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No Overdrive & Check Engine Light is on ?

yes i am. i also tried the tcm and its only a temp fix (mine lasted a grand total of 5 min). if you do get an ebay one, make sure you get the right one... there is coding on it that some of needs to be the same. it will look something like 274AD or 783AE. i beleive either the numbers or letters need to be the same... i will try to find the thread that decoded it

I'll check into it.
I'm pretty sure I can get a Rebuilt/Reflashed one from Kragen for about $130 with a 1 year warrenty
 
Wow, now a new problem popped up :bawl:
Cruising along and my Dash Gauges quit working, all of them, everything else kept working fine, then they come back, then they quit, then they come back and stay back.
My OD not locking up is only after it warms up to operating temp after about 20 minutes of driving.
 
Wow, now a new problem popped up :bawl:
Cruising along and my Dash Gauges quit working, all of them, everything else kept working fine, then they come back, then they quit, then they come back and stay back.
My OD not locking up is only after it warms up to operating temp after about 20 minutes of driving.

does your airbag light come on when the guages die?
 
The OEM part number is 7 to 8 digits (usually 8 on something that is vehicle specific, most of the 7 digits are nuts/bolts/common stuff) plus two letters at the end. The letters are the specific "revision" of the part, on electronics you always want the same or later - i.e. replacing an AA with an AD or say a CE or something like that is fine, but don't go the other way. You may also want to check for TSBs that involve related components in case something else changed with the updated hardware revision.
 
I am at my Wits End :(
So far I have replaced:
TPS
TCM
PCM
NSS
All Trans Solenoids, Fluid, Filter.
Adjusted the TVC
And still the Trans losses OD Lockup after it warms up.
I can drive about 20-30 miles and then the CEL comes on and I loose OD Lock up.
I thought the Solenoids cured because after replacing them i drove about 200 care free miles
and then it happened again and is back to its old self of going 20-30 miles before loosing OD Lock up.

HELP !!!
 
Could well be an internal trans issue then..

Do you have full coverage? Park it on the train tracks. :)

I Wish.
This is the absulute worst peice of Crap I have ever owned, literaly one problem after another.
I have owned this Rig for 5 months and have yet to be able to
take it on a drive, I have worked on it almost every single day.
 
Might try the throttle valve cable adjust -AND- do the battery disconnect at same time to reset 'puter. (mine settled down that way)

Take a hair dryer and warm up the ECU before a test run. if it 'dumps' sooner then--!!. Repeat test with the TCU warmed up. Same with throttle area.etc. -Could be a heat related problem.

Add a heavy gauge ground wire engine to body and one to the battery.

Also Check the battery volts at the battery posts when running ok and when kaput. Also check for volts from engine block to battery (-) negative -ok/kaput.

This Jeep has to be giving a clue someway!

Good Luck,
Orange
 
are you sure you have the correct pcm? if they are not compatible it will not fix it
 
A friend of mine had a similar problem, went through everything that you have already done and it ended up being the torque converter. Good Luck!
 
Look, quick and dirty:

Wire in a toggle switch and light so you can lock up the torque converter "on demand".

If you have the switch "ON" and the torque converter drops out you will know that the problem is: solenoid (yes, I know you replaced before), valve body, or the converter itself.

If the torque converter stays locked with the switch "ON", well, then you can drive it until you feel like trying to diagnose it further.
 
So my Saga continues :mad:
1997 4.0 AW-4
I had this issue awhile back, it corrected itself when the weather got cool.
My Temp gauge ran at 195 degrees and it shifted fine all winter.
Now that it is Summer again, I loose Overdrive.
My Temp gauge now runs at 210 or just a tad above
I have replaced all Solinoids, Fluid and Filter, the NSS, checked all connections.
I am about ready to use this Heep for target practice.
The only code I pull is 45, which all I can find is that is suppose to temp related, but everyone tells me there is no Trans temp sensor.
After the Trans cools overnight, the next morning it shifts fine and the CEL is off, until Temps get to 210 :mad:
 
Look, quick and dirty:
Wire in a toggle switch and light so you can lock up the torque converter "on demand".
If you have the switch "ON" and the torque converter drops out you will know that the problem is: solenoid (yes, I know you replaced before), valve body, or the converter itself.
If the torque converter stays locked with the switch "ON", well, then you can drive it until you feel like trying to diagnose it further.

Where do I tap into ?
 
So my Saga continues :mad:
1997 4.0 AW-4
I had this issue awhile back, it corrected itself when the weather got cool.
My Temp gauge ran at 195 degrees and it shifted fine all winter.
Now that it is Summer again, I loose Overdrive TC Lockup.
My Temp gauge now runs at 210 or just a tad above
I have replaced all Solinoids, Fluid and Filter, the NSS, checked all connections.
I am about ready to use this Heep for target practice.
The only code I pull is 45, which all I can find is that is suppose to temp related, but everyone tells me there is no Trans temp sensor.
After the Trans cools overnight, the next morning it shifts fine and the CEL is off, until Temps get to 210 :mad:
 
Ugh... I have the beginning symptoms of this issue.
1997 Cherokee Sport 4.0 AW-4
Also got a CEL, and it shows code 45.
I'm replacing the NSS tomorrow since I haven't had reverse lights for some time, but it now sounds like that might not solve the issue... not sure what to do if it doesn't, since I have to drive it 1000 miles later this year.
 
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