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Project: Comanche Chief

I made the first one work. Just right click on the pic from your link, select "copy image url"

that's what you want to put btw the


use what i posted for ref...can you still edit? if not I'll fix them later.

mac 'everyone is a newb once' gyvr

Thank you sir! At this rate, I'll be hacking into government main frames in no time
 
Thank you sir! At this rate, I'll be hacking into government main frames in no time

No problem. Enjoy teaching people to learn.

That rust almost makes me sick.

I did the floor boards in the baby jeep a few years ago and it is a lot of work...

mac 'can't wait til its done tho' gyvr
 
Got to work on the MJ for a bit tonight.. I was able to cut out the patches and wire wheel the floor to see what I'm really working with.

The driver's side is about exactly what I thought it would be, so no surprises there:
Drvr%2520Side%2520Floor.JPG

Drvr%2520floor%2520front.JPG

Drvr%2520Floor%2520Front%2520Left.JPG


The passenger side front was also about what I expected.. much better than the driver's side:
Pass%2520Side%2520Floor.JPG

Pass%2520Side%2520Floor2.JPG

Pass%2520Side%2520Tunnel.JPG


Now here is where the only surprise was... The passenger side rear. It has lots of good steel but some random pinholes.. Not too thrilled about having to replace 3/4 of the entire floor, but I'm not sure of any shortcuts here. Any job worth doing is a job worth doing right! Right?

Pass%2520Side%2520Under%2520Seat.JPG


Pass%2520Rear.JPG


Anyone ever stumbled across a one-piece floor pan for an MJ? Also, I think I've decided to keep my eyes peeled for an XJ firewall so that I can knock out all the body work at once before I get into my donor XJ.
 
Yeah, so that sucks. I've read some good reviews about these guys on other MJ sites.

Floor Pans from C2CFabrication.com

The good news is that the only rust I have to repair will be hidden under some POR15, some rubberized undercoating, a layer of Dynamat, carpet and heavy floor mats.
Those C2C floor pans are nothing more than XJ floor pans. The guy I have doing the body work on my truck was very disappointed in them. You would probably be money and time ahead to cut the floors out of a donor XJ. You could even get it out in one piece (rocker to rocker) if you took the time. I wish I had done this.

I am looking forward to watching this build.
 
Those C2C floor pans are nothing more than XJ floor pans. The guy I have doing the body work on my truck was very disappointed in them. You would probably be money and time ahead to cut the floors out of a donor XJ. You could even get it out in one piece (rocker to rocker) if you took the time. I wish I had done this.

I am looking forward to watching this build.

Thats what I'm noticing in the pictures. I even found OEM Chrysler rocker to rocker floor pans for the XJ that include the tunnel for $230.. But MJ and XJ are different from under the seats back.

XJ:
31SM6YT3DGL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


If you look back at my MJ picks, my floor gradually slopes up on the frame channels towards the bed.
 
May have to buy that floor pan and modify it to fit the MJ. I'm guessing all MJ floor pans are custom if they are replaced anyways.
 
I would be tempted to leave the top portion of my frame rail off, cap tge rail from underneath the floor pan with 1/8" and put the xj pan on top. Then I can use my xj seat brackets without modification (notching them out) and have a flat floor pan for xj carpet.

If I'm thinking right, there would then be a gap between the frame rail and the pan under the seats... Not sure that would be an issue though.
 
I would be tempted to leave the top portion of my frame rail off, cap tge rail from underneath the floor pan with 1/8" and put the xj pan on top. Then I can use my xj seat brackets without modification (notching them out) and have a flat floor pan for xj carpet.

If I'm thinking right, there would then be a gap between the frame rail and the pan under the seats... Not sure that would be an issue though.
This is close to the direction I would go, but I would re-install the frame rail cap. Take your time removing them and buy lots of spot weld removers from HF. The necessity of the frame caps is really unknown, but I was inclined to keep them since I plan on using the truck, as a truck.

If I was doing it for a 3rd time, I would cut out the floor pan out of a donor XJ, rocker to rock and mid-firewall to just past the seat brackets. Since MJ rot seems starts at the firewall/floor pan seam, a few inches of firewall usually needs replaced anyhow. The firewall and front part of the tunnel are the same shape between MJ and XJ. You will need to massage the XJ tunnel to fit the MJ floor at the back, but this could be done so that it is under the console or under a bench seat. Then patch the inevitable holes formed under the blobs of seam sealer in the back corners of the cab.
 
This is close to the direction I would go, but I would re-install the frame rail cap. Take your time removing them and buy lots of spot weld removers from HF. The necessity of the frame caps is really unknown, but I was inclined to keep them since I plan on using the truck, as a truck.

If I was doing it for a 3rd time, I would cut out the floor pan out of a donor XJ, rocker to rock and mid-firewall to just past the seat brackets. Since MJ rot seems starts at the firewall/floor pan seam, a few inches of firewall usually needs replaced anyhow. The firewall and front part of the tunnel are the same shape between MJ and XJ. You will need to massage the XJ tunnel to fit the MJ floor at the back, but this could be done so that it is under the console or under a bench seat. Then patch the inevitable holes formed under the blobs of seam sealer in the back corners of the cab.

I would cap them as well, besides we already know you'll probably end up diesel swapping it anyways! :D
 
Well, while I continue to deliberate on flooring options, I'd like to move forward on the axles.

Was looking at Rusty's for rear spring perches:
LSP3AW_01.jpg


as well as front coil spring/shock perches:
RC-CSSM_01.jpg


I think I can get away without moving front lower control arm mounts. They are spaced about an inch wider than XJ. Uppers are the same.

Also need to consider xj trackbar geometry with WJ steering.

Any thoughts?
 
Ruff Stuff is the shit, hands down. If you want to build something that is gonna last and get the great customer service behind it, go with Ruff Stuff.....Dan is a great guy and they sell top quality parts...I have NEVER had a breakage problem or any problem for that matter, with stuff from them. Rusty's...well, I cant say the same.
 
I run Rusty's shocks and pinup stickers...
 
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