Rear HP 60 progress report

Jeff 98XJ WI

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Butternut, WI
Well, I thought I would post about a tiny bit more progress. If you
recall, I am building a rear High Pinion full float Dana 60 axle.
Recent progress has been to decide on a rotor, caliper, and caliper
mount plan and then start machine work on the housing end adapters.
I found Chevy 3/4 Ton rotors (8 lug) at O'Reillys auto parts in
Chippewa Falls WI) for $24 each which is pretty cheap, so I decided to
use them. I also found that they slip on the back side of my Ford
Dana 60 front wheel hubs like they were meant to. In addition, I
found that a stock wheel stud for the Chevy 3/4 Ton (Dorman 610-180
$1.89) will fit through the rotor and hub and give just enough stud
for a lug nut (Dorman 611-053 $1.29)using Hummer H2 rims. These
were the cheapest studs and lug nuts that I could find that would
work. They are 9/16-18 thread. With this combination sitting on the
bench, I slipped a stock front Dana 60 spindle in the hub with a new
inner wheel bearing and then slipped a front Dana 44 caliper with
new pads over the rotor and checked out the mounting points on the
caliper compared to the mounting face of the spindle. It turns out
that there is 3/4 of an inch difference between these two points.
There is a place on the web that I found that uses this combination
of parts and sells a caliper mount which consists of a flat piece of
3/8" steel mounting behind the spindle and then has mounting ears
for the caliper made of 3/8" steel that bolt to the back of the
first piece of steel. This distance matches what I found will work
for me. However, I really wanted to use Dana 60 spindles and/or
Dana 50 spindles. The only difference between the spindles is the
amount of register sticking out beyond the spindle mounting face.
THe 50 units mount straight to a steering knuckle, but the 60 units
pass through a caliper mount before bolting to the steering
knuckles. So, after much thought, I decided to make my housing end
adapters with a step in them 3/4" behind the spindle mounting face.
Then I can mount a flat 3/8" caliper mount to the step and have it
extend right out to the calipers. I can then mount either spindle
straight to the end adapters. I started machining one of the
housing end adapters at the high school shop the other day and
snapped a few pics of them as well as the other parts of this
project. I added them to the running photo album found here:
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8IbtGzVo3bMdm

Enjoy. Jeff
 
Jeff 98XJ WI said:
Chippewa Falls WI
Now famous for more than good beer :thumbup:
Nice work.
 
WOW! Isnt that going to be runing on the weak side of the gears?
 
Ghost said:
WOW! Isnt that going to be runing on the weak side of the gears?

Just like the Tera CRD, Rockcrusher, Currie RockJock, etc...
 
Kool, I did not realize that they were that way too...
 
Hey guys. Just thought I would share a few more pictues of a bit
more work on the rear HP 60 project. I finished one housing end
adapter (although I need to drill the spindle mounting pattern when
I figure out the proper rotation.) Here is the complete album
although the three pictures of the finished end adapter are at the
end of the album. http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?
sid=8IbtGzVo3bMeI

The order of assembly will be the Ford Dana 50 or 60 front Spindle
(without a spindle bearing) bolted directly to the housing end
adapter (with silicon to keep grit from getting into the back of the
spindle and/or the tube) which will be pressed on the housing tube
and then welded in place as well as perhaps adding a couple
gussets. The Ford Dana 50 or 60 hub will have a Chevy 3/4T rotor
mounted to it via wheel studs and that assembly will slip over the
spindle with wheel bearings packed in grease. The caliper mounting
plate will bolt to the outer flange of the housing end adapter and
the caliper will bolt to the caliper mounting plate. The pumpkin
will have standard axle seals in it to keep the lube in the center
section. Double splined 1.5" diameter 35 spline axle shafts will
slip into the carrier through the spindles and tubes and be
supported on the hub end with 35 spline drive flanges. Yes, there
is still a lot of work to do. Jeff
 
Tease!
 
Why did you use this expensive way for axle tubes and spindles? Why not get a 14B and get the axle tubes including spindles from it and mate it to the HP60 center? So you would not have to worry about lubricating the hubs/bearings. Just curious
 
Yeah, 14 bolt hubs and spindles would have worked, but I didn't have them. Also, having removeable rear spindles is kind of cool in case one gets damaged. And, having matching components at each wheel is kind of nice. I like the idea of a double splined rear axle shaft instead of a flanged one custom made to fit my width and bolt to the 14 bolt hubs. I don't think the cost of my parts is going to be much different than the 14 bolt pieces except the expensive 35 spline drive slugs. :( Who knows, maybe the 14 bolt idea would have been better? I don't think I could have used the 14 bolt tube though without some extra work. I am using a long side tube from a front LP Dodge 60 because it was offered to me for a reasonable cost and already had the correct dimensions to be pressed into my HP center section. Jeff
 
:) I never wrote you should use the complete axle assembly and the hubs :) and i never saw a spindle get damaged without major damage to the surrounding parts so this should not be a nobrainer. I was just wondering why you did it with removable spindles.
 
Here's another link to the full rear HP 60 picture album.

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8IbtGzVo3bMge

I haven't done a lot, but I have procured a 1.5" chrome rod that used to be part of a hydraulic cylinder, machined a piece of 2x0.25 DOM to slip into a stock front Ford Dana 60 spindle where the spindle bearing should go, did more machine work on the carrier bearing pucks, and purchased a set of 35 spline drive slugs. Jeff
 
Looks good Jeff, very un-redneck!
 
Here is a link to the latest pictures of my progress: http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8IbtGzVo3bMi0

Here is another link to the full album of pictures:
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8IbtGzVo3bMjS

I added captions to the pictures if you open them up.

I pressed the long Dodge tube into the Ford HP 60 center section in place of the short side Ford Tube. I did this with both parts dry. I did smear some RTV near the bottom of the hole so that as the tube bottomed out, it would catch a little RTV and supposedly seal that region well. I believe the factory does it this way. It worked like a dream and overall length came out to within a sixteenth of an inch of my calculations. I also pressed the housing ends on. I plan to add gussets along the tube and up the back of the housing ends, so don't get all worked up about the small amount of area pressed onto the tubes. :) I set the pinion at 12 degrees up (matching what Farmer Matt has) and then aligned the housing ends to postion the brake calipers such that the bleeders are vertical before pressing them on. I also added a little notch in the housing ends to accept an O-ring that slips over the stock front D60 (or D50) spindles to seal the spindle to the housing end and keep contaminents out of the back of the spindle. I am planning to run inner axle seals and just grease the wheel bearings, but I could leave them out and let the gear lube work out the ends of the tubes and into wheel bearings if I wanted. The O-ring should seal diff lube in ok.

Now, on to pressing the D60 ends onto the D44 axle tubes! Jeff
 
I forgot to add a couple pictures I had of the brake brackets. I started out with a plate of 3/8" steel. I layed out the 6 1/8" inside hole I needed, a concentric mark that went to the edges of the stee, and the notch for the caliper. Then I used a grinder and portable band saw to nip and grind till I had what looked like a circle with two prongs sticking up for the brake caliper. Then I had a friend with a large lathe chuck the brackets up and cut the necessary inside hole. After paying him, I returned to the saw and grinder to finish up the notch for the calipers. Kind of an unorthodox method, but the finished brackets look great! :) The final step was to lay out the caliper mounting holes, drill and tap them as well as drill three holes in the caliper mount and housing end flanges to bolt them together. Jeff

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8IbtGzVo3bMjw
 
Back
Top