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Official TOTM: AdFab Weight Loss Program

Has anybody considered looking at that really heavy lump of cast iron under the hood? Yes, the 4.0. What's it weigh? I've never pulled mine, but, based on what I've heard others say, it probably weighs near to a BBC.



I'd suggest looking at a Chevy 4.3 or LS1 just for the whole options involving drivetran possibilities.


Or, if you're dead set on the 4.0, there's a fancy aluminum head for it out there. Just might be the excuse to buy one, eh?
 
Head probably weighs like 50 - 70 pounds, haven't weighed it but have one handy.

4.0 is nice and torquey, good for the trail. Most of the weight is in the block though, not the head.

What would be fun woould be to compare the weight of a 4.0 verses, say, an all aluminum LS1 (is that the alum. 350?).
 
GSequoia said:
What would be fun woould be to compare the weight of a 4.0 verses, say, an all aluminum LS1 (is that the alum. 350?).



Well, it's a 346ci actually... But yeah, it's the all aluminum 5.7L v8. Can't remember the HP/TQ specs on one, but it blows the 4.0 out of the water to say the least. And with a few bucks in mods you can easily be making 500/500 out of one.


And regardless of what people think, you can actually build an engine that is not an inline configuration that makes a decent amount of torque off idle...
 
GSequoia said:
What would be fun woould be to compare the weight of a 4.0 verses, say, an all aluminum LS1 (is that the alum. 350?).

From Novak's website (estimated, accessory loaded weights):

4.0L: 515 lbs

Gen I&II SBC: 550lbs
Gen III SBC: 470lbs
LS1: 407lbs


From a Ford forum:

SBF 5.0L: approx 450lbs
 
nhrocker said:
And if you're pulling the rear bench you might as well pull the seat belts. It may not seem like much, but all the different pieces add up fast.

also for me - they seat belts make great tie points for putting ratchet straps in, so im willing to keep them around just for that fact...
 
Ok, adding to the topic: What amount of weight loss will actually lead to improved wheeling capabilities? I mean, if I get rid of my rear seat and carpet, it's not going to keep me from breaking my dana 30

On a full bodied rig, lets say I get moderately aggresive with this jeep diet and drop my 3900 pound rig to a 3600 pounder. Let's say I lose a few pounds myself even (hey, if it improves my wheeling) and I'm 350 pounds lighter than I was before. What benenfits can I expect from this amount of weight loss?

For me, this is the most important part of this topic. Before I start removing all of the comforts of my rig, I want to know what I can really expect to gain from weight loss.

Any thoughts?
 
Defying graviy is really where the weight savings make the most difference.

Light, well designed rigs climb like no other!
 
When I was running my 87 XJ I did a total weight loss program for a DD. I removed the carpet, headliner, interior plastic, A/C condenser, foam padding under hood, useless lines and charcoal canister, body molding, rear seat, exhaust, and the doors for summer. I replaced the rear bumper with an aluminum one that was stronger and lighter. I noticed a huge difference in the way it handled off trail and even on the street. It was admittedly loud and cold in the winter but it was worth it.
 
I´ve just bought a set of aluminium rims w/ the correct b/s, so I can loose my steelies and the steel wheel spacers.

I´ll also replace the steel winch rope w/ a synthetic one and the roller fairlead with a hawse fairlead.

A friend of mine is just building his first carbon-something-fibre hood for his MJ, that should be the next step.

I´ve got a heavy rig (bumpers, roofrack, winch) - so I´ll try to save some weight where it´s possible without sacrifing any protection or functionality.
 
I took the time to remove the A/C condensor this weekend.. yeah, that is worth about 1 lb! :wierd:

I didnt realize it would be that small, its the size of a good trans cooler...

but I am sure a saved some OZ's by not re-installing all those screws and bolts...and the broken ones will save some too!
 
Mambeu said:
...
I don't have heavy aftermarket bumpers; I have stockers with tow hooks.
...

I've had pretty good success doing this. The very first thing most folks do it seems, is add a whole lot of weight to the ends of the vehicle. Most of the aftermarket stuff is very heavy. The stockers do get damaged, but I've been able to keep 2 spares of both on hand, and all the end caps, in the right color with no problem.

I get them for free, and have an endless supply from the guys putting aftermarket bumpers on. :D

--ron
 
I just got a set of MetWrenches (actually, cheap Indian knockoffs) for my tool bag. I just dropped 4.5 lbs from my tool bag because I have a single set of box wrenches instead of two, and I don't have to cuss when I grab a 9/16 to take off a 15mm.

Now I'm down to 4846.5 lbs.
 
Scrappy said:
Yes, go to the dealership and buy the pully assymbly for non a/c units. :yelclap: Uses the same belt even.


the pic looks like you may need a different idler pulley as well.. I have to look under the hood to make out what the pic in the EPC is showing...


What about plastic headlights vs the glass?
 
Ludakris said:
the pic looks like you may need a different idler pulley as well.. I have to look under the hood to make out what the pic in the EPC is showing...


What about plastic headlights vs the glass?


I just did this swap on Goatmans rig... no other pulley change needed. I also swaped his PS pump, and changed it to a smaller pully (for hydro) and did have to change the belt. But with the stock pump... its all good.
 
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