Rear HP Dana 60 project update

Jeff 98XJ WI

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Butternut, WI
Hey all, I just thought I would post up a link to a bunch of pictures of my rear HP 60 project. I made a significant step forward last night by pressing out the short side shaft at the local high school auto shop. I used their 50Ton press. It took quite a bit of work just to get the housing in the press, but once that was accomplished, actually pressing out the tube was easy! It moved with much less hassle than I thought it would take. The problem with getting the housing in the press was that the housing was too long. I had to remove the springs that pull the press shaft up, the plate that the springs attach to, and a snap ring that the plate fits against. Then, the press shaft would fit inside the long side tube. I had to remove the presses feet in order to move the table to it's lowest set of pin holes and then I had to tip the whole press partly over to slip the housing in place and get the press shaft into the long side tube. I also placed a piece of pipe inside the long tube which pressed on a couple adapters that fit against the short tube seal area. Prior to this pressing operation, I had to disassemble the HP Dana 60 front end, cut it's ends off, remove all bracketry, and cut the plug welds out on the short side as well as clean up the resulting holes. Enjoy the pics. Jeff

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8IbtGzVo3bMYQ
 
David Taylor said:
Is a front 60 set up for oiling if you run it in the rear ? Are you going to use the left over front 60
parts ?

your not changing how the axle oils by using it in the rear....
 
Why go through the work of converting a front 60 to rear? Rears are a dime a dozen (ok, about $150 each) around here but fronts are like gold.......
 
David Taylor said:
Is a front 60 set up for oiling if you run it in the rear ? Are you going to use the left over front 60
parts ?

All parts will be used since the inner c's and outer parts will be used on a front HP 44 I'm also building. The oiling of the front HP 60 used in a rear application is an unknown for me. The aftermarket housings apparently have special casting details to allow for more oiling, but some others have used stock Front HP housings in the rear successfully. I guess we'll see how it goes someday. Jeff
 
JnJ said:
Why go through the work of converting a front 60 to rear? Rears are a dime a dozen (ok, about $150 each) around here but fronts are like gold.......

Because I haven't seen any High Pinion rear 60's especially for
$150 each!! :) Remember, High Pinion baby! Also, I came up with this housing for $25. It is missing some components, but that's ok. I also have a front HP44 for $20 that is getting the 60 outers, 35 spline shafts, and a 35 spline ARB. But, that's when the money comes in and I guess that'll be awhile. :) Jeff
 
Roger, must have missed the whole HP part, though I still think a LP 60 rear for $150 would be hard to bust and not near the work. Looking forward to the HP44/60 project, that should be interesting.
 
There's a few guys around here in MN that have built HP 60 rears. I've never heard them complain about oiling and I don't believe they did anything special. If you look at the two side by side there's a huge gain in ground clearance at the pinion.

I'd like to do exactly what you are in the future. Get a cheap housing, use some of my rear axle to make a HP one and use the front 60 knuckles/outers on a HP 44.

Mike Knorr kept his when he sold his old rig and put it in his new buggy, must be working okay.
http://bc4x4.com/tech/2000/highpiniond60rear/highpiniond60rear.cfm
 
i would assume that with oiling, you would have problems if you flipped a LP housing in order to make it HP - but moving a front to the rear and re-tubing shouldn't really do anything.

...that is unless the ring gear rotation has something to do with it.......
 
trainwrexj said:
i would assume that with oiling, you would have problems if you flipped a LP housing in order to make it HP - but moving a front to the rear and re-tubing shouldn't really do anything.

...that is unless the ring gear rotation has something to do with it.......

The front diff is really only being worked in 4WD (assuming you have manual hubs), but a rear diff is almost always working (when moving). Some people speculate that a front 60 wasn't made for rear application because of this. I doubt he really has to worry, especially if this isn't a DD.
Billy
 
I'd be worried about ring gear deflection more than oiling. I've had a couple of buddies tear up the R&P in a rear hp60 when bouncing/sliding and suddenly loading and unloading the R&P causing the ring gear to deflect away from the pinion...thus busting teeth of the ring gear (you're running on the "coast" side of the ring gear when in the rear with an HP). May not be a problem taking into account tire/motor size etc. True hi9 has thrust blocks to prevent this from happening. But for what little money you got tied up in it..fugit hope it works out well. :thumbup:
 
TrailHunter said:
So what's the story with the second housing that's busted?

A friend and fellow club member had already built a rear FF Dana 60 and when I contacted him for help, he offered me a Dodge front Dana 60 housing that had a damaged pinion bearing area. Apparently, the pinion bearing race spun and damaged the metal around where the pinion bearing mounted. It cost me $75, but I doubt I could have found a chunk of tubing, got it machined to press into the housing, and machined to fit an inner axle seal for less. So, I bought the housing and cut the tube from it. Jeff
 
Thread and project are not dead! I purchased a 35 spline ARB off a guy on Pirate recently. I might have saved a couple penneys, but not many. It is new though and now sitting in my basement. :) Jeff

P5070271.jpg


P5070272.jpg
 
You sure don't get in a hurry do ya?
 
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