Project Downward Spiral

insanity said:
SWEET nice to see it off the jack stands!
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It is!

vetteboy said:
Hmmph. Guess I'd better get to work if I hope to secure the 'Best Engineered' award again at NACfest. :)
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Haha! We'll have to see I guess huh? ;)
Master-Pull said:
Call me and we can talk about rope prices.;)

-Alex
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I've got a few other things I've got to pay off first (like my new trailer) but then you'll be getting a call. :)
lobsterdmb said:
So does this mean you are coming on saturday for a shake down run?


Looks awesome Bill! :thumbup:
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No. There will most likely be no wheeling on Saturday for me. Despite being able to move there is a lot of time left before it is wheelable.
Thanks John.
Begster said:
Wow Bill, that thing looks AWESOME.


I definitely want to be there for the break in run, I'll bring both my cameras to get lots of pics/vids.


[SIZE=-3]P.S. - I'm a little disappointed I didn't get a notification like the others[/SIZE]
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Thanks Mark.
Did you RSVP? Haha. Really I don't know when and where it will be. Its going to be a spur of the moment thing when I get it "done".

The "others" didn't get a notification from me. Angel beat me to posted up something up on that website I despise while I was cleaning up a bit. You know the one that has something to do with books and faces. :rolleyes:
 
You mean this one? :read:

Yeah, I deactivated my account there a while ago. Not sure if I'm gonna permanently delete it or reactivate it at this point, only 4 people have actually mentioned that they noticed :roflmao:

So what's left? Header panel install and bumper obviously, Front DS / doors / air filter / rocker skins? Doors are optional equipment and air filters are for suckers :dunno:
 
:eyes:

Yeah, I totally didn't mean to do that. I never make bad jokes.
 
RCman said:
No. There will most likely be no wheeling on Saturday for me. Despite being able to move there is a lot of time left before it is wheelable.
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you can at least bring it so we can all look at it :D

RCman said:
Thanks Mark.
Did you RSVP? Haha. Really I don't know when and where it will be. Its going to be a spur of the moment thing when I get it "done".
Click to expand...

mmmm.....shakedown run, ill be there too. im ready at a moments notice for this.
 
Bill,

Those are perfect. I just wanted a more direct frontal shot for saving purposes. :)

The Jeep looks great. I just hope I can wheel with ya someday!

Congratulations,

Scott
 
RCman said:
Thanks Mark.
Did you RSVP? Haha. Really I don't know when and where it will be. Its going to be a spur of the moment thing when I get it "done".

The "others" didn't get a notification from me. Angel beat me to posted up something up on that website I despise while I was cleaning up a bit. You know the one that has something to do with books and faces. :rolleyes:
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Haha, no worries Bill, I'm just glad you got it up and running.

RSVP??? I don't think I ever got the invitation...:bawl:

When it does get finished, and the spur of the moment hits, let me know, I'll drop what I'm doing (most likely not important anyway), and come. I did make a promise to you a while back that I would be there for your shake down run.
 
So I started messing around with the MC last night as my brake pedal feel was nill at best. With huge Ford twin piston calipers up front and single piston GM calipers out back the stock MC just isn't up to the task.

There are a LOT of threads on this on both NAXJA and the PBB. Lots and lots of posts with very conflicting information. I just ended up heading down to the auto parts store and comparing them on the counter. I came home with a MC from a '99 Dodge Ram Truck 2500 with the 5.9L gasser. This MC has a 1 1/4" bore over the stock Cherokee 1" bore.

It does bolt up to the stock location just fine and the fittings are the same as on a Cherokee. However I will have to use the cap from the stock MC as the cap from the Dodge 2500 MC has a bump in it which only clears the hood by about 1/16". By swapping caps, I can gain another 1/8". Still tight, but it clears.

I will try and get some pictures up of some side by side shots later.

Another thing I found interesting was all over everyone seemed to mention in more than one place a 5/8" extension of the pushrod was needed (difference in the pushrods). I can't see were that is coming from. Upon measuring the two last night here is a quick horrid MS paint drawing of what I found:

MC_Differences.jpg


I see a 5/8" measurement in there, but it looks and seems to me the pushrod needs to be extended by 0.95", at least with the dual diaphragm booster. Maybe it is different for those with the single diaphragm booster? EDIT: THIS IS INCORRECT. See below. I picked up some new 1/4-28 bolts to make a pushrod from so I'll give it a shot tonight.
 
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RCman said:
So I started messing around with the MC last night as my brake pedal feel was nill at best. With huge Ford twin piston calipers up front and single piston GM calipers out back the stock MC just isn't up to the task.

There are a LOT of threads on this on both NAXJA and the PBB. Lots and lots of posts with very conflicting information. I just ended up heading down to the auto parts store and comparing them on the counter. I came home with a MC from a '99 Dodge Ram Truck 2500 with the 5.9L gasser. This MC has a 1 1/4" bore over the stock Cherokee 1" bore.

It does bolt up to the stock location just fine and the fittings are the same as on a Cherokee. However I will have to use the cap from the stock MC as the cap from the Dodge 2500 MC has a bump in it which only clears the hood by about 1/16". By swapping caps, I can gain another 1/8". Still tight, but it clears.

I will try and get some pictures up of some side by side shots later.

Another thing I found interesting was all over everyone seemed to mention in more than one place a 5/8" extension of the pushrod was needed (difference in the pushrods). I can't see were that is coming from. Upon measuring the two last night here is a quick horrid MS paint drawing of what I found:

MC_Differences.jpg


I see a 5/8" measurement in there, but it looks and seems to me the pushrod needs to be extended by 0.95", at least with the dual diaphragm booster. Maybe it is different for those with the single diaphragm booster? I picked up some new 1/4-28 bolts to make a pushrod from so I'll give it a shot tonight.
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On mine, it was 5/8". The plunger slips inside the MC a little ways, so you have to measure the depth it goes in, and subtract the total depth. I didn't trust messing with that depth adjustment, I used a 12mm or 14mm bolt (I don't remember exactly what size it was, but it was metric, and 90% sure it was one of those) that had a shank on it (with no threads) and sectioned out that shank portion to the right length. It fit the bore PREFECTLY, with no chance of binding on any edges. I concaved the one end of the spacer slightly to keep the pushrod centered on it (so cut the spacer a little long to account for this).

Measure it again... I think you'll find it needs to be approx. 5/8".
 
Andy in Pa. said:
On mine, it was 5/8". The plunger slips inside the MC a little ways, so you have to measure the depth it goes in, and subtract the total depth. I didn't trust messing with that depth adjustment, I used a 12mm or 14mm bolt (I don't remember exactly what size it was, but it was metric, and 90% sure it was one of those) that had a shank on it (with no threads) and sectioned out that shank portion to the right length. It fit the bore PREFECTLY, with no chance of binding on any edges. I concaved the one end of the spacer slightly to keep the pushrod centered on it (so cut the spacer a little long to account for this).

Measure it again... I think you'll find it needs to be approx. 5/8".
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Maybe it is the lack of sleep again or I'm dumb, but I'm confused. I guess this is why there is so much misinformation on the subject. :laugh:

Edit: I see it now. I am dumb. Thanks Andy!

Rather than making a spacer to go inside, I'm just going to lengthen the pushrod. Either way, the distance would be the same just taken up differently.
 
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RCman said:
I will try and get some pictures up of some side by side shots later.
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:rolleyes:

Left to right: '95 XJ/ZJ dual-diaphram master, '99 Dodge 2500 master, '94 Dodge 2500 master

DSC02859.JPG


DSC02858.JPG


DSC02856.JPG


I did the same thing as Andy with the bolt chunk for a pushrod spacer. Mine's a little short, there's a bit of free play at the top of the pedal, but I haven't gone through the trouble of taking it apart to change it. Nominally it was 5/8".
 
Well you gentlemen were correct, thanks again for straightening me out. I'm not sure what I was thinking. I made sure to check the pedal travel before I seated everything because of your note about free play Chris. I ended up being just a hair more than 5/8", closer to 9/16" really. Thanks for the comparison photos, no need to post mine now. Interesting yours has a different cap than mine though.

The difference is HUGE! I have a nice firm pedal now and the Jeep stops QUICK! I am very very glad I didn't wait to do the swap.

I removed the picture above as it contained incorrect information that doesn't need to be spread around.
 
I just heard from a certain someone, and judging from the picture, I believe this might be finished...

AWESOME BILL.
 
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