce the hoop as it would want to push out towards the body... maybe some gussets top/bottom would help out.
End result is the hoop to allow the shocks to come through, and it keeps as much of the floor space as I could think of.

ok I read it again and got it. I had thought of something similar but I was planning on plating the rear uni-rails at the same time as this so I would only need to plate the rails not the wheel(maybe?). I guess I will find out.

Here is how I would like to tie into the uni-structure

Pic from Gearwhine aswell

 

[XJ_ranger]

do you have a hole saw?
do you have a tube bender?
do you have a grinder?
do you have a welder?

if so, then:

put your back seat up
cut a hole in the floor after careful measurement
stick the shock thru the hole
make two hoops that connect to the top of the shock, and dont interfere with the seat with the tube bender
grind all the undercoating and zinc off where you're going to weld
weld
paint (making sure not to overspray onto the seat)
install shocks
go wheeling


anything can be made with the right tools, just go out to your jeep, look at your tools and make a decision if you can get where you want to be with the tools you have...

also remember that you don't have to bend a 180* bend, a lesser bend that matches the angle of the seat might work better...

here is what I did, even though it doesn't apply to your question -

my hoops are tied to a piece of 12ga that is welded to the top of the 'frame' rail, and down the side of the frame where I cut out for the shock. they are angled out, so the tabs can be in line with the shock, and I can still get the bolt out. the support goes to my cage, and that is to handle any side loading.

they've been my bump stops, and been strong enough so far... though my Fox 2.0's aren't valved stiff enough, so maybe that will change?

 

[slcpunk74]

do you have a hole saw?
do you have a tube bender?
do you have a grinder?
do you have a welder?

if so, then:

put your back seat up
cut a hole in the floor after careful measurement
stick the shock thru the hole
make two hoops that connect to the top of the shock, and dont interfere with the seat with the tube bender
grind all the undercoating and zinc off where you're going to weld
weld
paint (making sure not to overspray onto the seat)
install shocks
go wheeling


anything can be made with the right tools, just go out to your jeep, look at your tools and make a decision if you can get where you want to be with the tools you have...

also remember that you don't have to bend a 180* bend, a lesser bend that matches the angle of the seat might work better...

here is what I did, even though it doesn't apply to your question -

my hoops are tied to a piece of 12ga that is welded to the top of the 'frame' rail, and down the side of the frame where I cut out for the shock. they are angled out, so the tabs can be in line with the shock, and I can still get the bolt out. the support goes to my cage, and that is to handle any side loading.

they've been my bump stops, and been strong enough so far... though my Fox 2.0's aren't valved stiff enough, so maybe that will change?

perfect thanks and yes to most all the questions. I am using a buddies bender(damn I need to finish mine!). This is almost exactly what I want to do. I just really need to decide how long the shocks should be so I can get them on order.

 

[XJ4AllSeasons]

Why arent you using coilovers? I have some and want to use them, but want to keep my back seat. I heard that you have to mount the shocks at 90 degrees, is that true?