Project Shoehorn - M90 into a 4.0L

I tried finding the bearing number for the Gates bearings, to no luck. I will try to find a customer service email and ask. Any idea who else might make idler bearings?
 
I was thinking about your throttle body. Why dont I just open it up to 65mm. Then you dont have to play with your wiring and such.

Because he can't. At 65mm, it would be an "Air Throttle Body". In other words, there is not, IMO, enough material in the original casting to remove which is why commercially available TBs greater than 62mm are machined out of a fresh billet.

IMO, this project will require a TB of at least 68mm. I am running a 68mm and the intake system vacuum test returns 0"Hg of residual vacuum in the compressor's manifold at WOT. This indicates that the TB is properly sized and that there are no restrictions in the air delivery to the TB. In this test, any result less than 3"Hg is considered a no issue pass and up to 5"Hg can be tolerated but not desired.

Now as to whether or not this TB is large enough to accommodate the air flow required at sea level can be debated. IMO, it is large enough but, opinions vary on this.
 
So I had a thought the other day, and found the picture yesterday of the intake manifold from a 4.7L V8 in a WJ.

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Is it just me, or does it look like in 20 minutes with a hacksaw I would have something that could weld directly onto the intake for the supercharger that would be a factory fit for the 4.7L throttle body?
 
Umm.. the WJ manifold is plastic.. don't know about welding it to aluminum.

Well don't I feel stupid. That's what I get when I've never actually laid hands on one. Oh well, worth the thought. Back to plan A - weld on a throttle body spacer or similar machined part for the WJ intake.
 
Spent tonight measuring and trying to sort out designs for the primary mounting plate and the new idler pulley. Certainly not a lot of room. Going to make the mounting bracket blank for where the idler pulley will go, then cut it when I figure out the placement. I'm relatively confident I can fit a 2.75" idler in there, I was experimenting with a 3" cardboard circle and I found a couple options but I didn't have the supercharger in there at the time.

Also lined up a machinist to help me with some fabrication. (Thanks papasmurf!) Working on some drawings for him to get an idea of what I'm looking for, then we can start making real parts. The discharge to intake manifold coupler is the first and easiest part. Headed to the local steel recycling yard tomorrow to find some raw stock. Still trying to track down a WJ throttle body as well.
 
Bit the bullet and put in a big parts order tonight.

- AEM F/IC-6
- Venom 30lb injectors
- Gates laser belt alignment tool
- Jegs 65mm idler pulley
- ODBII USB scan tool with software
- Remote battery terminals
- Autometer dual gauge pod
 
However, that gauge pod won't fit your 2000 very well. Did you get the FIC for the Neon?

Well, probably no worse than the single gauge pod I already have. 88-01 body style compatibility is a contradiction in terms.

I ordered the AEM 30-1913 ' F/IC-6. Mag or Hall Sensors. Circuit Driver Inj Load Chrysler'. As far as I can tell that is the correct unit. Amazon ended up having the best price for it.

Money is getting tight though, I need to be picky on where it goes. I about fell out of my chair when I saw the pulleyboys.com price for an M90 pulley removal tool. I'm trying to find a local shop I can pay $10 to remove my pulley and not pay $150 for something I'll use once or twice. Thankfully I found a local mechanic selling his Gates belt alignment tool, so I saved myself a good bit of money on that.
 
I am running both the single and a double Autometer Gauge Pods. They fit the 98 just fine and I use them to hold the mechanical manifold pressure gauge, the AEM AFR meter and my air pressure gauge for the ARB compressor.

Makes for a busy A-Pillar...

The only issue I have with the Autometer pods is that they use plastic "buttons" as the securing hardware. If they need to be removed, the buttons will, most likely, self destruct. Instead, I use 1/4" long sheet metal screws that are, if I remember correctly, 1/4" diameter. I painted the heads of the screws black prior to installing them.

Is the interior of the 2k different from the 98?

As a side note here... When I did my pod installation there was a large mass of wiring that needed to be ran for the AFR gauge as it is the UEGO controller for the wideband O2 sensor. What I chose to do was to open a hole in the A-Pillar trim so as to be able to route the wiring internally. I then exited the wiring at the base of the trim and secured it to the side of the dash running it down and out to the engine bay. Photo can be published if anyone is interested.
 
This is how the autometer single gauge pod fit on my 2000. Not good enough for me.
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There should be enough room to run plenty of wire on the front side of the A-pillar and still be covered completely by the trim. Between the two pillars I have wires for: power for the rear view mirror, power for my V1, telephone data cable for the V1, telephone data cable/power for the multigauge, cable for the Viper's antenna and then the power, boost, and thermocouple for the McNally gauge.
 
Yep, that's what I get with my single gauge pod. At the moment I can either live with it or try to re-shape the pod with a heat gun, since I've got 3 new gauges that have to go somewhere and I don't have Talyn's amazing level of perfection. :) Maybe one day I'll build a fiberglass gauge pod that actually matches the 97+ interior body style. I don't expect too much trouble with the cabling, but that is a serious bundle of wires to deal with.

Tonight I took a break from dozens of rosette welds and poked around with the F/IC that arrived today. Upgraded the firmware to 3.06 (beta) so that I can use the Acceleration Pump Emulation feature and started learning about the various maps. Still deciding where to mount the thing since it's obvious by the mud in my engine bay that there are few spots that can't get hit by water or mud.

The Venom injectors are pretty cool looking too, but those are going to sit on a shelf for a while.
 
I tried to use the latest firmware. It caused the PCM to go bonkers. Mare one bank lean, the other rich. If you want to upgrade the firmware I would recommend doing it after you have it working well. And from what I heard the Accel enrichment feature doesn't work.
 
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