First off - I'm not telling you you should get any of the things I suggested - just that I'd be happy with them.
...though I was in that biz for quite a while, a number of years ago, I'm certainly not the ultimate authority or anything. :lecture:
If you like the sound of something, you can decide it's worth your bucks.
Now onto your questions:
What is my best bet for a box?:anon:
Well, if you're handy with a saw, make your own using at least 3/4" MDF and good carpenters glue - if you keep all the cuts straight, it'll seal perfectly with the glue. After that, you need to know what kind of music you listen to - jazz, you'll want something that keeps tension on the sub and helps produce crisp, clear bass - of course, you give up boom here.
If you want boom, a ported box (designs vary) is the route to take - they give a big increase in boom (all things being equal), but at the expense of clarity and control - the bass won't be as "tight". If you're making your own, I hope you're good, cause these can get complicated...
It's up to you what you want, so again, listen to the same size (and preferably same power rated) sub in different types of boxes. The actual difference between the two ends of the spectrum may be close enough for you that you'll be happy with either. I'm personally a sealed box guy - I like my bass tight - then again, I like to listen to dance music, too - that's why we have a BASS control! LOL (Not LOUDNESS - ohhhh I hate that thing!!!:soapbox: )
Also should i get 2 of those Phenoix gold octane-r ? and bridge the one to power a pair of subs?
Well, if you go with an amp kit like the one above, you'll have the power covered, so it's your call. I'm a 4-channel guy and I like this set up:
Channels A & B run my fronts (at 4 ohms or 2 ohms depending on whether they are 2-ways or components)
Channels C & D are bridged to run my sub (I have one 12")
Rear fill is handled by my deck power - this allows me to "force" the sound-stage to the front of the truck by turning up the gain on the amp in relation to the head-unit. Basically, the amp is allowing more output in relation to the headunit. Or, I can simply fade the headunit to the front a bit. Since the rear speakers are the only thing using the deck power, they are effectively limited in their volume - and the soundstage stays up front.
What's nice about this setup is it allows me to run only one amp - less overall draw of current, less space needed by my sound gear and less chances of f-ing thing up during the install. Downside is the amps cost more - though with your budget you should still be able to find a decent one.
(This idea will work with w bridgable 2-channel amp as well.)
Keep in mind that even amps rated as "low powered" by a lot of car audio guys will surprise you. Ever look at what the highend car audio gear in Lexus, etc puts out? It's usually nowhere near the 1000 + watts most folks want from their systems.
I'm perfectly happy with 25 clean WATTS per channel RMS - I won't be the loudest at the DB Drag, but that's not what I'm after. That kind of power is plenty for your main speakers - you'll go just as deaf with them cranked as you would with 200 WATTS a speaker cranked.:music:
For the sub, though, a bit more is in order, as it's the power that controls the in & out of the speaker's cone. Not enough and it'll over-work itself frying the voice-coil. Too much and POP! Just enough will allow you to tune the bass to match the output of the rest of the system ensuring you the whole thing is a joy to listen too...and can still bump when you're pimpin'!:jester:
If i was to get different subs since you said the punch line is junk compared to the good ol' days should i get 2ohm or 4ohm subs?
To be clear, I was refering to their amps
(sorry, I should have been clearer on that point). The speakers are pretty much the same speakers as other manufacturers use. Basically there is one guy in Thailand who makes 75% of all the speakers on the market today - I exaggerate, but you get the idea.
As for 2 ohm or 4 ohm, check the amp - if it's 2 ohm stable and you can keep it cool, go for 2 x 4 ohms wired to net a 2 ohm load - bumps up the output nicely for you. If cooling is a concern, or the amp has 300+ WATTS RMS when bridged at 4ohms, grab 2 x 8 ohm subs and wire them up for a 4 ohm load - or grab 2 x 2ohm subs and wire them up for the same 4 ohm load - your choice on that one.
Just remember these two things:
Listen BEFORE you buy.
Boom responsibly.
Hope all this is helpful, bro.
)
Thanks alot man. For now im all out of questions but im sure as soon as i start buying and installing the stuff i'll have more 
