RE 4.5 --> 5.5 Lift.. Can I just add a coil spacer in the front

I have the RE 4.5 Superflex with add a leaf in the back. I am about the put in a ford 8.8 in the rear and set the pinion angle and weld the perches.

Seeing how the only difference between 4.5 and 5.5 is the longer coil springs, leaf springs, control arms and control arm brackets/reinforcemet brackets, I plan to bump the lift up to 5.5/6 one day adding the different parts and was thinking, would now be the best time so that I can set the pinion angle for the 5.5.

I know that in the rear, for now I could run 1" lift blocks just to set the pinion angle while I get the spring packs made up and dialed in, and I could do that without adding anything to the front perhaps only giving me a slight difference in the back height being higher than the front, but would I be able to put in coil spacers in the front without installing drop brackets and changing the control arms without too much adverse affects? or would it be simply really bad angles, steering, ride.

I guess what I am saying is will it be bad to put in a 1-2" coil spacer in front without changing the control arms and adding drop brackets? I searched but seemed to find nothing specific to this
 
How does your Jeep ride right now without DBs? If it's not too bad at all, then just go ahead with a 1" spacer. You'll hardly notice a difference. 2", however, would be pushing it IMO.

Are you sure you want to lift the front and rear? Generally, the front sits lower because RE leafs usually result in "raked" looking rigs. Adding a spacer up front could level it and then I'd call it good. Your front will typically flex more anyway.
 
It rides better than it ever did stock. I want to raise it up 1" from now to sorta get a 5.5 lift out of it.. the 2" was just for for when I put a winch bumper and winch on but thats a long way off so perhaps the 1" is the way to go. I HOPE that I will notice a difference. I would like to have it look a little higher as well as be a litle higher. as for it being raked, the shop that installed it rearched my two month old springs to the same arc as the add a leaf and in the process they made the thing sit level, with no rake... which I was very happy about. I will def. be putting the 1" blocks in the rear to get me the pinion angle I am after. I hope that with the driveshaft adaptor my driveshaft will still be long enough. I have heard that most 8.8 swaps result in the abilty to use the driveshaft with no mods.
 
Nope what I mean was I plan to add lift blocks (or full pack) in about 6 months when I lift the heep further to 5.5. I figured I might as well do that now so that when I weld the new spring perches onto the 8.8 next weekend the pinion angle is set in its final resting place vs. welding the perches without he blocks then in 6 months adding shims or cutting off and rotating the perches. either way it doesnt matter, its the front that is in question about the spacer and control arm angles. I can easily run a block in the back making no difference except to pinion angle which is going to be set at install, its the geomety of the front I am concerned about
 
twisted_ed said:
Nope what I mean was I plan to add lift blocks (or full pack) in about 6 months when I lift the heep further to 5.5. I figured I might as well do that now so that when I weld the new spring perches onto the 8.8 next weekend the pinion angle is set in its final resting place vs. welding the perches without he blocks then in 6 months adding shims or cutting off and rotating the perches. either way it doesnt matter, its the front that is in question about the spacer and control arm angles. I can easily run a block in the back making no difference except to pinion angle which is going to be set at install, its the geomety of the front I am concerned about
Oh, okay, gotcha. As I've said before, the 1" shouldn't be too noticable (if at all), but 2" would be pushing it IMO.
 
ok cool. I would like to keep it somewhat level and of course gain some wheel well clearance which I like...
 
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