Putting bass in front, not rear.

Is their anything that will allow me to put bass to my front speakers, but not my rear. My front speakers are two 6" subs, my rears are two 6x9" deep pioneers. My front speakers can handle my stereos bass at +14, but my rears are clearest at -2 bass; otherwise the internals of my hatch rattle far too much. My stereo can play dvds, rear an sd card, connect to my phone via bluetooth, but I cant do this. :smsoap: I really wonder why companies leave good features out of their top end equipment, but include it in the lower end.
 
Ohh!! Sorry, didn't think that when you said fader. I want all speakers playing at full volume, I just don't want the backs pumping bass; that's what the sub is for.


Replace the 6x9's with 6.5's that'll fix that.
 
you could wire in some type of crossover to keep the bass off the rear speakers. but for the price of a crossover you could just get some speakers that would handle the bass and/or track down and fix the rattles.
 
not sure what year your driving, but the 97+ with the speaker bar along the roof gets very little bass from it.
from what little I understand, your not going to get bass out of such a small area like the ceiling speaker bar has, as compared to the larger more sealed area of the hatch or door mounted speakers.
so if your running the older rig with speakers in the hatch, grab a newer model ceiling speaker bar and put the speakers up there.
 
I was just about to say Bass blockers... that was the first thing that popped into my head, was to do a bit with the fader, use bass blockers, install a crossover on the rear speakers... replace your 6x9's with another set of 6" "subs" and some dynomat to help with the rattle.... install an amp on your front speakers, and do most of your bass adjustment with it, not the head unit...
 
The bass blockers are about the only thing i've found useful out of this thread, sorry. I don't want to get rid of any of my speakers. My 6x9's aren't made any more, I got them brand new in the box from my dads attic; manufactured in '91. They are the best sounding speakers i've ever heard (Sound better than my JL's), they just don't make them with this kind of quality anymore. The 6" JL's in the front doors are great, they pump out plenty of bass, sound great, and fit perfectly. My 10" Kicker sub is controlled separately by my amp, so it can stay out of the equation. My problem is that I want to put bass to the front speakers, but not the rear. With my stereo, I can fade the volume from front to rear, and left to right, but cant control bass at all other than to turn the bass booster/reducer up. That however effects all speakers, not individual. Is their any way I can fade bass to the front speakers, and away from the rears? Would a crossover take care of this? (I believe this was mentioned)
 
Yes a crossover would help you out. but as I said you could get yourself an amp seperate for just the front speakers which I would have done anyways had I had 6" JL subs to install and that way you would get more power, and more clean bass out of them than the head unit alone would provide you.. then you can keep the actual bass level turned down on the head unit so it won't bother your rear speakers... if you have this high end head unit or any newer unit anyways should have a set of RCA's for the front channel... and you can run a decent small amp off that for your front speakers... then you would have louder better cleaner sounding bass from the fronts, and wouldn't ahve to worry about doing bass blockers for your rears.... would allow you to get the most out of your JL's as well...
 
use crossovers, but bass in the front and highs in the rear will give you a horrible sound image... im sure there are dead audio guys rolling in thier graves right now.

highs are directional and degrade as they bounce. bass is unidirectional and gets clearer as the sound waves bounce. thats why subs sound louder pointing away from you than pointing towards you. if you absolutley must have it set up they way you do use low and high pass crossovers to achieve the effect you want. that function is not in your head unit because its useless. if they truly are 6" subs like you say you are severely overworking your head units internal amplifiers, they should be run off of a separate amp.
 
"Bass blockers" are indeed capacitors, or "first order high-pass crossovers", look for a chart that tells which cap will roll the bass off at what freq. 150 Hz would be about a 265 microfarad cap if the speaker is 4 ohms. Crossover freq would be dependent on what caps are available. If you buy them packaged as "bass blockers" they will say on them at what freq. they cutoff at.
 
My system sounds great, pumping plenty of volume throughout the vehicle from the back. The 6x9's are pointed right at the back of my head with nothing blocking them, my kicker is pounding toward the hatch, and my door subs provide more bass in the driver and passenger seats. The 6x9's pump out PLENTY of volume, so i don't need any more speakers. (Although I was thinking about moving the door subs to the rear doors, and 6.5" speakers put in the front doors) My music is crystal clear 2 blocks down the road, so I can't complain. Cowboys from hell by pantera and Tears dont fall by bullet for my valentine are two songs that sound amazing in my rig.
 
A good friend of mine who was really into stereo equipment was running a pair of Eclipse 15" titanium subs with a Rockford amp with the little remote gain control knob. He kept the bass turned way down on his head unit and just turned it up and down to the subs using the gain switch on the amp. With the bass at -6 on the head unit, you could stand outside and watch the roof of his truck undulating form the bass. Do like everyone has been saying and run the bass through an amp (get one for your fronts, subs shouldn't be receiving their power straight from the stereo) and keep the bass low on the head unit. Let the amps do all the bass work for your subs.
 
OK, the amp you are refering too is the one for your Kicker in the rear correct?? We are meaning getting another smaller amp to power both of your front door subs, that way you can keep the bass setting on your head unit low, so your 6x9's int he rear won't be distorted at all, and your front door subs will have a nice, clean bass sound to them, along iwth your rear sub...
 
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