Optima Batteries

I don't want to come off as an optima fanboy because really I am not at all. However, if the shop did that I don't see how it has anything to do with the battery manufacturer. If the shop charged you for unauthorized service then you had every right to decline to pay. I still say, no matter what battery or warranty that you went into that shop with they were going to squeeze those same fees from you.

If it were me, I would never have them touch my vehicle at all. I would remove the battery and take them the battery to replace, if they declined my warranty I would call the manufacturer.

The shop saw you coming, not optima.


I agree 100%. The shop saw you coming and thought it a good idea; "Let's make some money off that sucker,...we'll sell him services he dosen''t need". Those parts are parts you want not need. I have owned vehicles for almost 40 years. None of then had pads and what els they charged for.

Now, you may have a legitimate case to discuss with OptimaJim although as mentioned above it may be impossible to know why the batteries failed without looking at the failed battery and the XJ electronics. I have had the yellow top battery below 11 volts many times and at 9 volts once. I had to jump start it once and it is still start the XJ after 4 years in service with the last 2 years just sitting there maintaining the electronics.

Try to explain to OptmaJim as much as you can about the days leading up to the failure,...maybe he could give you some advice from a non-hands on/long distance diagnostic.
 
I agree 100%. The shop saw you coming and thought it a good idea; "Let's make some money off that sucker,...we'll sell him services he dosen''t need". Those parts are parts you want not need. I have owned vehicles for almost 40 years. None of then had pads and what els they charged for.

The anti-corrosion pads and spray aren't a bad idea but paying someone to do it is I think. I bought a set from walmart that comes with 2 pads and enough spray to do 20 batteries for like 5 bucks.
 
I don't want to come off as an optima fanboy because really I am not at all. However, if the shop did that I don't see how it has anything to do with the battery manufacturer. If the shop charged you for unauthorized service then you had every right to decline to pay. I still say, no matter what battery or warranty that you went into that shop with they were going to squeeze those same fees from you.

If it were me, I would never have them touch my vehicle at all. I would remove the battery and take them the battery to replace, if they declined my warranty I would call the manufacturer.

The shop saw you coming, not optima.

The sad part of it is that I've been a loyal customer of theirs for six years. And this is a fair way to treat me?
 
Milford Cubicle II, I would take your point about cold cranking amps a step further and say that CCA should only be of concern to folks who live somewhere cold. I don't know what kind of engines people are putting in their vehicles, but as long as the cranking amps of a battery meet or exceed the requirements of the engine, that's all they really need for cranking power. You are also correct that there is a trade-off to some degree on cranking amps and reserve capacity in a given battery, but physically larger batteries will generally be able to offer more of both.

Andy, I'm sorry to hear about the problems you had with your battery and surprised to hear Las Vegas only has one 4x4 shop! We heard a great deal of feedback on our warranties over the years and as a result, as of February 2009, all RedTops and YellowTops come with a straight, three-year free replacement warranty, with no pro-ration. I wish your situation had happened just a week later, as I will be in Las Vegas on Friday and would've been happy to assist you with swapping out your battery and checking your electrical system.

I will send you a PM, as there shouldn't be a need to preventatively-treat our batteries for corrosion or use pads around the terminals. That is a good idea for a flooded, lead-acid battery, but simply not necessary for AGM batteries. Did they give you a printout of the results of their electrical system test? If so, please send that .pdf to me as well.


Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries
 
Just wanted to update my redtop is going strong and actually impressed me today. My lexus had a dead battery, no lights and barely enough juice to work the power door locks. I tried to jump it yesterday using my supra with a walmart special battery, nothing. That battery cranks the supra no problem. Today, I hooked the jeep up and the lexus cranked hard the first try. I am sure there are a ton of variables involved but I think the battery may have been the deciding factor.
 
It's funny how this subject keeps recycling. I see it oon a lot of forums, and the timing seems to clump.

I did some research on Optimas last night (I was bored), and found:

Optima is owned by Johnson Controls, the same company that makes Interstate, Duralast, Die Hard, Costco's Kirkland brand batteries, and a bunch of other branded batteries, plus they are the OEM manufacturer for batteries for Ford, Chrysler, Toyota, Nissan, and Izuzu. They literally own the North American battery market. The odds are that no matter what brand of battery you buy, you are getting it from Johnson Controls.

That said, I had no problem buying a Yellow Top for my XJ last week when my battery died.
 
Monroe makes more shocks than Bilstein.. should we stop buying Bilstein shocks to get inferior Monroe shocks? ;)

It doesnt matter who makes optimas, the quality that was once there was gone.

For about the same price you can get a sears branded Odyssey which generally has more power and lasts longer.
 
I've had several Optima batteries. The first one went hard for almost 5 years! The second one I killed from charging incorrectly! The third one I fear has a problem, so I'm taking it to the dealer tonight, and is less then a year old. The fourth one is in my Stang, with no problems. I feel these Batteries will perform if used in a perfect charging/electrical system. However, the Red-Top can be a PITA to charge, and even though I own a full size Snap-On Charger, found it necessary to purchase a CETEK 3300 just for the AGMs. I'll keep you posted on how my visit goes with the Battery Guru....
 
the only problem with optimas that i have seen, is that where i work, the general manager does not want to honor te warranty on them, but that can be fixed by going to another store
 
Monroe makes more shocks than Bilstein.. should we stop buying Bilstein shocks to get inferior Monroe shocks? ;)

It doesnt matter who makes optimas, the quality that was once there was gone.

For about the same price you can get a sears branded Odyssey which generally has more power and lasts longer.

Actually, Monroe is made by Tenneco, who also makes Rancho. Bilstein makes shocks for others, including Rubicon Express.
 
the issue with the optima battery is that its a Optima...

Even the smallest of draw over a short period has caused our xj Not to start. it cranks fine and leads you to believe something (CPS, Coil, Ect) is bad. When in fact the cranking draw and a slight discharged battery, doesnt allow enough voltage to the ECU for it to function and work.

Or you get something like a parker pumper, race radio, trans fan, rad fan, a few lights, and kill the Ign and leave the fans and pumper on for the driver to breath or something along this scenario, and you get the above.

If I would have known this would have been a reaccuring issue (on my 3rd red top in about 50 engine starts, one race, and a few prerun days) I would have never had welded in the optima ruffstuff mount! I would run a gold autozone ANY DAY OF THE WEEK before a red top!
 
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I'm going to keep buying red-capped Autozone batteries until I get a bad one. :anon:

Just checked mine out of curiosity. It will be 7 in June.
 
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I am an XJ owner and therefore required to be cheap.

When the red top wouldn't charge after my deployment (my own fault because I forgot to put the tender on it) I replaced it with whatever was at the parts store.

Why buy a 200 dollar battery every 4 years when you can buy an 80 dollar battery every 4 years?
 
I am an XJ owner and therefore required to be cheap.

When the red top wouldn't charge after my deployment (my own fault because I forgot to put the tender on it) I replaced it with whatever was at the parts store.

Why buy a 200 dollar battery every 4 years when you can buy an 80 dollar battery every 4 years?

a man must know his limitations!:paperwork If you know you're gonna kill it anyway, no real need to buy better than you need.
 
I am an XJ owner and therefore required to be cheap.

When the red top wouldn't charge after my deployment (my own fault because I forgot to put the tender on it) I replaced it with whatever was at the parts store.

Why buy a 200 dollar battery every 4 years when you can buy an 80 dollar battery every 4 years?

a man must know his limitations!:paperwork If you know you're gonna kill it anyway, no real need to buy better than you need.
Or get a battery from Costco and exchange it when it stops working no questions asked.
 
Just for fun, I take some of the Optima batteries we get returned, put them on a proper charger/tester and let it run. Amazing how many "bad" batteries are actually fine. Not saying we do not get actual "bad" Optimas coming back, but a fair amount are still "good".
 
I've had several Optima batteries. The first one went hard for almost 5 years! The second one I killed from charging incorrectly! The third one I fear has a problem, so I'm taking it to the dealer tonight, and is less then a year old. The fourth one is in my Stang, with no problems. I feel these Batteries will perform if used in a perfect charging/electrical system. However, the Red-Top can be a PITA to charge, and even though I own a full size Snap-On Charger, found it necessary to purchase a CETEK 3300 just for the AGMs. I'll keep you posted on how my visit goes with the Battery Guru....


Update.... I took the #3 battery in, and it tested out at 12.6 volts, and 900+ CA. He told me it was just fine, and that there's nothing wrong with it...... But shouldn't it have over 13V, after a full charge? Which brings me to another interesting fact about these AGMs.......
In a normal Lead/Acid Flooded Cell battery, you have appx. 2V per cell, and can check for a shorted cell, by looking for 2V voltage drops..... However this will not work on an AGM, because each one of their cells have appx. 12V when charged. so if you put a meter on the battery, you may see 11.9 V and you could still have a shorted cell....
 
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