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Plug and play ATK 4.7

Good to know, I had been considering it. I have no experience with it and was interested. I have had great results with my current setup, I was just curious.

Once you get over a certain size it just turns into throttle respone anyway.
 
I pulled the trigger! I ordered my ATK 4.7 this morning. Total was $2,750 and it will be here in 3 days. 2 year unlimited mileage warranty and it covers parts AND labor!
 
I pulled the trigger! I ordered my ATK 4.7 this morning. Total was $2,750 and it will be here in 3 days. 2 year unlimited mileage warranty and it covers parts AND labor!

Where are you seeing $2750 and 2 year unlimited warranty? Also, Whats the price of shipping?

Just in case my engine goes boom! :D
 
Please keep us posted on your progress as you install the engine. I’m thinking of doing the same. I totally understand what you meant with your questions when posted this thread. I actually have the same concern.

Adding an air filter, wider TB and replacing the injectors and headers do not seem like a challenge. My concern is when things turn to computer/electrical. If this will require tuning, then what needs to be done? How? What tools? How easy can it be done? And can I just take it to someone who can do this? ... Those are my real concerns and I think this is probably what you had in mind.

By the way, if someone is familiar with building and tuning GM engines, is it easy for him to tune jeep stokers ? Or does it require different skills, tools … etc.?
 
Where are you seeing $2750 and 2 year unlimited warranty? Also, Whats the price of shipping?

Just in case my engine goes boom! :D

I called Gear Head Engines and talked to the sales guy, he said the price was $2,794, we chatted for awhile and I kept telling him I wanted it to be $2,700. He said no can do, no can do, no can do... blah blah. I finally told him I would give him credit card number right now if he can meet me at $2,750. He said ok! That price INCLUDES shipping, AND there is no core charge.... so I am can still sell my 4.0 to someone wanting to build there own stroker!

It comes with a 2 year warranty with unlimited mileage, and it covers parts AND labor (only at a shop rate of $42/hr tho)!

I found some e-bay LT1 injectors last night that sells them already ultrasonic cleaned and flow rated to within 1% of each other and comes with a report for $130 shipped!

I ordered my 4.7 monday morning, its coming from Texas, and will be on my step TODAY (Wednesday)!

I can't wait to get it in!
 
My concern is when things turn to computer/electrical. If this will require tuning, then what needs to be done? How? What tools? How easy can it be done? And can I just take it to someone who can do this?
There are several options for tunning. The Unichip is good, but you need to either find a shop that can tune it (you can't yourself) or go with a shop familiar with the stroker to send you one with a tune on it already, like Hesco. The Unichip is a piggy back and can adjust a host of other parameters besides AFR and timing. An SCT tuner is also another good option and can do what the Unichip can do. Like the unichip you have to find a shop that can program one or find a dealer that can send one out with a tune. The SCT is a plug in programmer.. plug it in to your OBD port and flash the PCM. Split Second PSC or Apexi can be used. They are both AFR piggy back tuners which you can change yourself. Expect to spend about $400 for the tuner and I high recommend a data logging wideband gauge.

By the way, if someone is familiar with building and tuning GM engines, is it easy for him to tune jeep stokers ? Or does it require different skills, tools … etc.?
It depends on how he is tunning the GM PCM. I know that some GM PCMs are open, meaning they can easily be changed with just software. If that is what he is doing it wont' work on a Jeep JTEC PCM. If he is using an SCT or Unichip type or other piggy back he shouldn't have problem tuning a Jeep engine.
 
Thanks Talyn for the information. Sorry if I seem to be hijacking this thread, but I think the information is relevant to the subject.

The guy who tunes GM engines here has a Laptop that plugs into the GM’s PCM so he is probably just using software to do this. My question is: Will this guy know how to tune the Jeep if I supply him with one of the tools you mentioned above (Apexi for example)? By the way, he has a Dyno in his shop as well.

My other question is on the data logging gauge. Could you elaborate on this a little? What does it do and how is it used with the other tools?
 
I have Innovate's LM2 which is a handheld wideband o2 meter, obd2 scanner, and datalogger to a 1gb chip. It gets AFR info from the WBo2 and other info from the obd2 port. You select the various parameters you want to monitor such as RPM, MAP, Ignition, OL/CL, short term and long term fuel trims, coolant temp, air temp, throttle position %, and more. I find that it can only handle 4 parameters at once. If you're tuning a piggy-back, having the afrs, rpm, map, stft, and ltft are helpful. The Split Second PSC1(and probably Apexi) tunes on a RPM vs MAP graph. You throw those 24#(or 30#:) in and monitor the fts at idle and see that the trims are -10-20, the computer is pulling fuel out to maintain 14.7:1. You find the highlighted square(s) where the current rpmvsmap is and decrease the value until you get the fts to 0. WOT you see that you're getting a 15:1 ratio. You increase the value of squares until your afrs get down to 12.5-12.8(you saw that hesco liked 12.7). I haven't played with an ignition controller yet but did just throw a high-alt CKP in the eliminator to raise base timing 5*(tempted to slot it for more).
 
Red97XJ, any updates on you purchase?

I am mixed on it. I bought, did everything I was supposed to (slow break in, oil changes etc) and when I got about 4,000 miles on it I drove to a town about 45 minutes away (normally its my dd and I only drive about 15 min to and from work), on the way back it started making some SUPER loud noises. As in undrivable, almost no power.

Long story short, had to have cert mechanic pull motor, mail to back to TX, they inspected it. Said that it was there fault, had a flat spot on the cam... bent push rod and all. Sent me a different motor. Turn around was about 3 weeks, but my mechanic made that the 3, not the 2 it could of been. They only cover the first $350 of labor, and no parts or fluids. So that sucked, I ended up paying another $400.

new motor now has about 3,000 miles on it. Runs really good now and I am looking forward to it running along time.

Has lots of power! I put headers on it, and swapped out the injectors for Vette LT1 ones. Got them all flow matched. I also upgraded my radiator when I did it.
 
I can understand the warranty if it was something your fault or no ones fault. But it was their fault! Why should you have to spend another dime? That's crappy.

Notice any better mileage?
 
I can understand the warranty if it was something your fault or no ones fault. But it was their fault! Why should you have to spend another dime? That's crappy.

Notice any better mileage?

I have 32 tires, auto. ROOF RACK, and 4.56 gears. Before and after stroker I get a consistent 12-13 around town.
 
So other than flow matched higher rate fuel injectors you really haven't done anything to the EFI to get your engine running?
 
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