reddragon72 said:I take it you ordered a lift kit? if so which 4.5? RE has two with and without full rear leaf packs. Or did you just order a rear leaf pack? you kinda left us hanging on what it is you ordered.
xj_toker said:
Rocketman said:Get some experienced help. Do you have a big enough air compressor and tank to handle a decent size 1/2 impact wrench? Do you have a torch or at least some MAPP gas?
I have a 93, you have a 93. I live in Chicago too. You'll bust AT LEAST the upper rear shock bolts no matter how much PB you use. The front leaf spring bolts will be a bear. If the upper shackle bolts are stuck you'll have to pull up carpet and cut holes in the bed to get at the welded nuts which they screw into. Starting to get the idea....
Next, unless you are putting in a SYE and new DS you will at MINIMUM need the extended YJ slip yoke. Otherwise your DS u-joints will knock during rotation. You'll need a TC drop kit of 1" at a minimum. OK..
Plan on installing about a 6* shim to reorient the rear diff to have decent angles so you don't have bad vibes.
I know this all sound like a downer but what you are doing is the equal to major surgery. PLAN.. BE PATIENT... GET HELP...
Where do you live, I'll be there if I can
Oh bite me ..... When my Dad got his jeep in CA it turned out it was was originally from Utah and every single bolt in the suspension had to be drilled out and both nuts for the front spring hangers had to be rosette welded back into the framerail and the fronts of the springs had to be cut and rubber burned away cause the inner sleeve was seized to the bolt!!! Oh yeah, and the rust wasn't visible either!Rocketman said:You Californicate guys don't even know what it's like to tear into a salt eaten, rusty, corroded underbody.
Rocketman said:You Californicate guys don't even know what it's like to tear into a salt eaten, rusty, corroded underbody. The Midwest Jeeps are a different animal because of the Winters. If I had it to do all over again and had the cash, I'd shop around in Texas or California for a rig to mod. I couldn't believe how clean and nice things are underneath.
Hey Toker, WHEN you planning on doing this? I'd like to show up. I'm a great supervisor and consultant. PM me with times and an address. I have some of the specialty tools you will need if you don't. Extra jack stands, Spring compressors, MityVac brake bleeder, 36mm sockets, A Dewalt reciprocating saw and metal blades. I have a spare pair of Rockyroad Outfitters Shock bar pin brackets in case you do pop off the bolts. (probably) I welded mine up instead of bolting them in. Never have to worry about the bolts again. Make sure you have the TORX socket drivers for the front UCA's.
What are your plans for your TC and DS? Drop, SYE. Let me tell you, your lift will be more like 6 or so inches and will only settle a 1/2 inch or so. Even with my 6" I didn't need a SYE. Proper shimming, the longer and cut out slip yoke was all I needed. ALSO, you'll need a new speedo gear for the 231/31" meat so your gauges will be right.
Some things you can do BEFORE you do the lift. Pull off and toss your rear sway bar. (for that matter pull off and clean up your front one too. You can run without it just fine. Just don't do corners at 50mph) Get a longer upper or lower bumpstops for the front or you will smunch your fenders. The ones RE provides aren't quite enough to keep from hitting untrimmed fenders. What size wheels you going to run? I've found with that setup 3.75" backspacing is great. IF you adjust bumpstops right, you'll have no rubbing or binding at full crank.
Loosen up the lower AC line and move it a couple inches away from the sidewall so you don't drill into it when you mount the upper storage pin for the adjustable sway bar links. Plan on removing your tail pipe (not essential) but it makes it easier. Have all you buds bring a box of bolts nuts washers etc... EVERYTHING will be rusty and you'll want to replace.
Oh well, my novel is done for today...
Good luck, hope to see and meet another MWC wheeler.
Rocketman said:Just bustin balls... you have to admit though... West Coast rigs are much better to work on generally.
I had to burn out all four bushings on my leafs and cut the bolts. Even had to weld a nut to the remainder of the front bolt and heat the hell out of it to get it to turn. Luckliy, didn't have to cut into the frame to get at the nuts. The best money ever spent tool-wise was for the reciprocating saw. Cuts through a hardened 14mm spring bolt pretty quick.
Toker, make sure you have more than a couple 21mm and 22mm sockets and wrenches, preferably 1/2" drive. 18's 17's also needed in quantity.
Worried yet???
xj_toker said:hey rocketman do you have a IM screen name? cause i have a feeling im going to learn alot from you and id love it if you were able to lend a hand on the build up. you seem to be a good resourse. ill buy the beer
Rocketman said:Caffiene Free Diet Coke... PIZZA is a no brainer though!!