Operation Overcompensation

Re: SUB OPERATION: RUBICON RUSH

Lincoln said:
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This must be your dads SWB?
 
Re: SUB OPERATION: RUBICON RUSH

Lincoln said:
SWB? That's my junk.

The resevoir looks really high. Like they are in a SWB. Maybe just the camera angle.
 
Re: SUB OPERATION: RUBICON RUSH

cracker said:
The resevoir looks really high. Like they are in a SWB. Maybe just the camera angle.

The outlet on the res is just a bit higher than the top of the intake manifold. It's mounted just in from of the throttle body and I cut the insulation on the hood and gave it about 1/8".

Still not as high as they recommend but much higher than Hinkley's.
 
Tackled the XJ again today. It is starting to become crunch time. My laundry list of sh!t is piling up so I have to bust my ass.

Since I went to Currie on Friday and got my axle shaft sear replaced, I figured I'd get it done first. Currie doesn't replace the seal but the whole damn bearing as well. :( And Fishboy, it took me 20 minutes :D
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Frankie hung with my the whole time I was out there.
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Yanked the power steering pump out. I cannot beleive how much easier it is when that f#$%ing air box is not in the way!
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And I worked on the PSC pump install. Look at the custom bent high pressure line. Looks like sh!t and with my luck it'll probably leak. I will call PSC tomorrow and figure out the optimum solution.
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Hooked up the lines. I have the large diameter line coming out the back of the resevoir. Ended up cleanest that way ;)
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And the completed install except for the fluid and new serpentine belt.
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The list for Rubicon is still long. I need to have it all done by Friday since I leave for NorCal on Sunday morning and have to pack on Saturday.

Things to do:

1. Rebuild LCA RE joints (killed them in 6 runs ;) )
2. Measure out and install new serpentine belt
3. Fluids. Fill powersteering and rear axle and top off the front diff and TC and check oil, tranny, and washer fluid.
4. Create brackets to mount new air compressor.
5. Wire relay and switches for air compressor
6. Grease CTMs
7. Wash jeep and get BOTW dust out of it
8. Clean air filter (from BOTW dust fest)
9. Install pitman arm
10. Pick up from Deaver and install leaf springs (and mount tires of course)
11. Install rear drive line.

I should get some of it done tomorrow and Tuesday. Hopefully it'll be drivable for the M&G on Wed and maybe I could get some help with the aircompressor (brackets and wiring). :angel:
 
Re: SUB OPERATION: RUBICON RUSH

Lincoln said:
Looks like the direct fit pump in the pic, whichever one that is. The P style looks much different on the back side even without the can. Though it does look like it uses the same offset bracket that the P pump needs.

From what I hear, the N pump is a direct fit of the TC pump, with the volume of the P pump. Hopefully the best of both worlds.

Paul
 
Just got off the phone with Kelvin and it is the 'N' pump as Paul thought.

I have a new power steering hose coming from PSC to solve my hose issue. I also found out the serpentine belt needs to be 2740mm long (107.8").
 
Got the sepetine belt all installed and the fluid in the system. Started it all up and it seems to turn fine. I went from lock to lock a bunch of times with the steering wheel (no drag link connected) and it feels fine.

I do need a 107" belt in stead of the 108" belt or even a fraction shorter than 107". Before I search, anyone got any ideas?

-Avery
 
cracker said:
Got the sepetine belt all installed and the fluid in the system. Started it all up and it seems to turn fine. I went from lock to lock a bunch of times with the steering wheel (no drag link connected) and it feels fine.

I do need a 107" belt in stead of the 108" belt or even a fraction shorter than 107". Before I search, anyone got any ideas?

-Avery

Hard to tell how far offset your bracket is. Mine was offset 4.5" from stock so I just went with one 9" longer. Don't remember what that was.

I don't know of anyone else running the N pump so go measure it you laxy a$$. :D
 
Lincoln said:
Hard to tell how far offset your bracket is. Mine was offset 4.5" from stock so I just went with one 9" longer. Don't remember what that was.

I don't know of anyone else running the N pump so go measure it you laxy a$$. :D

I am going to pick up a 107.3" serp on the way home. 108" works but is almost, or maybe already, maxed out on the adjustment range.

Speaking of lazy a$$es, you didn't call. What about me? What about my needs?
 
cracker said:
I am going to pick up a 107.3" serp on the way home. 108" works but is almost, or maybe already, maxed out on the adjustment range.

Speaking of lazy a$$es, you didn't call. What about me? What about my needs?

I told you to call me because I would forget, just like I did.

I'll be home tonight, and maybe Thursday or Friday. Have to finish breaking in a couple of plinking guns those nights and killing things all weekend.
 
Well, the only real damage sustained from the Rubicon was my diff cover and guard. After exactly one year, my diff guard got flattened and destroyed. I think it was all the scenery as I was driving on the Rubicon. It was too nice and I didn't pay attention to the trail mutch. My wife commented on my driving. She said she couldn't tell if I was brave or just stupid on the obstacals but when I was just driving along I drove like shit. As usual, my wife is right.



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Ripped the bolts through the plate and mangled it pretty bad.

Even dented in the diff cover so that the ring gear was slightly hitting the the cover.
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(crappy pic, sorry)

So I did some minor research and the goar was to find something Avery proof. My wife recommended a padded cell but as I continued to search, I ended up with two finalists. The Blue Torch Fab cover and the Dynatrac cover. I actually called Blue Torch and they promised me I couldn't destroy their cover and if I did, they would give me a new one. I tried to explain to them I drive like shit but they were not concerned so I settled on one of theirs. I have always though Dynatrac stuff was over priced plus I like the sponsorship Blue Torch does for Pirate so I went with supporting them.

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I stiff think I'll fawk it up but it should be here on Thursday. Time will tell.
 
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Hey Avery.

On your power steering hoses?? Your Suction hose from the PSC resivoir to the Pump?? What size and material is it made from.. Here is why.. On a high pressure pump it is known that using a soft rubber hose is possible to colapse the hose and cause problems for the pump. I am not sure what set up PSC sent you, but I would suggest getting some kind of reinforced hose for the suction side... I went with a good steel braided -10 AN hose for my set up, Wont colapse even if I try... Just a thought...
 
Clean-RC said:
Hey Avery.

On your power steering hoses?? Your Suction hose from the PSC resivoir to the Pump?? What size and material is it made from.. Here is why.. On a high pressure pump it is known that using a soft rubber hose is possible to colapse the hose and cause problems for the pump. I am not sure what set up PSC sent you, but I would suggest getting some kind of reinforced hose for the suction side... I went with a good steel braided -10 AN hose for my set up, Wont colapse even if I try... Just a thought...

Good thought Scott. The hose is pretty large in diameter. Like 1" or something and it does not seem to be anything special (unfortunately). I will go out and check it later and see what it says on it and if I can crush it easily by hand. I spoke to them the other day (and I know this sounds really odd), they are sending me a fitting that will make the diameter of one of the hoses (high pressure I thought) smaller. They said (PSC) that it will slow down the flow of fluid and decrease the heat. This still catches me funny but they do do this all day long. IF it is a colapsing hose causing restriction than this would help.

If I put a smaller fitting thus restricting the flow, would that not cause the pump to work harder and creat more heat? Not according to PSC.

They also asked me to see if the fluid in the reservoir was 'frothy' from air getting sucked into the line. They said the pump is so powerful, that it'll actually suck air into the line through the fittings even without any visible leaks at the hose junctions. I did check that and I only had non-frothy, burnt fluid in my reservoir :cry:

The other suggestions (from PSC) was to use a larger power steering cooler and use a hydraulic ram. Obviously the benefit of a larger cooler should help prevent the fluid from boiling out. I will try to re-arrange my current tranny cooler to make room for a larger power steering cooler. The thought on the hydraulic ram was to get more fluid into the system and also potentially increase the surface area that the fluid traveled to keep it a shade cooler.

I will call them tomorrow. I MUST have closure on this within the next week before my next run :repair:
 
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This seems to be a reasonable way for me to chop my junk before I turn into a Fishboy or a Dave.
 
cracker said:


This seems to be a reasonable way for me to chop my junk before I turn into a Fishboy or a Dave.

Yes, or the Amoeba circa Rubicon '04.
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Basically the same though........................

-Mike
 
I have the BTF on the back diff of mine. I don't drive like an "idgit" so I'll probably never really hurt it.

Your only hope of hurting it is probably a drop onto it and shear all the bolts holding it to the diff. If you hurt it with a frontal attack - you've probably broken something else even more important...

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bburge
 
bburge said:
I have the BTF on the back diff of mine. I don't drive like an "idgit" so I'll probably never really hurt it.

I don't even have a diff guard on the rear of mine.

bburge said:
Your only hope of hurting it is probably a drop onto it and shear all the bolts holding it to the diff. If you hurt it with a frontal attack - you've probably broken something else even more important...
bburge

Nothing 'more important' is in front of it since I run high steer.

-Avery
 
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