Project Telluride: tons, big rubber, and a clean slate.
- Thread starter in4aride
- Start date
ROKRWLR
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Arvada, CO
You should be golden.
I was worried, too, so I asked him before I bought them if it would be ok and he said you didn't need the tie in for strength. This is also the same orientation Weaver does on he 05+ arms, so I feel safe enough. So far, so good in my 5 miles of driving around the neighborhood.
Now, the clearing of the diff cover still may be an issue unless you are going over the arm, depending on your cover. The arms are short and they go to a pretty steep angle at lock. It's an amazingly tight packaging job!
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That's why I laid the drag link where it is in the pic. At the height just on top of the factory spot looks like it would clear. And I think the high steer would sit a little bit taller.
Plus considering just doing a threaded tube vs tube and insert to cut down on overall diameter.
ROKRWLR
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Arvada, CO
That's why I laid the drag link where it is in the pic. At the height just on top of the factory spot looks like it would clear. And I think the high steer would sit a little bit taller.
Plus considering just doing a threaded tube vs tube and insert to cut down on overall diameter.
I tried to find a good shot of the tie rods from the front, but my hydro mount truss blocks the view. You can kind of see the height here. With a misalignment spacer between the arm and Heim, center of tiered is 4" above the face of the knuckle arm. I think you would need the misalignment spacers due to the "twist" the arms due lock to lock.
You could always throw on a piece of PVC with bolts and spacers to verify your clearance before you order arms.
ROKRWLR
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Arvada, CO
That's exactly what mine are.
So knocked out the panhard mount and link today. Got it installed and off the ratchet straps.
Decided to test out the clearances on everything with it all moving. Everything wiggles around just fine. The upper link clears the exhaust and frame rail with a little to spare.
Also started to mock up, weld up, and install the boostwerks sock towers.
Started drilling out the spot welds and delegating the wheel well from the outer panel and inner floor. Instead of cutting the notch out for the tower, I am cutting one spot and sliding the wheel well back, extending it the width of the tower. Should allow the entire tire to stuff. Then I'll re weld the new holes to connect the outer panel again. Be like factory but bigger. I hope.
Decided to test out the clearances on everything with it all moving. Everything wiggles around just fine. The upper link clears the exhaust and frame rail with a little to spare.
Also started to mock up, weld up, and install the boostwerks sock towers.
Started drilling out the spot welds and delegating the wheel well from the outer panel and inner floor. Instead of cutting the notch out for the tower, I am cutting one spot and sliding the wheel well back, extending it the width of the tower. Should allow the entire tire to stuff. Then I'll re weld the new holes to connect the outer panel again. Be like factory but bigger. I hope.
John D
NAXJA Member # 788
- Location
- Rockford, Mi
I didn't realize they were making these. I just checked out their website and I'm digging them. What do you think so far?
Also started to mock up, weld up, and install the boostwerks sock towers.
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Well they are cut and fit very well together. For dummies like me, the colored picture instructions work extremely well. Lol. But really they resolve an issue for the rear, and prebuilt me for when I go links in the rear. I plan on tieing mine into the cage so when I eventually run an air/coil over in the rear I can just bolt up and go.
Plus they will help use the rear to its full potential and eliminate the cheap factory mounting.
Also Bryson over there is a great guy to work with.
Also. For anyone that uses the Barnes 3-link kit. The panhard bracket, unaltered, points slightly forward so it would put an uneccessary angle on the joint. So I ended up trimming the front edge back by about 1" and tapered it to the top corner already present. Ended up pointing the joint straight down the tube.
After having installed, I'm happy with the kit. I knew it wasn't going to be a straight weld and run install. The parts were close enough to only require basic adjustments to make work for me. I'd recommend it and use it again.
After having installed, I'm happy with the kit. I knew it wasn't going to be a straight weld and run install. The parts were close enough to only require basic adjustments to make work for me. I'd recommend it and use it again.
John D
NAXJA Member # 788
- Location
- Rockford, Mi
Well, I'm a dummy too and I think they would work for my setup. When you get a chance could you please measure the outside width dimension? Also, what covers the inspection hole to seal it up?
John D
NAXJA Member # 788
- Location
- Rockford, Mi
It's your thread, whatever you want. Here or PM is fine. Thanks!
time2getdirty
my cats breath smells
- Location
- Cheyenne, Wyoming
Why such a short trackbar?
Well for now it's what I have to run. I can opt for a bracket that extends a bit past the frame rail but that'll only gain me an inch or two. Really, there isn't much a choice to make it longer unless I ditch the coils.
If I mount outside of pass side coil I run into clearance issues with steering. Already tried.
If I mount outside of pass side coil I run into clearance issues with steering. Already tried.
POSJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Minot ND, Unfortunately
I like that you're way ahead of me on your build...you just sold me on a set of ORI's.
Glad I could help.
I'll have to see how bad it is this summer and if it's killin me I'll just have to ditch em and go the same route. We shall see
time2getdirty
my cats breath smells
- Location
- Cheyenne, Wyoming
Gotcha.
