I'm pretty sure this is identical to the work that would be done on the LHD, seeing as how nothing in this area was changed to my knowledge.
I just tore apart my double cardan on my front shaft. The center ball joint within the H bracket lost all lubrication at some point, and begin to eat into the bearing race. So that's why the drive shaft was out. At the same time I said heck, I'm going to go ahead and throw all three u-joints in it. As well as a new greasable seal set up on the slide yoke.
I get the old race out, new unit pressed in. U-joints are changed. I only mention all of this as a backstory. My real question is, and maybe I didn't look at it close enough to see where it was set prior to pulling the old one off, but after reassembling the shaft, I went to go throw it in and saw excessive play at the front pinion, where the straps mount.
If you moved the u-joint cups all the way out to the lip, there would be tremendous play in the u-joint, this is the front one, at the axle. Meaning the cross section would slide back and forth between cups. It is the right u-joint, have triple checked, and the rear two went in perfect, they're all three the same. At any rate, what did I ended up doing, was making sure there was zero play in the cups between the u-joint, centering it, torquing down the straps to the proper settings. There is no play in the u-joint cross section now, HOWEVER, there remains the gap between the end of each cup, and the cast portion of the differential yolk. stopping points for the cups of the u-joint. I don't know how else to explain it.
maybe this explains it better.. on either side of the straps, it appears as if the cups have about a 1/16 of an inch to expand on each side. Before they hit the stops. On the outer portion of the differential yolk.
If these are allowed to expand I would then have play in the cross section, cup to cup. I've placed the old u-joint up there, and it also has space on either side. In my mind this is going to lead to serious vibrations, and I do have vibrations. However I will be the first to admit the tires are old and need to be balanced or replaced, so I'm not convinced that the vibration is coming from that drive shaft after the repair. I've only had this thing for a short time, we're working out the kinks.. As a matter of fact all of the squeaking and yelling it was doing is gone after the swap.
Four-wheel drive works great, however if you get under it and look there is still about a 16th of an inch on either side of the cups. The torque recommendation seems weak to me to hold cups from expanding, and I would have lied if I said I didn't eyeball setting this u-joint. Nothing looks damaged, nothing looks stretched. What's the intention here? Is there a way to adjust it via factory recommendation? I just don't like nothing retaining those cups on that shaft. And then we're talking about some serious play in the cross section once they get moving.
Thx
I just tore apart my double cardan on my front shaft. The center ball joint within the H bracket lost all lubrication at some point, and begin to eat into the bearing race. So that's why the drive shaft was out. At the same time I said heck, I'm going to go ahead and throw all three u-joints in it. As well as a new greasable seal set up on the slide yoke.
I get the old race out, new unit pressed in. U-joints are changed. I only mention all of this as a backstory. My real question is, and maybe I didn't look at it close enough to see where it was set prior to pulling the old one off, but after reassembling the shaft, I went to go throw it in and saw excessive play at the front pinion, where the straps mount.
If you moved the u-joint cups all the way out to the lip, there would be tremendous play in the u-joint, this is the front one, at the axle. Meaning the cross section would slide back and forth between cups. It is the right u-joint, have triple checked, and the rear two went in perfect, they're all three the same. At any rate, what did I ended up doing, was making sure there was zero play in the cups between the u-joint, centering it, torquing down the straps to the proper settings. There is no play in the u-joint cross section now, HOWEVER, there remains the gap between the end of each cup, and the cast portion of the differential yolk. stopping points for the cups of the u-joint. I don't know how else to explain it.
maybe this explains it better.. on either side of the straps, it appears as if the cups have about a 1/16 of an inch to expand on each side. Before they hit the stops. On the outer portion of the differential yolk.
If these are allowed to expand I would then have play in the cross section, cup to cup. I've placed the old u-joint up there, and it also has space on either side. In my mind this is going to lead to serious vibrations, and I do have vibrations. However I will be the first to admit the tires are old and need to be balanced or replaced, so I'm not convinced that the vibration is coming from that drive shaft after the repair. I've only had this thing for a short time, we're working out the kinks.. As a matter of fact all of the squeaking and yelling it was doing is gone after the swap.
Four-wheel drive works great, however if you get under it and look there is still about a 16th of an inch on either side of the cups. The torque recommendation seems weak to me to hold cups from expanding, and I would have lied if I said I didn't eyeball setting this u-joint. Nothing looks damaged, nothing looks stretched. What's the intention here? Is there a way to adjust it via factory recommendation? I just don't like nothing retaining those cups on that shaft. And then we're talking about some serious play in the cross section once they get moving.
Thx
