Project Downward Spiral

RCman said:
I looked at this. It really isn't possible to gain anywhere near 3" with the doors on. As it sits now from the top of the rail to the top of the door pad is exactly 1-13/16". So, I could gain that if I modified the bottom of the doors. Here's where the dilemma was going on in my head, being as my rockers are already a fair amount off the ground at ride height (I can't recall the exact dimension) I didn't really think it was necessary to go through all that work rebuilding the pillars, floor corner, and cutting up the doors to gain less than 2".
Am I wrong there?

In order to get the full 3" there would have to be some serious surgery or run without doors. I'm going to avoid this as I want to be able to have a sealed passenger compartment for the winter wheelin' trips.

Where the rockers sit now the 2x2x0.188 braces that are going to run from them down the the unibody rail should just kiss through on inside the floorboards by about 5/8" or so. This is perfect as it'll give me a place to tie the cage tubing into.
Click to expand...
Im hoping to do boatsides this summer, and Im going to try and get them up to the body line on the doors. Gets me about 7'' more clearance then running regular rock rails.


I think I will be able to do it, and keep both functional doors, and windows that roll all the way down. Hopefully.
 
How are you going to do that!!!! I may have been off on my guestimate of an additional 3", but I am definitely putting my rock rails up to the bottom of the inner portion of the doors. In order to keep the doors functional and allow the window to fully roll down, I don't see how you can go higher. If you've got some sort of great idea, clue me in as I've not gotten to that part of my project yet and would love to go higher with the rails. I suppose one could make it so after the door is shut, the window could be rolled all the way down. However, it would have to be rolled up again before you could open the door! :) Jeff
 
Jeff 98XJ WI said:
How are you going to do that!!!! I may have been off on my guestimate of an additional 3", but I am definitely putting my rock rails up to the bottom of the inner portion of the doors. In order to keep the doors functional and allow the window to fully roll down, I don't see how you can go higher. If you've got some sort of great idea, clue me in as I've not gotten to that part of my project yet and would love to go higher with the rails. I suppose one could make it so after the door is shut, the window could be rolled all the way down. However, it would have to be rolled up again before you could open the door! :) Jeff
Click to expand...

I've looked into the same thing with the goal of getting to that body line. The window would have to be modified; when the window is all the way up, there is a part of the glass that is about 6" lower than the window sill... that's the part that ends up below the body line when the window is down. That part attaches to the mechanical system for rolling the window up and down. The glass would have to be cut just below the sill (when the window is up) and the mechanical part would have to be modified a bit. The track could be cut, but it would have to be re-attached to the new bottom of the door. Then you'd have to figure out how the bottom would seal when the door is closed.

Billy
 
JeepFreak21 said:
I've looked into the same thing with the goal of getting to that body line. The window would have to be modified; when the window is all the way up, there is a part of the glass that is about 6" lower than the window sill... that's the part that ends up below the body line when the window is down. That part attaches to the mechanical system for rolling the window up and down. The glass would have to be cut just below the sill (when the window is up) and the mechanical part would have to be modified a bit. The track could be cut, but it would have to be re-attached to the new bottom of the door. Then you'd have to figure out how the bottom would seal when the door is closed.

Billy
Click to expand...
Again, I havent actually done it yet, so all this is kind of guessing on how things will work out.

For my 89 2 door with manual windows, the glass doesnt stick all that far down below the body line. Im thinking I can modify the bracket that holds the window to the rolling mechanism as that is really the only thing that sticks down.



I think the hardest part will be how to get the hinges to be strong enough to hold the weight of the door while being closer together.





As for sealing things, Im not sure how to seal it either. I was thinking of angling the new rocker like RCman did with his. At least on my Jeep the bottom of the door doesnt have a seal, and my Jeep if far from being air tight, so Im not all that worried about wind noise while driving.
 
Spanky88 said:
now that i can post here, the rig is lookin f&%^$in great. get the dang thing drivinn already
Click to expand...
Thank you. :)
JeepFreak21 said:
I've looked into the same thing with the goal of getting to that body line. The window would have to be modified; when the window is all the way up, there is a part of the glass that is about 6" lower than the window sill... that's the part that ends up below the body line when the window is down. That part attaches to the mechanical system for rolling the window up and down. The glass would have to be cut just below the sill (when the window is up) and the mechanical part would have to be modified a bit. The track could be cut, but it would have to be re-attached to the new bottom of the door. Then you'd have to figure out how the bottom would seal when the door is closed.

Billy
Click to expand...
THIS is exactly what I do not want to have to get into.
Right now, at ride height, I am at 30-1/8" from the ground to the lowest part of my rockers. Is it really worth all that extra work to gain another 1-13/16"? I don't think so, but I'm still open to suggestions I can still move them at this point I haven't made the cross braces and they won't be made until the cage hoops are in.

Starboard M said:
As for sealing things, Im not sure how to seal it either. I was thinking of angling the new rocker like RCman did with his. At least on my Jeep the bottom of the door doesnt have a seal, and my Jeep if far from being air tight, so Im not all that worried about wind noise while driving.
Click to expand...
Other than the hole in my passenger floor due to the 3rd link that will be getting a 'cover' and the rear section of floor that is going to get replaced I'll have a "sealed" Jeep for winter wheelin'. The 2-3 degree angle will hopefully (in theory) keep water from sitting on that sill and trying to make its way into the Jeep when I'm not moving.
 
So I finally got the seat figured out and in a position where it felt like it would be comfortable for me to be driving. I convinced (with a 3lb sledge and a flat bar) the section of floor that was in the way that it really wanted to be lower. ;) Came out nice and even and now the seat sits were it should.

I did have spend a few minutes creating and painting these brackets to reposition part of the slider 5" over from the side of the seat. This was the only way I could manage to keep the slider, not cut the floor, and have room for my head to clear the roof. I think it'll be ok. I might have spent to much time figuring out the slider for the driver's when I really could have just hard mounted where I wanted it as I'll be the one driving it anyway. :) This only has to be done on the driver's side as the passenger's side of the trans tunnel doesn't have any budges in it and the seat fits fine with the factory intended mounts.
Driver_SeatBracket.jpg


The seat underside showing the newly positioned slider:
Driver_SeatBracketInstalled.jpg


Seat sitting down as it should. You can see here that the slider release should not be in the way at all. Yes I still have to build the mounts for the seat to sit on, thats after I get the cage started as it'll all tie together.
Seat_MountIssueFixed.jpg


Then work began to figure out the B-Pillar hoop for the cage. Being that I'm a tall person the hoop has to be kind of far back in order for my head to clear if for some reason it gets forced back. One of the last things I want is to nail my nogin off the cage coming off a ledge or something.
This picture shows about where the B-Pillar hoop will be (no other cage parts are drawn in this picture).
BPillar_Drawing.jpg


This picture shows what the B-Pillar hoop should look like when all said and done. Sorry for the mirror image, I didn't feel like drawing both the driver's and the passenger's side. :D (Again no other cage parts are drawn in this picture)
BPillar_Drawing2.jpg


Then because I'm new to the whole tube bending thing I decided it would be time well spent to lay it all out on cardboard and ensure I got my measurements right.
BPillar_Layout.jpg


Tomorrow night I double check everything and get set for bending up the actual hoop.
 
Starboard M said:
How far down were you able to get the seat? Is it close to the Tcase?
Click to expand...
I was able to get the seat low enough that it gives me (6' 3") just enough head room at the roof.
The area of the floor that I 'modified' is still about 1.75-2" or so away from the t-case.

Tonight I got the cardboard B-Pillar all set and was going to bend it up before I realized that I didn't have any good way to make sure I kept the bends in the same plan. I remembered seeing someone somewhere cut and modify a cheap c-clamp so that's what I replicated. Didn't snap any pictures, but I'll be sure to take some tomorrow.
 
I just look at the tube and the die, and make sure they are in the same plane before I bend it.

Its not that complicated.

just reference the follower die, and the tube, and you'll be fine. :thumbup:
 
XJ_ranger said:
I just look at the tube and the die, and make sure they are in the same plane before I bend it.

Its not that complicated.

just reference the follower die, and the tube, and you'll be fine. :thumbup:
Click to expand...
Yah, the few bends I've done before I've done that. It works alright. Mainly I wanted it for when they are not in the same plane, it'll allow me to get it just right.
I've already made the tool, so I'll use it. :D
 
Nice double post vetteboy. ;)
I was going to do something simple like that, but after looking for 20min for a peice of box tubing that would fit over the tube, I couldn't find anything. All my stuff is smaller. :(

Here is my version of the "plane of bend tool". (note, I used it when it was still in it's primer state as I didn't want to have to wait for paint to dry. It's now a nifty red.)
PlaaneofBendTool1.jpg


Finally got a chance to start bending up the B-Pillar.
Had to bend it outside as the "shop" didn't have the ceiling clearance. :)
BPillar_Bending.jpg


That few minutes of figuring and cardboard paid off, lines up perfect.
BPillarBendCalc.jpg


Cut some holes in the floor where the rocker/cage supports will be going. Test fitted the hoop, fit very well. Mocked the seat back up and figured that I would have to put a slight bend in the crossbar so that the belt mounts would clear the back of the seat. Bent that up, and put it in place. No, the wood holding up the hoop is not staying. (note the seat and the bar are about 1.5" high in this picture. I had the seat resting on a 2x4 and didn't realize it until after, thankfully it doesn't change anything other than the height of the crossbar)
BPillar_SemiComplete1.jpg


Notches came out pretty well for an angle grinder. ;)
BPillarHoopCrossbarJoint.jpg
 
:party: :party: :party:


AWESOME :D :D
 
Well as much as it pains me to say it this project will have to take the back burner for at least another weekend.
We picked up another new toy for my lady. :D

99XJ, 4.0L, AW4, NP231, D30, C8.25
99Cherokee.jpg


It needs some work, but it should end up being a good DD for her.
On the list:
- Figure out the cylinder head issue and repair it (hopefully just the gasket)
- Both front u-joints need replacing
- Rear brakes need replacing
- Driver's window mechanism needs work
- Flashers cause fuse to blow, got to fix that
 
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