Plug and play ATK 4.7

wy_jeep said:
Bolt it straight in and no tinkering.

You've said you can't wait for a shop to build a motor, how come? You would save a lot of money over a reman. If you do decide the to do the stroker, having a shop build it would save you close to $1,000 over that ATK.
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My concern with a local shop building it is: #1 TIME! This is my dd!
#2. I have no clue what makes a good 4.7 a good one or a bad one, nor do I have the time to learn.... I live in poh-dung Indiana. I am positive any shop I go to, it would there first.
#3. ATK builds for Napa and Mopar, that makes me think they know what they are doing!
 
I Will be offline for a few hours.... but please keep the post coming, and please don't take my replies as argumentative.... just wanting to brain storm with all of you stroker brains!

Thanks for all the replies so far!

Does anyone see any problems with getting an ATK 4.7 and LT1 25lb injectors, installing it and driving it just like that for now?
 
Red97XJ said:
My concern with a local shop building it is: #1 TIME! This is my dd!
#2. I have no clue what makes a good 4.7 a good one or a bad one, nor do I have the time to learn.... I live in poh-dung Indiana. I am positive any shop I go to, it would there first.
#3. ATK builds for Napa and Mopar, that makes me think they know what they are doing!
Click to expand...

Do you think that if you order that 4.7 today that it's going to be at your house tomorrow?

I bet you're looking at 2 weeks at least. I've taken two engines to machine shops for work over the years, a 454 and a 283. I got both of them back 4 days later, machine work complete.

You're not saving time by ordering an engine, so don't convince yourself the dd arguement is why you're buying one.

I echo several posters already. If your 4.0 blew up at 140K, you did something wrong. If you can't figure out what that is, you shouldn't be trying to figure out how to make a 4.7 run well. I've been lurking around the NAXJA stroker discussions for a long time, there is nothing "drop in" about a stroker.
 
RedHeep said:
Do you think that if you order that 4.7 today that it's going to be at your house tomorrow?

I bet you're looking at 2 weeks at least. I've taken two engines to machine shops for work over the years, a 454 and a 283. I got both of them back 4 days later, machine work complete.

You're not saving time by ordering an engine, so don't convince yourself the dd arguement is why you're buying one.

I echo several posters already. If your 4.0 blew up at 140K, you did something wrong. If you can't figure out what that is, you shouldn't be trying to figure out how to make a 4.7 run well. I've been lurking around the NAXJA stroker discussions for a long time, there is nothing "drop in" about a stroker.
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ATK said 3 days, but only time will tell.

What do you think I did to my motor to have the rod go? I dont drive it hard, change the oil less than 3k, dont tow, and keep it well trained. So?

So if its not possible to do a "plug and play" 4.7, then please tell me what I need to do to get it drive.
Thanks, I really appreciate all the input!
 
bmyohn said:
I have the Golen 4.6L Stroker in my Jeep. I absolutely love it. It has been extremely reliable, very strong, and sounds great. I would seriously consider Golen motors. Chad is extremely knowledgeable, offers great technical support and answers the phone in person every single time. To be honest, the next jeep I get, will get a stroker put in before any other mods are made to the vehicle. The XJ with a stroker is a ton of fun to drive, and I wouldn't hesitate to put another Golen Stroker in my jeep.
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I'll second that and If this fool can put the engine in himself, anyone can! :D Like you'll ever get another Jeep. Next step for you is Buggy!
 
Red97XJ said:
#2. I have no clue what makes a good 4.7 a good one or a bad one, nor do I have the time to learn....
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Yeah you probably oughta research that a little bit. You don't want to be like Talyn and end up with a POS Titan Stroker then have to build one after that Titan goes boom!
 
FlexdXJ said:
Yeah you probably oughta research that a little bit. You don't want to be like Talyn and end up with a POS Titan Stroker then have to build one after that Titan goes boom!
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Thats what i am doing, is checking things out. Also why I am willing to spend a little more and go with ATK. I am saying I have time to ask stroker or not, I dont have weeks or months to learn which way of 1,000 I want to build my stroker. I see it like ATK and mopar have it pretty figured out.
 
I agree with RedHeep about the time it will take to order a motor. You can have one built at the shop within a week. It took my machinist 2 days to get the work done.

I would really look into having a local shop do the work. Building a stroker isn't rocket science and there is plenty of information/parts lists out on the web. It doesn't take weeks or months to find out either... it took me about 30min. searching on Dino's site.

Anyhow I'm not sure what you are asking in this thread. A 4.0 is a 4.0, you drove one for 140K miles and you know what it's like. A stroker is the same engine with a 258 crank/rods in it. It's larger in displacement with more hp/tq, and has different air/fuel requirements than a 4.0 does. That's why you need larger injectors and some other upgrades to refine the tuning.

If you are asking if a stroker is plug and play, it is not. If you are asking how to get by on a stroker with minimal mods, a stroker probably isn't for you. If you are telling us your Jeep has a mass air flow sensor, you probably shouldn't install the motor yourself lol :jester:

You are going to pay much more for a remanufactured motor. Trying to get the job done as fast as possible isn't going to help either. You'll run into at least a few things that need to be adjusted before she fires. I'm not trying to be a jerk bud just trying to help out. Don't let time dictate your decision, let research and cost dictate it.
 
wy_jeep said:
I agree with RedHeep about the time it will take to order a motor. You can have one built at the shop within a week. It took my machinist 2 days to get the work done.

I would really look into having a local shop do the work. Building a stroker isn't rocket science and there is plenty of information/parts lists out on the web. It doesn't take weeks or months to find out either... it took me about 30min. searching on Dino's site.

Anyhow I'm not sure what you are asking in this thread. A 4.0 is a 4.0, you drove one for 140K miles and you know what it's like. A stroker is the same engine with a 258 crank/rods in it. It's larger in displacement with more hp/tq, and has different air/fuel requirements than a 4.0 does. That's why you need larger injectors and some other upgrades to refine the tuning.

If you are asking if a stroker is plug and play, it is not. If you are asking how to get by on a stroker with minimal mods, a stroker probably isn't for you. If you are telling us your Jeep has a mass air flow sensor, you probably shouldn't install the motor yourself lol :jester:

You are going to pay much more for a remanufactured motor. Trying to get the job done as fast as possible isn't going to help either. You'll run into at least a few things that need to be adjusted before she fires. I'm not trying to be a jerk bud just trying to help out. Don't let time dictate your decision, let research and cost dictate it.
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Ok, some of you guys act like I am a fool, for what, a typo? Oops, my bad. I am just trying to get to the point and get the facts laid out as quickly as possible for some to help, and of course some just to see themselves type. I like to do things right the first time. So I figured why put a 4.0 that cost $1,619 dollars, when I can spend $1,125 more to get better. Kind of like when a d35 blows, you don't fix it, you upgrade to a 44, 8.8, or whatever. I have built several mustangs, a FF Cobra Replica that I sold for $32,000, and this jeep from bone stock to its current state. I see this bad engine as a great time to upgrade. If I can't spare an extra $1,125 now, why would I ever spend $2,744 to pull out a good running 4.0 to get a 4.7?

Anyway, enough rants and justifying my thoughts.

I keep hearing how I don't know enough, and I should research, and a stroker isn't just plug and play. Well, can someone be a little more specific? I know there are a lot of factors, but lets just assume the basics: assume I get an ATK 4.7. Assume its going in an automatic 97 4 door. What do I NEED to get this beast fired up and breathing properly. And what are OPTIONS that I MAY want to consider for more power gains.

Thanks to all who have input.
 
I gotta be honest, I consider a Stroker more or less plug and play. I have one that I built myself.

I put a newer style intake on it, and I am running larger injectors. I am also running a Holly fuel pump that was meant for a 4.6 mustang. However, I replaced that before the stroker, because my old one shit the bed and it was a cheap upgrade.

I was running a map adjuster, but pulled it off. I will probably be buying one of stroketech's mini PCB style boards once I pony up for that wideband. But for now the stock computer in My 1991 seems to be doing just fine. I did go through a few different eat ranges of plug till I got it just right.

I am running a 60mm throttle body that I lathed and honed myself. And My exhaust is reasonably free flowing.

I would venture to say that if you buy the ATK stroker, and change to larger injectors, on a new manifold with a bored TB if possible, you will be just fine.
 
If you look at your throttle body, in the boom it gets narrower. Just stick it on a lathe and take out the bottom section and polish it till it is a uniform diameter. Just do not take any out of the top or the butterfly valve will not fit correctly and at the least it will whistle. I used a few different abrasive pads to polish mine while I was at it.

You can also buy them from a few vendors on here and ebay. And I ran my stroker for the first couple of months with a stock TB.
 
You mentioned you have a 2.5" catback right? I'd upgrade the downpipe. I have a 2.5" dynomax catback with a custom 2.25" downpipe and the APN header. If you open up the downpipe the stroker will breath a lot easier.

The 99 and later intake manifold is debatable, but I installed it on my stroker. I absolultey recommend boring the throttle body like the others recommend. At the very least remove the taper at the bottom so it's 60mm all the way through. You can buy them bored already for around $100.

You don't really NEED anything... it will run once it's dropped in. I say it's not plug and play because I think it's necessary to upgrade the intake/exhaust as mentioned above.

You will love the stroker if that's what you get! Feel free to PM if you have any specific questions. Good luck!
 
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