Project Telluride: tons, big rubber, and a clean slate.

[ROKRWLR]

How did you move the steering box?

I was running a longer waggy pitman arm to match the knuckle throw on my HP44 high steer arms. With a 3" or so stretch, the pitman arm and track bar had a slight conflict at full stuff which is why I did the box move.

I had JKS steering box reinforcement brackets which helped give me solid foundation for the move. I re-drilled the holes about 1"-1.5" forward and cut a hole in the cross member for the face of the round part of the PSC steering box to fit through. The face was about flush with the front of the cross member in the new position. The 4 bolt PSC box may have been bigger, so a stock box might not even need the hole.

I can't remember if the joint in the steering shaft had enough slip, or if I cut it and welded an extension in?

All in all, it wasn't that big of a job.

 

[in4aride]

just measured. At 107 on its own weight. Pics of todays work a little later.

 

[John D]

Thanks for measuring, I need to check mine as soon as I get it on the ground again.
I took a similar approach to ROKRWLR moving the steering box forward to clear the longer arm and welding a piece in to lengthen the shaft.

 

[in4aride]

No problem.

Here's my approach with the 40's and this WB.

 

[ROKRWLR]

Nice!

How much up travel are you going for? And, how much fender are you going to try and save?

 

[in4aride]

I'm not sure yet on either. Need to get panhard made and in and see what kind of room I have to work with and go from there.

 

[ROKRWLR]

What's your final lift going to be? Did I miss that?

If it helps you figure it out, on my 44 I had 4.5" up travel and 7.5" down. I'm at about 6" of lift (4.5" RE coils and 1.25" from ACOS collapsed all the way) + whatever I got out of the axle housing and brackets. My H1 wheels with 1.75" spacers were 5.25" backspace so they stay nice and tight to the axle when steering.

With both sides at full stuff everything clears with room to spare. At flex, I rub the underside of my tube fender bar pretty good with the 38s (that's about where your pinstripe is). There's a bunch of paint missing on the underside. I also slightly rubbed the front bar around my headlight where the corner of the header was and caught some of the support when turning, but my axle's a little further forward so you might not get those front conflicts.

I originally did the tube work when I had 35s and had no rubs with them on H2 wheels with 5.5" backspace.

The SD 60, it's wider so I'm sure the tire will swing up even more on flex, but I also picked up a little more lift out of the housing. We'll see what happens..... In my case it's rubbing a smooth tube so tire cutting isn't a concern.


If you feel like taking a trip up north to Arvada, you are welcome to come by and see where I've had to trim and where I rub.

 

[in4aride]

I'll be about 6.5"

 

[in4aride]

HOLEEEEEE Kerappppp. well she is on her own weight, But first the fun for how we got there.

So youll see in the pic, i tried mounting the panhard and upper link brackets as they were on the axle, side by side. Unfotunately that didnt allow the upper link to line up or clear the exhaust. So i notched the panhard mount so it would sit flush against the upper link mount, and grafted it in.

Lined up perfectly. :thumbup:

Next i knocked out the upper link. Already had the frame side mount, and now the axle side, so it was as simple as measure twice and cut once. 7/8" heims on both ends. Again, no welder, but wanted to show what i am working with.

blew up the portaband, have to get it warrantied, so didnt get to cut the panhard link. Used two opposing straps to center the axle for time being, but here she is on weight. Need taller coils, these are 4.5" and slightly too short, but otherwise i was doing the happy dance.

Shes at about 107" wheelbase, ill have to work on belly and rocker height after correct front coils are on.

 

[trippled]

Nice! Looking badass, really like those wheels with the red.

 

[in4aride]

Thanks man. Seems to be the common mindset, the look better against the color/body than just in pics.

 

[in4aride]

Also, I tossed the Chassis Unlimited cover on the front, not going to be able to run straight tie rod. So my options are
1- $600 for machined knuckles with high steer then the steering.
2- run a bent tie rod like factory
Thinking i am going to do the latter of the two and save the coin for other things i need.

 

[in4aride]

So. Found a guy on pirate that machines the knuckles and does the high steer arms as well for a lot better price than others. If anyone is interested I can shoot you info. 175/per.

 

[ROKRWLR]

Is it 4 Wheel Supply? They are a Pirate vendor. They were really quick turning them around. He was also 175 per including the return shipping. I think he also machined the 3/4" holes for steering for $10 extra or so. MUCH better price than Weaver. Or, did you find a third option?

You going with the high steer option now?

One trick with the arms is you can swap sides to clear more wheel offset and (according to what weaver does) get a better Ackerman angle for 110 ish wheelbase instead of the long wheelbase a Superduty has. You just can't do the tie in bolt that way.

 

[in4aride]

Yeah him. Yeah he requires at most 3.5" bs to clear so going to get them done and play with them to seeing I can make my wheels work with out a spacer.

 

[John D]

Mine is a KP60 but FWIW, I bought steering arms from him. Good product, good service and good price.

 

[in4aride]

That's always good to know. Thanks for the feedback! :thumbup:

 

[in4aride]

Do either of you run on just the top arm and not tied into the factory hole?

 

[ROKRWLR]

Mine is a KP60 but FWIW, I bought steering arms from him. Good product, good service and good price.

I'm running them swapped sides with a H1 wheel (7" bs) and a 1.5" spacer. So, 5.5" bs total on a 16.5" rim.

 

[in4aride]

I've got 4.75 bs 17x8.5 wheels so flipping them should be good. Just wasn't sure the reliability of bolting steering to just the arms and not tieing into the factory hole.