pre 91 XJ performance parts Q.

MaxxTraxx

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Plano, Texas
I recently got a 89 XJ, and it seems no one makes headers, throttle bodies, intakes, etc for anything older than 91.

Any reason why?

For the pre 91 guys, what have you done and are you happy with it?

I'm looking at Rustys cat back, intake and TB spacer..any reasons not to go with Rusty's stuff?
 
I have a 60mm bored tb(Leigh Performance) and high-alt ckp(5* base timing advance) for my 88 eliminator. I've read of people using ho headers and blocking off the egr(:shocked:), though if you searched, you might find a renix borla for sale. I can not speak for Rusty's but have seen other people's complaints. . . I'd say wait around for the next dynomax sale and get your cat-back for $50-75. Say no to K&N(and any oiled filter for that matter) and any metal intake tubes. I prefer the amsoil nano-fiber filters(the only oil product of theirs I've used was Severe Gear, so I'm not a fanboy).
 
I have a 60mm bored tb(Leigh Performance) and high-alt ckp(5* base timing advance) for my 88 eliminator. I've read of people using ho headers and blocking off the egr(:shocked:), though if you searched, you might find a renix borla for sale. I can not speak for Rusty's but have seen other people's complaints. . . I'd say wait around for the next dynomax sale and get your cat-back for $50-75. Say no to K&N(and any oiled filter for that matter) and any metal intake tubes. I prefer the amsoil nano-fiber filters(the only oil product of theirs I've used was Severe Gear, so I'm not a fanboy).

Gradon offers good advice here. I have installed 2 throttle bodies from Leigh Performance Machine with excellent results. I'm ordering another for my next project.

Having a muffler shop replace your downpipe with one that sweeps back and eliminates the crimp in it will add a few ponies. Upgrade to late model 4 hole injectors will help a bit and eliminate the propensity for fuel leaks and subsequent fires from your stock injectors. www.precisionautoinjectors.com has provided a set for my 88 and my 90 and will soon provide a set for the 87 I'm building.
 
Easy build list I recommend.
1st order is from Leighs performance.
-1 throttle body
-1 fuel pressure regulator
2nd order
-precision auto injectors
3rd order is from a muffler shop
-new down pipe
-muffler of your choice( I recomend spintech)
4th order
- new spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, from the auto parts store
5th order
-msd 6al ignition box w/ rev limiter
-MSD blaster coil
6th order
-camshaft and lifters
8th order
-a header
7th order
-build a stroker engine!!!!!

honestly, the best bang for your buck on a renix (87-90 4.0) is a leighs performance throttle body.
 
awesome....thanks guys....thats the kinda info im looking for.

I have Rustys cat back/intake/TB on my 91 XJ and it is alright, I havent had any issues with it.
 
Easy build list I recommend.
1st order is from Leighs performance.
-1 throttle body
-1 fuel pressure regulator
2nd order
-precision auto injectors
3rd order is from a muffler shop
-new down pipe
-muffler of your choice( I recomend spintech)
4th order
- new spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, from the auto parts store
5th order
-msd 6al ignition box w/ rev limiter
-MSD blaster coil
6th order
-camshaft and lifters
8th order
-a header
7th order
-build a stroker engine!!!!!

honestly, the best bang for your buck on a renix (87-90 4.0) is a leighs performance throttle body.


this is the most well put together post iv'e ever seen. I'm copy/pasting, using, buying... thanks
 
Easy build list I recommend.
1st order is from Leighs performance.
-1 throttle body
-1 fuel pressure regulator
2nd order
-precision auto injectors
3rd order is from a muffler shop
-new down pipe
-muffler of your choice( I recomend spintech)
4th order
- new spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, from the auto parts store
5th order
-msd 6al ignition box w/ rev limiter
-MSD blaster coil
6th order
-camshaft and lifters
8th order
-a header
7th order
-build a stroker engine!!!!!

honestly, the best bang for your buck on a renix (87-90 4.0) is a leighs performance throttle body.

What kind of header are you planning on? I've been wanting to get one for my Renix, but have heard of a lot fitment issues with APN style headers.
 
I have a Borla on my 89 and really like it. I'm putting in a Comp Extreme 4x4 cam and lifters today and plan on getting a TB real soon and making my own intake. I have a full 2.5 exhaust from the header back. with 3.55 gears and 32s my jeep will spin them dry. oh and my engines .060 over
 
I recently got a 89 XJ, and it seems no one makes headers, throttle bodies, intakes, etc for anything older than 91.

Any reason why?

For the pre 91 guys, what have you done and are you happy with it?

I'm looking at Rustys cat back, intake and TB spacer..any reasons not to go with Rusty's stuff?

That's an easy one - the RENIX rigs (1987-1990 XJ/MJ w/AMC engine) were the "odd man out" for production. It was easier to get CARB approval for OBD-I and OBD-II parts than for pre-OBD parts, so they didn't bother (if they can't do a fifty-states legal street part, they generally don't bother. Unless the market is, they are sure, there - the CARB approval process is onerous and spendy.)

If you're willing to do a little fabricating and the Air Police aren't a factor for you, you can open up your choices and increase parts availability - so let's look at a few things...

- Bored Throttle Body - while you can have an OEM RENIX throttle body bored, there's really no reason to do so. The OEM RENIX tbody will support airflow to feed even a stroker up around five litres displacement, so what of it? You will note an increase in part-throttle responsiveness, but that isn't an increase in power (has to do with flow dynamics, physics, and geometry.)

- Throttle Body Spacer - I'm not sure about these. As far as I'm concerned, the jury is still out on the potential benefits on the nominal increase in plenum volume obtained with a throttle body spacer plate. You'd get much more benefit from Helmholtz tuning and construction of an intake from whole cloth - but that's a major project.

- Headers - Are there true "equal length" headers out there for us? I need to check. However, the primary difference between 1987-1990 and 1991-1999 is the presence/absence of the EGR tube bung (deleted for 1991,) and the 2000-2006 headers are split 1/2/3 and 4/5/6 with two pre-cats on the thing. I believe the collector is in a different location between the 1987-1990 and 1991-1999 header, but don't hold me to that at the moment.

If the Air Police aren't a factor, the 242ci will run just fine without the EGR (and cleaner - I've got before/after test reports from a failed EGR valve on my 87!) but removal of the thing is still a violation of Federal "Clean Air" regulations (found in 49CFR, I think,) so it's still technically illegal. While I think the thing is a bad idea and useless on low-compression engines, I do not and can not advocate removal of the thing - even if it gets replaced with a more effective system (like a water/MeOH fogger setup.) You Have Been Warned (and I'm hoping that last statement will keep me from getting clobbered...)

An equal length tuned header will generally increase performance within a certain RPM range, so it's best to make sure what it's tuned for before you buy it. Or, have one made to increase exhaust output around the torque peak of the engine combination (generally accepted as around 2800-3200rpm with stock bumpstick) and go with that. The custom piece will cost you more than a box part (unless you can talk several people into getting one - that will help spread the cost out over several parts, and you can always send buddies to that shop for parts...) but you'll net more benefit from it.

- Camshaft Swap - This is, dollar-for-dollar, one of the best things you can do to increase performance! The RENIX computer is highly adaptable, and generally sorts itself out with any cam you hand it. All of the later AMC sixes (199/232/258/242ci) share a common cam blank, so these are readily available. Select or design your header to complement your camshaft.

- Cylinder Head Swap - The RENIX head is known for being restrictive, and corrective actions are relatively minor in effect. Easiest to swap to a #7120 or #0630 head (1991-1995 or 1996-1999) and intake setup - you'll open things up with that swap more than you can using a flowbench. And, you can clean the head casting up and get even more flow out of it.

- Strokers. Pound for pound, this is pretty much the ne plus ultra of performance mods for us. Get the reciprocating assembly out of a 258ci engine (for max benefit) or a 232ci engine (less benefit, but still an increase,) put on the 242ci pistons (they're larger,) and drop the whole thing in. Even a simple swap will still get you some 35-36ci displacement increase, and you'll notice the torque addition right away! This can be done alone or in combination with any of the other mods (if you take the block and have it bored, you'll get an even greater increase in displacement - meaning more torque. The torque is increased by the longer stroke and increased compression ratio... You may end up having to kick up to 89AKI fuel instead of 87 to get the full benefit, but it's worth it.)

There's nothing wrong with Rusty's parts, but opinions on his service vary. Search him up, read through the posts, take the appropriate grain of salt, and do what you feel is right.
 
That's an easy one - the RENIX rigs (1987-1990 XJ/MJ w/AMC engine) were the "odd man out" for production. It was easier to get CARB approval for OBD-I and OBD-II parts than for pre-OBD parts, so they didn't bother (if they can't do a fifty-states legal street part, they generally don't bother. Unless the market is, they are sure, there - the CARB approval process is onerous and spendy.)

If you're willing to do a little fabricating and the Air Police aren't a factor for you, you can open up your choices and increase parts availability - so let's look at a few things...

- Bored Throttle Body - while you can have an OEM RENIX throttle body bored, there's really no reason to do so. The OEM RENIX tbody will support airflow to feed even a stroker up around five litres displacement, so what of it? You will note an increase in part-throttle responsiveness, but that isn't an increase in power (has to do with flow dynamics, physics, and geometry.)

- Throttle Body Spacer - I'm not sure about these. As far as I'm concerned, the jury is still out on the potential benefits on the nominal increase in plenum volume obtained with a throttle body spacer plate. You'd get much more benefit from Helmholtz tuning and construction of an intake from whole cloth - but that's a major project.

- Headers - Are there true "equal length" headers out there for us? I need to check. However, the primary difference between 1987-1990 and 1991-1999 is the presence/absence of the EGR tube bung (deleted for 1991,) and the 2000-2006 headers are split 1/2/3 and 4/5/6 with two pre-cats on the thing. I believe the collector is in a different location between the 1987-1990 and 1991-1999 header, but don't hold me to that at the moment.

If the Air Police aren't a factor, the 242ci will run just fine without the EGR (and cleaner - I've got before/after test reports from a failed EGR valve on my 87!) but removal of the thing is still a violation of Federal "Clean Air" regulations (found in 49CFR, I think,) so it's still technically illegal. While I think the thing is a bad idea and useless on low-compression engines, I do not and can not advocate removal of the thing - even if it gets replaced with a more effective system (like a water/MeOH fogger setup.) You Have Been Warned (and I'm hoping that last statement will keep me from getting clobbered...)

An equal length tuned header will generally increase performance within a certain RPM range, so it's best to make sure what it's tuned for before you buy it. Or, have one made to increase exhaust output around the torque peak of the engine combination (generally accepted as around 2800-3200rpm with stock bumpstick) and go with that. The custom piece will cost you more than a box part (unless you can talk several people into getting one - that will help spread the cost out over several parts, and you can always send buddies to that shop for parts...) but you'll net more benefit from it.

- Camshaft Swap - This is, dollar-for-dollar, one of the best things you can do to increase performance! The RENIX computer is highly adaptable, and generally sorts itself out with any cam you hand it. All of the later AMC sixes (199/232/258/242ci) share a common cam blank, so these are readily available. Select or design your header to complement your camshaft.

- Cylinder Head Swap - The RENIX head is known for being restrictive, and corrective actions are relatively minor in effect. Easiest to swap to a #7120 or #0630 head (1991-1995 or 1996-1999) and intake setup - you'll open things up with that swap more than you can using a flowbench. And, you can clean the head casting up and get even more flow out of it.

- Strokers. Pound for pound, this is pretty much the ne plus ultra of performance mods for us. Get the reciprocating assembly out of a 258ci engine (for max benefit) or a 232ci engine (less benefit, but still an increase,) put on the 242ci pistons (they're larger,) and drop the whole thing in. Even a simple swap will still get you some 35-36ci displacement increase, and you'll notice the torque addition right away! This can be done alone or in combination with any of the other mods (if you take the block and have it bored, you'll get an even greater increase in displacement - meaning more torque. The torque is increased by the longer stroke and increased compression ratio... You may end up having to kick up to 89AKI fuel instead of 87 to get the full benefit, but it's worth it.)

There's nothing wrong with Rusty's parts, but opinions on his service vary. Search him up, read through the posts, take the appropriate grain of salt, and do what you feel is right.

right on Mr. John. One of the best characters to ever enter the xj comunity right here...and undoubtedly one of the reasons i still have a renix. Loving your wires. I'm getting a cam now.
 
As far as cat-back, I believe mudfrogk5 has a low cost system.
 
That's an easy one - the RENIX rigs (1987-1990 XJ/MJ w/AMC engine)
- Camshaft Swap - This is, dollar-for-dollar, one of the best things you can do to increase performance! The RENIX computer is highly adaptable, and generally sorts itself out with any cam you hand it. All of the later AMC sixes (199/232/258/242ci) share a common cam blank, so these are readily available. Select or design your header to complement your camshaft.

have you done this on a stock renix w/ stock displacement and airflow? If so what cam did you use?
 
have you done this on a stock renix w/ stock displacement and airflow? If so what cam did you use?

I have not (and my stroker is planned a bit, er, "differently." I'm hoping I have a block that will still give me .125" wall or better at 4.000" bore, for starters...) but many people have. Whenever I make a statement like that, it's based on one of two things:

1) Personal experience. I've done this - or something like it - before with good results. Preferably several times...

2) Reports from the field. I keep a watch on what people do, and how, and when they ask my opinion on things. In the latter case, I ask them to report back after it's been running for a while (they usually do;) and we'll either decide it's good, brain out ways to improve what was done, or whatever. If any negative reports come back, they get accounted for as 'caveats' when I make my statements.

However, I'm not one to go out on a limb, I don't like to make assumptions, and I very rarely construct conclusions from whole cloth (and then, they're still soundly based on known theory and similar experiences.) Besides, in the rare case I do something like that, I make it pitifully clear that that is exactly what I am doing, and you should therefore take an appropriate grain of salt.

Given half a chance, my stroker should end up being:

- RENIX block bored out to 4.000", provided I have .125" wall or better all around, all holes.
- Offset ground 12-cw 258ci crank, for a stroke of about 4.000" as well (I can't get information on the 4.125" crank out of Flatlander, so I'm probably on my own here.)
- #7120 cylinder head.
- 1999-up "ram's horn" intake manifold.
- MegaSquirt engine management, or adapt the GM mid-1980's V6 DIS/COP setup (probably the former. I'm no stranger to electronic construction and repair...)

If I have a chance, I'd like to fab up an intake from whole cloth and lay a Lysholm in there on its side (below the hoodline,) but that's definitely a "blue sky" goal for this project...
 
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