Purchased HP44/ Ford 9" suggestions welcome

[90xj_zach]

Hey guys. I just bought a HP44 out of 77 F 150 (radius arm mounts will be cut off), and a Ford 9" out of a 1979 F 150. They will need gears, spool in the rear, locker in the front. I will be converting the back to disk (already researched quite a bit on here for ideas). The front brakes are all there, but very rusty so I will need new rotors and calipers.

They will be going under my 98 xj, and will have 36" Iroks at each end. As of now I plan on utilizing the factory style 4 control arm set up (adjustables). The jeep is never on the street and will be trailered to the wheeling locations.

There is my life story. Anybody have helpful hints for the swap? I'm not a fabricating genious, but welding, and cutting metal is of no concern by the way. If any of you guys have convenient steering advice, or worth while purchases to make the job easier, I would appreciate it! I'm also a little concerned about getting the the brake lines from the Cherokee connected to the axles when that time comes.

 

[Breezio69]

im not sure you can just cut the cast wedges off, thats why people usually steer away from that particular front axle. Ive seen one that got retubed and another that had some serious truss work built over and into the wedges. but thats all fairly advanced. if i recall on the build i was following he had to machine quite a bit on the retubed axle.

I did also see a build that used the factory ford radius arms in some custom frame mounts.

sorry none of this is first hand but i know that particular axle is is usually shunned because of all this extra work

 

[whitexj98]

The wedges were not cast untill 78, 77 will be welded.

 

[ROBZ95Xj]

check out ruffstuff for brackets aswell as balistic they both have all you need

 

[Breezio69]

The wedges were not cast untill 79, 77 will be welded.

inserted foot in mouth, i got the year they changed over to the one piece mixed up, which was 78 :thumbup:

 

[John D]

The '77 D44 should still be weld on wedges and getting the brake lines to match up is pretty straight forward. I used a T&T truss and although it made it really easy to set-up the front, I don't think I would do that again. I converted to Chevy flat top knuckles because I wanted high steer and I would definately do that again. Take the time to shave the 9" while its out and easy. If you are keeping it low pinion on the 9" get a pinion guard.

 

[Boss Cherokee]

The wedges were not cast untill 79, 77 will be welded.

Correct earlier were welded in fact you can buy the wedges to build one from guys like Bronco Graveyard. However I believe, don't quote me but the full width 44's 1977 up, that were Hi Pinion, were casted wedges. Only 77 (small) Bronco's that were narrower were wedged. I'll check again I have a HP44 sitting in my back 40. I would not cut the wedges off though. I would cut the arms split the flat section tube it radius the tubing weld the flat to the tube and Johnny Joint them. Adapt the pan hard bar to yours. Reinforce the trans cross member to hold the johnnies and your done. I can send a pick if your interested. I ran my first one with the stock radius arms and tubed and bowed my 2nd one & added the Joints.

 

[Boss Cherokee]

If your running 36's your fine however a pinion guard is highly recommended. I run 36's MTZ and have no problems with my 9 front and rear. I did plate them while I had them out!

 

[90xj_zach]

FWIW, yes this is the weld-on axle mounts 44. Not the cast.

 

[Devilfrog]

Correct earlier were welded in fact you can buy the wedges to build one from guys like Bronco Graveyard. However I believe, don't quote me but the full width 44's 1977 up, that were Hi Pinion, were casted wedges. Only 77 (small) Bronco's that were narrower were wedged. I'll check again I have a HP44 sitting in my back 40. I would not cut the wedges off though. I would cut the arms split the flat section tube it radius the tubing weld the flat to the tube and Johnny Joint them. Adapt the pan hard bar to yours. Reinforce the trans cross member to hold the johnnies and your done. I can send a pick if your interested. I ran my first one with the stock radius arms and tubed and bowed my 2nd one & added the Joints.

ONLY the 78-79 F-100, F-150 and Bronco used the cast radius arm wedge section and had 3/8" or even 1/4" tubes (or both) ... ALL other years of HP44 (65-77) used welded on bracketry and were of the 1/2" tube variety (although some of the 76/77 axles had 3/8" tubes).

 

[Breezio69]

So.... back on track here, looking forward to the build thread on these axles! :thumbup::thumbup:

 

[Boss Cherokee]

Wow, where was I hostile or question your "experience"? I pointed out that anything can break. If you're out in the middle if nowhere, you should be prepared to fix it. A properly built suspension of any design should hold up to abuse, but sometimes parts just fail. Your comparison to racing doesn't hold much weight, as they carry spares to fix things as well. As far as which type of suspension is better, look at offroad racing, solid axle vehicles, you'll see more 3 links than radius arms. Can radius arms work well? Sure. So can leaf springs. If you want to see what the best is, look at top level racing and competition. They have more time and money to test and tune than most of us average wheelers.

I was talking about the battery and I shouldn't go wheeling statement you stated, that is while not hostile, aggressive to the nature of the quote. As for your last post, I don't know if you noticed but yours supports my post. That is keeping it simple, not having time for tuning and repairs. As for the racing, yeah we're not racing, although you would think some were, it has a lot more to do in comparison to racing. As I had said the GENERAL theory of the radius arms design as pertain to I beam design is there. That was Ford's idea to get away from the leaf suspension for a smooth ride and better off road performance (travel). In the repairs perspective, yes they have spare parts, ON other vehicles that can get it to them, I don't have that luxury. They don't carry the extra weight of parts, I would have to. If I had it in camp , I would have to go get it! They may finish but who wants to give up 1st to 3rd for having to change a broken part.
I just wanted to say that TV commercial quote about the money wheeling thing cause I think it's funny, I like the commercial only I did not add the eye patch thing to make you tougher, no offense intended.

 

[Boss Cherokee]

So.... back on track here, looking forward to the build thread on these axles! :thumbup::thumbup:

Thanks!!!

So consider the radius arms as an option for simplicity there are a few guys running them like that and really like them. The is 3 link a lot easier and provides the room for pan hard bar as opposed to a 4 link. The radius & 3 link leaves even more room for hydraulic steering also. They all work great just pick the one you feel most comfortable with or a friend knows and can help you! Oh and you better get started. I have a feeling it's going to be a cold winter!

 

[90xj_zach]

Help build my axles online! haha

The Ford 9 I bought didn't have a center section (picked on up today though). The point is the rest of the Ford 9 was disassembled so I am trying to figure out all the proper names for everything, and the correct way to do certain tasks. I have some pictures posted to assist in what I am talking about:

Above, can you guys tell me what 1 and 2 are? Possibly retainer and bearing but I am not sure. Also I need to remove them to get the rest of the drum brake assembly removed so I can do a disk brake conversion. I'm not sure the best way to do that.

What is that bearing called? Looks like I need to remove it to install the Pinion gear. Probably in there with a snap ring.

Thanks guys.

 

[Devilfrog]

1 - axle bearing
2 - bearing retainer

and in the last pic is the pinion support bearing

 

[90xj_zach]

Thanks. Just wondering though, why does Jegs call this the bearing retainer? That doesn't look like what #2 is pointing towards. I'm definitely confused. Also what is the best way to get them removed so I can start working on the disk brake set up.

 

[Frank Z]

The bearing and the retainer are best removed using a fiber cut-off disc on a Dremel. Once you get most of the way through the retainer you'll hear a loud POP as the remainer cracks.

Careful not to cut too deep.

 

[John D]

Those retainers are for the outside of the bearing.

I use a cut-off wheel on a 4.5" grinder. Just turn it on an angle go slow. Same idea as Frank says though. When you hear the pop the collar will slide off.

 

[90xj_zach]

Thanks. It also seems that the new ones will have to be pressed on. What about the people that have to replace an axle shaft on the trail? This is a bit ridiculous for a trail fix.

 

[John D]

If you carried a spare you would just have the axle already set-up with the new bearing.