rear main seal ?

[poomero]

I was wondering if anyone has a write up on how to swap a rear main seal. I have to change mine right now and wanted to read how to first. hahaha

 

[1990heepxj]

drain oil, drop oil pan, remove the rear bearing cap take bottom piece out of cap, use a small screw driver or something to push the top half thru a bit and grab ti with pliers and pull it all the way out. then take new top half add a little grease or oil to it slide it back thru being careful not to rip it any. take bottom half coat in grease or oil place in cap. wipe off the joining part of the cap and apply rvt to the joining ends of the seal. let rvt get a skin then place it in and torque bolts to 80 ft/lb then do the normal stuff to replace oil sump

 

[hightime81]

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101118

Full write-up courtesy of 5-90.

Cheers.

 

[1990heepxj]

hmm i didnt take my starter off and it only took me like an hour and a half maybe 2 due to letting rvt set up. mine doesnt leak although my oil sending unit is leaking hehe. ill be fixing that tomorow.

 

[1990heepxj]

things been leakin like hell since i got it a month and something ago and i was kinda trouble shootin trying to fix it so i did my rms sump gasket and valve cover gasket all last week end

 

[hightime81]

how about your OFA adapter gasket? mine was leaking badly enough to make me think it was my RMS. i traced the oil back up the side of the engine to the OFA adapter and since i replaced the seal, no more leaks!

 

[rocknxj]

I know all Jeeps are different, but my RMS install took 10 hours. Sure, some of that time was spent driving to NAPA to buy a second rear main seal because I dorked up the first one during the install, as well as two hours cleaning the lower bearing cap, but it still took that long from start to finish.

I used four or five different sets of instructions I found on the forum because I was not completely happy with any of them, 5-90's included. I took my time and felt I did a great job, but my seal leaked for about a week after the job. Seems to be holding up now after swaping the OFA o-rings a few days later.

X2 on what others say about the OFA o-rings. I'm thinking that I had so much oil under my engine from the leaking OFA, that my RMS was good and not in fact leaking. I have no way of knowing that now but suggest starting with the $8 OFA o-ring swap first and see where that takes you. That job takes less than 30 minutes.

When and if you do the RMS, make sure you get the right RTV and use the right amount.

Edit: I re-read 5-90's instructions and have no problem with it. I just like pictures and I found several instructions that supplemented his write-up.

One thing I did find helpful that 5-90 did not mention is the use of rubber bands to hold the oil pan gasket in place during install. He suggests using studs, but four rubber bands can be used to hold the gasket in place very effectively. Loop the band through the hole and back through itself, and pull tight. You'll see. Once a few bolts are installed, you can easily remove the rubber bands. See, pictures would be helpful.

 

[teryon]

my old one was brittle, so use caution not to leave some still in there

 

[poomero]

i cant get the oil pan to come out. i want to swap it with a new on but i cant figure out how to get it out. i got it to drop but it is getting stuck on the axle housing and wont come out all the way. does anyone have an idea of why it is getting stuck and come out. i got the rear seal all set but i cant get the oil pan out.

 

[joe_peters]

Could be hanging up on the oil pump pickup tube. Two bolts to remove the pump. BTW, how many miles on the engine? Might want to consider replacing the pump. Be sure to at least clean the pickup tube's screen.

While you are in there, don't forget to re-torque the rod and main caps.

 

[1990heepxj]

ya im on about a 5 in lift i had to jack mine up a couple inches still to get the pan out

 

[poomero]

i tried to jack it up and still no go i will take out the oil pump like joe said. thanks for all the help guys i will let you know how it goes when im done. oh im also changing the starter and the fan clutch today.

Oh and what is the OFA o rings. i hate all the abbreviations. i dont know any of them yet. haha

 

[JNickel101]

Oil Filter Adapter - inside that little contraption, there are 3(?) little o-rings that get dry-rotted and will leak like a SOB.

 

[poomero]

oh. ok i will take a look at that as well. thanks a lot.

 

[poomero]

ok so here is the update. i got the rear seal in and its holding. i got the new oil pan in(i had to lift the motor to get it to clear) and i got the new starter in. Next week is the TPS and the new fan clutch.

This thing is going to be reliable one day soon.

 

[1990heepxj]

ya i went to napa today to get the 3 o-rings for the OFA, but eighther the guy helpin me was dumb and couldnt find them or they dont carry that kit. anyway ima find my nearest dealer and do mine soon

 

[joe_peters]

I believe the single large o-ring is NAPA FPG 70301.

I'm not certain, but NAPA BK 6011363 may be the kit, but the photo shows extra crap and I don't know why.

EDIT: Morris 4x4 has the 3 o-ring kit check out part number 6a here: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-engine-parts/engine4.0L-242-a.htm

 

[poomero]

Thanks joe. i am going to order that and swap it out next week. i dont think mine is leaking but i have 180,000 miles on it and i dont think it would hurt to put a new one on. .