RE 3.5" Super Flex kit. What else is needed?

[FatSlobBob]

I'm looking for a semi-modest lift with good daily driveability. I like the looks and reviews of the RE 3.5" Super Flex kit with monotube shocks and full leafs. Specifically, this kit:

https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/rubic...-and-monotube-shocks-re6030m/_/R-BKTG-RE6030M

I'll add an RE adjustable track bar and RE steering stabalizer. Is there anything else that's needed such as longer front brake lines?

 

[FatSlobBob]

Oh, and I'm going to do an RE TC drop kit with future plans of an SYE.

 

[Anak]

Make sure you know what rear axle you have before you order this. U-bolts need to match the diameter of the axle tubes.

With that kit you retain the factory upper control arms. I would at least replace the bushings for those. The bushings on the axle side each pose potential challenges. The driver's side tends to be a good, tight fit in the cast differential housing, and clearance to work with is restricted. The passenger side is prone to being too loose to even hold properly and the sheet metal bracket it mounts in is prone to several failure modes. There are several different, aftermarket options to strengthen the passenger side axle bracket. All involve welding. It would be a good idea to pick an option and take care of that bracket sooner rather than later.

In a similar vein, plan to do something to strengthen the mounting of the steering box. The factory spacer is weak. Adding lift and larger tires only adds stress in that area. Look into a better spacer and some form of frame reinforcement in that area.

With regard to the track bar, you would be best served going with a double shear design for the track bar mount. I think the RE is simply intended to connect to the factory track bar bracket. I would suggest you look for a track bar/double shear bracket package. Core 4x4 makes a reasonably priced package. Compare theirs with whatever else comes up in a search.

Another minor detail that is probably needed on a vehicle of this age is new bumpstops. Unless they have been replaced the originals are probably shot, not necessarily from use so much as from simple degradation due to time. Not an expensive part, and certainly easy enough to replace while you have the springs out.

Pay close attention to your U-joints. There is a good chance the new lift will be the final straw if they are old. And don't neglect the centering ball on the double cardan joint for the front driveshaft. Those can make for a catastrophic failure, taking out the T-case too.

Those are the thoughts that come to mind.

 

[need-a-bow]

Here are my thoughts:

Depending on what kind of SYE you plan to buy, it might be a good idea to do it right from the get-go. I had a 3" lift on my 98 XJ with an AW4/231/8.25 setup, and my front driveshaft ended up fitting perfectly on for my rear. I did a hack-n-tap style SYE, so it only took maybe 2hrs to do on my driveway will BSing with my pops.

As said above, make sure you have correct length bump stops. On my jeep, I bought daystar extended front bump stops($30 or so) that press into the upper coil mounts. If need extra, you can just stack hockey pucks on the lower coil mount, some people use a bolt through, some just some type of silicone to hold em together. For the rear, daystar sells extended bump stops, as well as other manufacturers. I didn't run rear bump stops for years as my leafs were pretty stiff, but eventually it I started cutting groves in my tires

For a track bar, once again the double shear is definitely the way to go. I had a Rubicon Express HD double shear track bar, along with the bracket and brace to go with it. Our jeeps are unibodys, so extra bracing helps. Iron Rock off-road has a great double shear setup, as does Ironman4x4, both sponsors. I believe Stinkyfab has a good option as well.

As far as the lift kit itself, it doesn't look like a bad option. Remember, this week there should be some killer black Friday deals. If I were to start fresh again with a new daily driver/weekend warrior I'd go straight to an IRO Rock Link 3 link up front, buy Rubicon Express 3.5 Coils and leafs off Amazon(watch prices, sometimes super cheap on there), and then if the budget allows, buy some bilstiens 5100 shocks. I personally used to run away bar disconnects but after a while just found myself taking off the sway bar completely, so I'd just buy some extended sway bar links(I think TJ ones fit), and remove it before wheeling. This is a lot more fun if you have an impact driver with the proper sized socket.

I'm looking forward to see some pictures as you go ahead and build this new jeep, always cool seeing a new build

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

 

[FatSlobBob]

Awesome info, thank you!

 

[maxbraketorque]

...

With that kit you retain the factory upper control arms. I would at least replace the bushings for those. The bushings on the axle side each pose potential challenges. The driver's side tends to be a good, tight fit in the cast differential housing, and clearance to work with is restricted. The passenger side is prone to being too loose to even hold properly and the sheet metal bracket it mounts in is prone to several failure modes. There are several different, aftermarket options to strengthen the passenger side axle bracket. All involve welding. It would be a good idea to pick an option and take care of that bracket sooner rather than later.

...

Interesting tidbits about the upper control arm bushings on the axle. I had wondered when those need to be replaced.

 

[maxbraketorque]

If you are going to go with RE, I'm wondering whether it doesn't make more sense to just go with the RC 3" lift. Its nearly half the price for the same basic kit. I've heard enough people complain about RE that I have doubts about it being $500 better than the RC 3" lift kit. Or another way to look at it is that the RC deluxe 4.5" short arm kit is only $999 and includes a double shear track bar kit, a drop pitman arm, and upper control arms. I have the RC 4.5" long arm, and overall, I think its well designed. My only complaint is that the rear springs are too stiff for my needs. I had to play musical leaves to get the rate to my taste. But I hear that RE leaf springs also run firm.

 

[CRBMAN]

I have exactly what you're looking at on a 2000 XJ. Has a 1" TC drop With 31's. Was installed about two years ago. No issues so far.