Oil Change What to use?

Well i have got quaker state 10w30 in right now with a fram filter. I have started to get a little knock in the motor. What oil and filter would you guys recommend me get that would help my old motor out. I believe the motor i put in it has around 140,000 miles. Would this take the little knock i have away?
 
You should use the same filter the old mustang 5.0's use. Just look it up at your auto parts store. It fits perfectly and is like probably 1.5 times as big as a regular jeep filter. I just did it on my jeep and my brothers jeep.
 
Jeepguy91 said:
Well i have got quaker state 10w30 in right now with a fram filter. I have started to get a little knock in the motor. What oil and filter would you guys recommend me get that would help my old motor out. I believe the motor i put in it has around 140,000 miles. Would this take the little knock i have away?

Ditching the Fram woukd ve a HUGE improvement on its own. Napa Gold, Mobil, Purolator One,Wix, Baldwin all make good mid-price range filters.

Q-state and Penzoil are the same heavy parrafinic base stocks. They are going to really gunk up that older motor. Start by moving towards a mid-price range quality product like Vavoline Max life or Hi-Mileage for an oil change or two. Then start looking towards synth-blends or full synth oil.

The first few oil changes after getting the Q-state out of your motor are going to look BAD... Very black and lots of crap in it. That's the other oils starting to remove the junk left behind by the Q-state.
 
sheeks175 said:
You should use the same filter the old mustang 5.0's use. Just look it up at your auto parts store. It fits perfectly and is like probably 1.5 times as big as a regular jeep filter. I just did it on my jeep and my brothers jeep.
Its a FL-1A Motorcraft, Great filter. The best FL-1AHP
 
You can also pour some sea foam in the crankcase drive for 50-75 miles then do an oil change. I've heard that any oil with royal purple additive is the best...NO LUCAS!!
 
89xj said:
show the proof in that statement?

Cut one open. Fram uses a cardboard end cap on the filter element, not a full steel cap crimped on. If the adhesive loses grip, or is not bonded correctly, the filter internally bypasses and oil pressure goes to zero. On a 300 inch Ford six, it sounds like a major squeaking noise just before the rod seizes, launching small parts out the side of the block onto passing freeway traffic.

The new Fram filter on the replacement motor started doing the same, no oil pressure, and then suddenly, no problem. I thought it was the original pump, but no, the guys at the parts house reassured me I didn't really need to check the pressure, just screw on "any other major filter, including AC/Delco, anything but Fram." So I did. Problem solved - other than the loss of the first engine and $1600 on the rebuilt engine.

I've never heard of this cropping up on Chevy or Jeep, but the cost of a new motor far outweighs a dollar saved on a filter over the lifetime of a car. I understand lots of off branded filters are now chinese Purolators - and I would trust them more - but Wix will do for now.
 
So i finally got around yesterday to changing my oil...i went with Mobil 1 high milage 10/30 and Mobil 1 filter. I noticed that my oil pressure seemed a little lower...could it be the new filter??? it use to be right over 40 at right over 2000 rpm's now it is dead on 40 i know its not that much of a difference but just wanted to check.
 
I switched over to Rotella around 1k miles ago. I used 4 quarts of 0w40 synthetic Rotella SB and 2 quarts of 15w40 dino.
So far so good, I'm getting better hot oil pressure (which was always a little lower than I would have liked, but still always within factory specs). So far I havn't noticed any leaks from the synthetic, although I had done the valve cover gasket and RMS over hte past year or so.
I think I have found my winning oil combination, my 4.0 seems to like this stuff quite a bit, and the lower weight synthetic is perfect for the winter. I'm a little leery of running the 0w40 even in the winter, so I'll keep it at around the same mix as I mentioned before.
 
XJ Stryker said:
I found this with just a lil google search of fram filters

http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/oilfilters/reference.html#fram

Looks like they are built really cheap. Pennzoil was just as bad

Looked like there was one mediocre fram filter and that was the

Tough Guard. it apparently filtered a lil better

:geek:

i admit that fram are not that great of a filter, but i have never heard of it causing blown engines. ive seen low oil pressure with frams, but not of blown engines.
 
vajeeper said:
1997 XJ Country 161K

What is the best oil and filter to use?

clean oil and new filter.

not trying to sound like an ass. but that's the simple version. i once was in the whole "ooh i'm running this oil and this filter". then i moved on to other things. an old wise mechanic that i learned alot from once told me: "clean oil is good oil".


personally i run 5-30 year round, and i do use amsoil, but only because in my opinion it holds up better to my ridiculous poundings that i give my jeep. in my 84 grand wagoneer daily driver i use 5-30 whatever i have laying around.
 
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FordGuy said:
Anyone interested in a great filter that a Lot of Engine Builders use its a Motorcraft/Ford racing Filter part# FL-1AHP, 500# burst can, Syn-poly Media Silicone Drain back valve and I think 400sq inch of media 15-20 micron. Retail is around $12.00

wix: 51515R
carquest/wix: 185515
 
I'm getting tired of people saying Lucas sucks without having any proof. But, the low price orange fram filters are junk, but I have used the fram tough gaurd for years, with no major bearing wear. So the statement "all fram is junk", is rather false in my case. I use some MMO or Sea Foam for 100 miles before I change the oil, it makes it flow out better and helps get more oil out. Mobil 1 High Millage with a M1 filter or valvoline max life with a Fram TG is what I use, depending on the vehicle.
I wish people would stop acting like "oil change sheep" when they eat up things like "lucas sucks".
 
BillBraski said:
I'm getting tired of people saying Lucas sucks without having any proof. But, the low price orange fram filters are junk, but I have used the fram tough gaurd for years, with no major bearing wear. So the statement "all fram is junk", is rather false in my case. I use some MMO or Sea Foam for 100 miles before I change the oil, it makes it flow out better and helps get more oil out. Mobil 1 High Millage with a M1 filter or valvoline max life with a Fram TG is what I use, depending on the vehicle.
I wish people would stop acting like "oil change sheep" when they eat up things like "lucas sucks".


I think a MAJOR problem with people's perception of Lucas addatives is that they don't realize what Lucas offers. Its primary function is that of a viscosity improver and stabilizer. If people would stop trying to act like it is some second coming and use it for its intended use they would be MUCH happier with its performance. Just like the people that get ticked when Sea Foam or MMO doesn't do what they want it to do... They are both heavy distillates, that primarily with dissolve crud and build up...
 
Straight from my letter to shell, we want high zddp levels, price per litre, Rotella hands down, IMHO.


Dear customer:

Rotella T CJ-4 15W40 has a Zinc level of 1200ppm

Rotella T Synthetic 5W40 has a Zinc level of 1600ppm



Be aware that even though the antiwear level is high for Rotella oils, diesel engine oil formulations are different than engine oils for gasoline performance engines.



Hope this help.

Regards,

Xavier Henry
Technical Help Desk
Fuels & Lubricants
Shell Canada Products
 
Isn't it a bad idea to use 15W40 when its cold out? They might have a 5w40 rotella at auto zone....I'll have to check tomorrow. And as far as fram filters go, I didnt exactly believe all the negative hype at first. But sometimes my jeep makes odd noises along the lines of being no oil on cold startups. Dunno, free filter isn't always a good idea. Going back to good ole bosch ones. :banghead:
 
BBeach said:
Isn't it a bad idea to use 15W40 when its cold out? They might have a 5w40 rotella at auto zone....I'll have to check tomorrow. And as far as fram filters go, I didnt exactly believe all the negative hype at first. But sometimes my jeep makes odd noises along the lines of being no oil on cold startups. Dunno, free filter isn't always a good idea. Going back to good ole bosch ones. :banghead:
I depends on how cold. below freezing, its not such a good idea to use 15w-50 for a daily driver becuase of the cold starts (Unless a engine heater is used) wearing down the battery. Yeah, the cheapest Fram filters are junk, but I have used Fram tough gaurd for many years with no ill effects, meaning better than normal bearing wear.
Just so you know, Bosch filters are not much better (if at all) and suffer the same problems. Bosch, STP, Pennzoil, Q-State and Fram are pretty much all the same. I am currently at 4,000 miles with Mobil 1 High Millage 10w-40 and a Mobil 1 filter, it is doing its job better than I thought it would in this motor. I am going to change it at 6,000 miles becuase I've personally seen Mobil 1 go for 8,000 miles in a good condition engine.
I also have hard proof I am getting 1.8 MPG increase using this oil. No bill$hit. In 4,000 miles, I did 12 full-ups since the M1 change, and am getting a consistent 330 Miles to a tank (17.5 gallons), 19.1 MPG. Thats good for a XJ IMO. I fill it to the half gallon, and I drive it till I'm scared its gonna run dry!
 
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