Okay, now im angry, where else could this banging be?

Well, the clunk is still there, the IRO long arm caster adjuster is no longer mangled, and even when i disco the swaybar the clunk(s) are still there. I also tightened my LCA bolts, which were loose.

Im gonna change my trans mount, but idk what else it could be...
 
Read the whole thread and only heard the track bar brought up once...

I had a very similar issue and it turned out that I hadn't fully tightened my axle-side track bar bolt fully after installing my lift. Take a look at the front side of the axle-side track bar bolt and see if you see any fresh metal around it... If so, you've got play in it and are likely reaming out the holes. I reamed mine slightly and now have to torque the **** out of it to prevent the issue.

Definitely worth checking considering stress is put on that bolt whenever there is *ANY* compression of the front suspension.
 
While you are under there, make sure the exhaust isn't hitting the crossmember.
 
Two things. I have the exact same IRO setup on my 98 XJ. I have been running it since 2008. The castor brkt shown in post #34 did the same exact thing on mine and it is caused by the bottom of the bracket contacting the differential. Replace it, it is not expensive, if it opens up any more and fails while driving you will probably break at the very least the front driveshaft when the diff moves up or down. When you get you new bracket, take a grinder and clearance the bottom so it no longer makes contact. One problem solved. The second thing I,ve noticed is the track bar bracket is often loose and that is even with using red loctite and gunning it down. How you find out about it is have a friend turn the steering back and forth while you watch to check for any movement. The only other problem I have had is with IRO rear driveshaft, the blue silicone gummed up the splines making it very stiff and requiring disassembly, I just bought a new one and now have a repaired spare.
 
katuah said:
This is kinda out there, but I chased a banging noise for months, thinking it was in my suspension or axle area (I was convinced at one point it was either a bad shock/mount or my muffler about to fall off) - then I got new motor mounts and voila, no more bang. Turns out it was the engine moving & causing various things to bang together. Might not be it for you, but I didn't see that on your list of things checked/replaced so thought I'd mention it.
Click to expand...

How long did it take you to install new motor mounts?
 
Try using steel bushings in the lower control arms that have no seam. The bushings included with many control arms have a seam that allows them to crush and you can never get them tight enough not to move.
 
jeeperjohn said:
Try using steel bushings in the lower control arms that have no seam. The bushings included with many control arms have a seam that allows them to crush and you can never get them tight enough not to move.
Click to expand...

Hmm, never thought about that, Ill have to keep my eyes open for some seamless lower control arm sleeve bushings.

Edit: Or i could just run some sort of flex joint at the axle end.
 
Well the clunk is almost completely gone!

The main thing was that where the control arm bolts to the x-member, wasnt tight enough. They were tight, very tight, but apperently not tight enough. There was a small gap between the flex joint and where it goes in the cross member.

Also, i had welded some flat 1/4 plate onto my LCA brackets for control arm skids, and the gap between the LCA bushing and the skid was much too small, and the lca and the bracket would bang against each other going over pot holes.

Thanks for all the help everyone gave me in this thread.

Naxja, is by far the best forum i have ever been on. I asked the same question on other forums ( not going to name them ), and i didnt get nearly as much help.
 
The trans mount will have some...about like a rubber bushing...not much though, mainly to take vibration away and isolate it from the body...it shouldn't move much....I had the same type of problem...i completely redid my front axle and suspension and overlooked the trans mount because it was "new"...it mad me mad that it was still banging..it was loud too like something was going to come through the floor...so i went under to investigate and bumped my shoulder into the trans on accident hard....well i seen the whole trans move and come down..i thought wtf it shouldn't do that...i looked at the mount and the metal part on top of the mount would come down and hit the crossmember....what happened was i built the jeep last july...it got pretty much all new parts....including trans mount from autozone....well i took the mount in thinking it was worn out because i could squish it with my thumb and index finger to the point where the metal would contact the crossmember....autozone looked it up and couldn't find my warranty anywhere for the xj....they did for a wrangler...somehow the dumb*ss at the counter entered 2000 wrangler instead of 2000 cherokee...the wrangler mount bolted in easier than the cherokee one did...no lie....the cherokee one was about 3/4" of an inch taller, it looked identical but had a lot mor rubber making it stiffer....its funny how the right part fixed the problem!...
 
twodoorXJ, I would like to hear more about the caster adjustment bracket! Did you engage IRO about this thing deforming, and if so what feedback did they provide? I have this kit waiting to be installed and all the smart people saying this design is scary are going to point to this thread.

redriverhugh suggested clearancing the bracket.. Is this actually the cause?

Would love to have an open dialog about how to resolve any problems with this kit before I install it.
 
Also, regarding the clearancing. From what I can see redriverhugh appears to have the 1st Gen kit. My bracket (and the one in the picture) appears to have some sort of clearancing already because it is flattened out on the bottom of one side. Wondering if IRO corrected this issue and the slot is simply widening because the bracket material is too weak?
 
twodoorXJ said:
How long did it take you to install new motor mounts?
Click to expand...

twodoor didn't mean to ignore you, just not been on here much the last few weeks. i cant really tell you how long it took b/c we put them in while we were installing the lift & doing some other stuff, and didn't do it all at once. however, i can tell you it was a real pain getting the center bolts/holes to line up. if they tell you it will take 2 hours, plan for 4, and half of that spent torquing the block around. it was quite possibly the best single upgrade i've ever made though, and easily worth the time & effort. Brown Dog is the place to go with.
 
WildcatRider said:
twodoorXJ, I would like to hear more about the caster adjustment bracket! Did you engage IRO about this thing deforming, and if so what feedback did they provide? I have this kit waiting to be installed and all the smart people saying this design is scary are going to point to this thread.

redriverhugh suggested clearancing the bracket.. Is this actually the cause?

Would love to have an open dialog about how to resolve any problems with this kit before I install it.
Click to expand...

I contacted them via email, and one person told me to run it as is, one person told me to bang it into shape then run it, and one person told me i could buy a new one for $14.

"All products manufactured by Iron Rock Off Road, Inc. are guaranteed to be free of defects in materials and workmanship for as long as you own the product. If your product ever fails due to a defect in materials or workmanship we will replace it free of charge, excluding shipping and handling. This warranty does not apply to corrosion, finish, or normal wear. This warranty is non-transferable. Misuse, modification in any way, or any use other than the product’s designed purpose will void the warranty. Iron Rock Off Road control arms come with a lifetime unbendable guarantee. If you bend or break a control arm on or off road, we will replace it. Products not manufactured by Iron Rock Off Road, Inc. will be subject to the product manufacturer's warranty. Claims must be made to that manufacturer. Custom parts are non-returnable, non-refundable. "

-iron rock offroad.

I was personally hoping theyd send me a new one for free, but i guess not.

I dont exactly know where this bracket bending would fall under their "warranty"
 
I'm not sure why people bolt the engine mounts down and then try to get the cross bolt through them, that is the hard way for sure. Easy way is to jack the motor up, remove bolts and nuts holding motor mount to frame bracket, remove cross bolt, remove old mount, put new mount in, reinstall cross bolt loosely, lower motor slowly while guiding stud into frame bracket, then line the bolt up and get everything threaded together. Lower motor the rest of the way and tighten everything, then do the other side. I was able to do both motor mounts in 30 minutes this way.
 
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